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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched here and the rest of the net and couldn't find my answer. My driver's side rear main door shade broke a couple months ago. It came out and wouldn't go back in. Everything I found for removal never mentioned the screw that tied the shade to the door panel on the end of the shade near the door hinge. I removed the two under the trim, got the one under the small shade as well as the one in the handle and popped all the plastic fasteners. The panel wouldn't come off on the front end and thats when I learned the hard way, by breaking the shade mount, that there was a screw from the panel into the shade on the end of the shade. I couldn't see it and have no idea how the heck to get at it. I need to do the vapor barrier on the other door and don't want to break that shade so I'm looking for some guidance, pictures, or a video that I missed on how to remove that panel and get that third screw out.

On another note, I found out what was wrong with the shade and was able to fix it, saving myself $190 for a new shade. I'll do a DIY on that separately after someone shows me how to remove the panel without breaking the shade.:biggrinbounce:
Greg
 

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hi gzig5 there is only 4 screws to pull the rear door panels off.
1 under the little round cover in the door handle,
then remove the vertical sunshade (small flat screw driver through the vertical cut at the top of the sunshade to lift up the metal tab (#5) before you pull it up and away from lower tab (#6) ),
remove screw from the lower metal tab (#6) behind the sunshade,
there are 2 screws behind the wood trim panel slow pry off panel.
now remove screw at the back portion of the sunshade and then the screw at the front of the sunshade (# 12/13).
now for the fun part just slowly pry up the door from the lower edge to release the pins (#2) from around the door then you need to some how release the handle clip (#5) at this point the door should be lifted up and away slowly paying close attention to the front edge by the tweeter grill there is a spring style clip there.
thats all there is to pulling the panel off p.s. make sure to remove the window switch and the splash light if there, rolling the window down also helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I believe I removed all the screws you mention.
This is the screw that I was talking about. It goes through the front end of the shade into a bracket on the front end of the door panel. I couldn't see it and could not figure out how to get to it from the front edge of the door. The only way I can see how this would be accessible would be to remove the trim around the front edge of the window frame. Because I couldn't see it and didn't know it existed, I broke the bracket that mounts the shade to the door as I pulled on the panel.



Here is the shade laying on the panel showing the bracket and screw.



Assembled. The area in the box is hidden behind the window frame trim.



I've not seen any instruction on how to get to this screw. My car is an 09/99 date so maybe they didn't do this on the later models. Anyone have any pearls of wisdom? If I have to pull off the window frame trim, what am I going to break next?
 

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the screws that you have circled in the 2nd and 3rd pic dont need to come out to pull off the door panel the sunshade stays with the panel as that screw doesnt connect to the door at all. the screw that goes through the hole in the 1st pic that is broken has an excess hole through the door panel after the wood trim is removed. but there is a spring style clip right above the sunshade that is most likely what you were stuck on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
the screws that you have circled in the 2nd and 3rd pic dont need to come out to pull off the door panel the sunshade stays with the panel as that screw doesnt connect to the door at all. the screw that goes through the hole in the 1st pic that is broken has an excess hole through the door panel after the wood trim is removed. but there is a spring style clip right above the sunshade that is most likely what you were stuck on.
The shade was screwed both to the door and to the panel. To the panel with three screws and to the door with two. The shade has mounting brackets on both ends and each bracket has a hole that secures to the door and one that goes into the panel with the additional screw on the end that I've pointed out. When the shade is secured to both parts you must release it completely from one of them in order to remove the panel and with that extra screw on the end, it's not easy.

Edit......You are correct. I was removing the wrong screws. I didn't realize those access holes were there. All better now.
 

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I'm glad that you guys brought this issue up. I was wondering too what all was involved with having this feature. The place that tints my windows will be servicing my M5 soon. They are a great professional shop that removes all the side windows & bakes on the window tint film. I'm assuming that since I have the sun shade option on my rear windows, this will create a tad bit more difficulty for them...

To remove the rear side windows, the two shades have to be removed right??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Was there a DIY for fixing the shade?

On another note, I found out what was wrong with the shade and was able to fix it, saving myself $190 for a new shade. I'll do a DIY on that separately after someone shows me how to remove the panel without breaking the shade.:biggrinbounce:
Greg
Did you ever get around to posting the fix? I removed my shades when I was re-sealing the vapor barriers because they won't retract, which is a major annoyance. I'd consider putting them back in if I can fix them easily.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did you ever get around to posting the fix? I removed my shades when I was re-sealing the vapor barriers because they won't retract, which is a major annoyance. I'd consider putting them back in if I can fix them easily.

Thanks.

Actually, I did fix the main window shade but forgot to come back here and update the thread. The design is relatively simple, a fixed shaft around which a coil spring is pre-tensioned to pull the shade down. The interface between the spring and the shaft is a plastic part that cracked and lost its grip on the shaft so the spring could not be tensioned any longer. I made a new plastic part on the lathe and put it back together. Took a little fiddling to get the tension right, but works fine now. I don't have pics on this computer but will try to update the thread this weekend. I can make this plastic part for others for a small fee, or if you are handy you might be able to modify a plastic bolt of the right size to work. I might consider reworking your shade if the problem is fixable. Let me get the pics up and then we can go there.

I'm also reworking a quarter window shade, but it has a different problem. I'll include that when it gets to the top of my "round to-it" list.

Greg
 

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Thanks, Greg. Personally, I'm disappointed that some of these things haven't held up so well given how heavy this car is. Seems like everything should have been milled from billet steel instead of these plastic bits that fail over time.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
OK, this is not going to be a complete DIY because I don't have a shade in front of me. It is pretty straight forward to take apart and put back together. Take pics as you go. Hardest part is to figure out how much pre-tension to wind in when putting back together. Don't get it right, just try again. To take apart you have to carefully pry the retaining washers off. I was able to reuse them, but they are available at supply stores.

Here are the guts of the winding mechanism. It goes inside the shade roll and is supported on each end by a couple of green peices, one of which had a thread and nut to control the unwind distance.


The red part is pressed onto a knurl on the shaft and acts as the anchor. Mine split and wouldn't grab the shaft anymore.


The coil spring is wound onto a thread on the red part. I made a new one in the lathe. Here test fitting the spring.




And here is the new part pressed onto the shaft before re-assembly.



I made a print and could make some of these up for $15 each shipped in US. Or you can measure your broken one and make one out of an appropriately sized plastic screw if you can dill down the middle. I don't think a metal screw would work well pressing onto the shaft.

Greg
 
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Wow! That's really helpful for understanding how the rollers work. A picture is really worth a thousand words ...

I still think that there should have been a more durable approach to constructing our vehicles. It's unfortunate that these cars have so many plastic pieces such as for the roller shades, water pump impellers, etc. that end up failing.

Since my windows are tinted, I'm not really missing the shades right now, but if I change my mind, I'll know how to go about it! Thanks again.
 

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I found this thread (and TIS) very useful when replacing the rear right vertical sunshade. I took some pics that may make the instructions above easier to understand. The info below is not stand-alone. It should be used with TIS and the other posts in this thread.

Wood (or silver) trim piece removed. It just pops off. It exposes two Phillips screws that DON'T need to be removed to remove the door liner. They hold the sunshade to the liner. The two holes give access to two Phillips screws that DO need to be removed.

You can see (barely) where the small circular cover in the door handle has been popped off and the Torx screw is exposed. This has to be removed.


DSC01292x.jpg


This one is trying to show the steel clip seen by looking down into the window opening at the front. The clip has to be pushed down so that the mating clip on the liner can be pulled away from the door.

DSC01296x.jpg

This one shows the top of the vertical pillar in the window that holds the rear, horizontally sliding shade. The small, chewed-up slot at the top is where you slide in an awl (I found a small screwdriver too large) to pry up the yellow metal clip on the door pillar to release the shade holder. Most of that damage to the slot was done by a previous owner (although I contributed some more). :)


DSC01300x.jpg


Once the shade holder is off you can access another Phillips screw that is hidden behind the bottom of the shade holder that has to be removed.


DSC01303x.jpg

I used a wide, thin, steel spatula to slide between the liner and the door to pry around the liner to pull it off the door. It came off nicely with no damage to the white plastic clips. The liner then has to be pushed up quite firmly to get it to come off some wide clips just under the smaller "quarter-light" part of the window.

The 4 grey-looking wires connect to the power window switch. I had to remove a piece of sticky foam that was jammed in the hole (as a vapour barrier I guess) before I could see the connector. It was easiest to push the switch out of the liner (it popped out quite easily) to get access to the connector.

DSC01312x.jpg


The next two pics show a black plastic clip holder installed in the grey sheet metal boomerang-shaped liner reinforcement and the yellow metal spring clip that goes inside that holder on liner reinstallation. Make sure the black holder is firmly in the boomerang as it can fall out. I discovered mine had during the previous installation when I got the liner off.


DSC01313x.jpg

DSC01316x.jpg
 

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This is what I've been looking for. I am going tackle my leaking vapor barriers and was in search of an exact explanation as to the removal of my door panels. I feel a whole lot better now. Thanks.
 
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