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Discussion Starter #1
What racing (autocross) tires have you guys had luck with? I'm looking at the Nitto NT555RII 100/A/A & The Toyo® Proxes RA-1.

Any suggestions or preferences from any of you auto-x people?

BTW, the tires will be going on 17 x 8(or9)" wheels.

robert
 

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I run the RA1 for track schools. Absolutely love them to death. They are extremely grippy and have lots of life and are street legal. Highly recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the confirmation Brian. the sure sound like they would be good (<40 Tire Ttread Rating!). If you don't mind, what kinda prices are you seeing on them? Are you running 18" or 17" rims?

Robert

Redshift said:
I run the RA1 for track schools. Absolutely love them to death. They are extremely grippy and have lots of life and are street legal. Highly recommended.
 

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Robert, I use them only for track. The 40 rating indicates super grip. They're not really good for daily driving (although you could!). I think I paid around $275ea for them or so, but my memory is fuzzy on that. I run 275/35/18 all around on OEM 18x9.5 rims.
 

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While not for Auto-X, I run 17" wheels and track rubber for road courses.

The wheels I used pre-dated the M5; I had a matching set of 17x8.5 Borbet Type-E's with 245-40/17 Yoko AO32Rs for my E39 540i/6. When I got the Beast, I stepped up to a 17x9.5 rear (with 275-35/17). Back then, the Borbets were about the only game in town for cheap(er) track wheels.

I've seen quite a few members with SSR Comp track wheels, and I imagine they're quite a bit lighter than my current track wheels.

Bottom line: the right 17's will work for tracking, for me on both stock brakes and with the StopTech BBK.

Good luck!
-Dave
 

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The 275 17" Nitto NT555RIIE are too hard for competitive autocross, as are Toyo Proxies. Nittos make a nice all around amateur track tire because they grip better than street tires and they last a real long time. The only reason they haven't captured the DE crowd is because they come in only one size. They are my favorite tire for DE and "local" or "regional" non-points autocross events. You can easily make up for the 1/2 to 1 second deficits with good driving, if you're on a local level. The problem is these tires do not hold a candle to the fastest Hoosier and Kumho stickie compounds under "close competition" race conditions. If you're racing somebody with similar skill, hardware & optimal sticky tires, you're gonna lose. I prefer the 4x-5x treadlife "feature" about 99% of the time. I might also mention that the Nitto has no rim protector to rub the strut, if you're running big 9" or 9.5" wheels in the front. The E39 is heavy and quite abusive to front tires on most courses. The durable Nittos with their deeper, firmer tread shine with respect to longevity.

I won about 100 Solo II and Pro Solo events in the past 25 years, piloting various vehicles...some competitive and some silly. The most memorable event was 1st place in FS stock class. I ran a silly, ragged Lincoln Mark VII with Goodyear GS-C tires against 13 ponycars and one Impala SS. Several of the cars had 32V motors, LS1 power & 6spd transmissions...against my 7" wheels, air suspension, stock 225 HP HO & slippy automatic. That luxoboat was sort of notorious in regions spanning between upper New York and Mid Ohio.
 

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Redshift said:
I run the RA1 for track schools. Absolutely love them to death. They are extremely grippy and have lots of life and are street legal. Highly recommended.
Do you think using the RA1 on stock rims for summer driving/6 track days is asking too much of them? Just don't want to buy 4 new wheels! I would drive about 5k in the summer and then I put on the Alpins from October to April.
 

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Some Comments....

RA-1's are good tires for Track Days and practice... I have used them for years as my prefered HPDE tire and also as street tires on my M3. With proper rotation you can get 5-6K out of set. I will get 6-8 weekends at the track off a well rotated set... (with proper front neg camber, stock M5 doesn't qualify in this respect). I have driven on them from Raleigh to Mosport and to Mt tremblant and back + more track events...

Hoosiers AS series are the reference for autoX anything else is not. Just look at the SCCA results or ask your local pro auto crosser. Note the hoosier AS is not for track. The hoosier RS is a great tire and faster than the toyo but good for 1 weekend and maybe a little more... These are the tires to have if you want to win in most SCCA Classes...

There are even faster tires out there beyond these.. We used to get lots of Dunlop SLICKS from Sasco and G&W's junk pile at VIR and they are way stickier... Flat spotted dunlop slicks were 3-4 seconds a lap quicker than hoosiers on a Porsche 996 during our testing at VIR....

I know even redshift is using the Dunlop Super Sport R for track tires now as are others we know. I currently have a set of these of my E36 M3 as "Daily Driver" tires... :) For the prices they were offered at they can't be beat... I suspect this introductory pricing will evaporate soon making them the same price as hoosier, toyos, and kuhmo street legal R tires...

Sean Smith
Raleigh,
 

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BTW: The thing that sucks most about Toyos is you can't get them from tire rack... :)

Question on the Nittos.. Whats the treadwear rating on them? do they make em in 17's for my m3 and where do you buy them...
 

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sean_w_smith said:
BTW: The thing that sucks most about Toyos is you can't get them from tire rack... :)

Question on the Nittos.. Whats the treadwear rating on them? do they make em in 17's for my m3 and where do you buy them...
Sounds like they should be good to go for my summer action then? How are the RA1's in the rain at different tread depths? Smart thing would be to get dedicated wheel/tire set but if the Toyos can last the summer then I might do that until next year.
 

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M5ROKIT said:
Sounds like they should be good to go for my summer action then? How are the RA1's in the rain at different tread depths? Smart thing would be to get dedicated wheel/tire set but if the Toyos can last the summer then I might do that until next year.

Great at full tread... They get worse with wear.... down right dangerous once they get worn down. This is true of any tire. lack of tread depth = lack of grip in the rain...

check out the dunlops... 90% as good for 1/2 the price....

Sean
 

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sean_w_smith said:
Great at full tread... They get worse with wear.... down right dangerous once they get worn down. This is true of any tire. lack of tread depth = lack of grip in the rain...

check out the dunlops... 90% as good for 1/2 the price....

Sean
Which Dunlops are you refering to?
 

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I've recently run the inexpensive Dunlop comp tires and have been fairly pleased. I believe the sidewall may be a bit too soft, but at $135 each, they are a deal. You can find them at Tirerack. I did cord the left front at Barber Motorsports Park this weekend, but this was after a full weekend at Road Atlanta and then on my 7th run of the day at Barber, which is a shorter, more technical track.
Hope this helps.
TripleD
 

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Dunlop Super Sport R is the name... as the above poster said they are available at tire rack...
 

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Greco said:
The ultimate in road race tires... Falken Azenis RT615.

Anita started a thread about this not so long ago.. here's the link http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50961&highlight=anita
I don't remember that result, I thought one or two people liked them, but most seemed to lean towards the Kumhos. My personal favorite for DE's(factoring in price) are the Toyo RA1's. I have not run the Dunlops or the Mich Cup Sports.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Greco said:
The ultimate in road race tires... Falken Azenis RT615.

Anita started a thread about this not so long ago.. here's the link http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50961&highlight=anita

not even close... They are the preffered tire for Street tire class auto crossers but they are several seconds a lap slower than RA-1 which are several seconds slower than a hoosier RS which are many seconds a lap slower than a real racing slick...

Ate they a good high performance street tiire.. Yes....

The ultimate road racing tire... No way, not even close...

How many SCCA Road Race Championships were won last year on Falkens? Zero
 

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can't comment on their 'autocrossability' but i've used the dunlop sport Race r compounds for 2 weekends at the track. I've been quite pleased, very progressive, good grip, looks like they'll last a couple more weekends without doing anything. If i swap sides, i might get a little more out of them.
for about $137/tire (iirc) can't complain!
Mike
 

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mottati said:
can't comment on their 'autocrossability' but i've used the dunlop sport Race r compounds for 2 weekends at the track. I've been quite pleased, very progressive, good grip, looks like they'll last a couple more weekends without doing anything. If i swap sides, i might get a little more out of them.
for about $137/tire (iirc) can't complain!
Mike
Glad to hear you like dunlops and the price is still right...

Taking the tires of and flipping them on the rim and then mounting on the opposite side will take care of directional issues and in my experience will greatly improve tire life if done early enough...(if cord is showing don't bother!) Generally the outside edge gets worn badly on cars lacking significant negative camber like my m5. remounting and rotating really helps here as it gives to a new edge to punish... Consider a set of tires is $800+ and remounting is $80 or less is a good thing...

I would not expect typical m5 owners to get long life and as consistent of wear as you can get with 4 of the same size wheels... With this setup I rotate tires every day at the track and then eventually flip them on the rim and repeat the process again. End result is 6-8 weekends + street miles out of RA1's.... Redshift has been doing this on his M5 running SSR comps and the 265/35/18 all the way around...

Another Tire Tip: Look for a shop with a road force balancer... Our local team at hub cap heaven have been able to isolate bad tires from tire rack, bent rims and other subtle aspects in a matter of seconds that you just can't detect with traditional balancing... Mark will even remove mounted tires and rotate it help work with the imbalance of the rim trying to get us the lowest road force #'s on street and race cars... He marks all the rims with grease pencil as to the roadforce #'s etc...

Sean
 
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