BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It is time to replace the driveshaft in the M5 as the clicking and vibration has worsened.

I have read and re-read the threads about this job and am curious what others experience is.


Is this job reasonable to do with ramps/jack stands in my garage? Especially if I am doing it by myself.

I would appreciate the opinions from those who have tackled this job.


also, is the turner motorsports driveshaft worth the extra money, vs other driveshaft shops that members have used?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Plan on replacing center support bearing, butyl tape and maybe even guibo. Might as well do it all at once rather than pulling everything apart twice.

Is your exhaust stock? If yes I think it comes off as one piece and is hella heavy! Probably is doable with just jack stands but will be difficult. I have read of some folks cutting the exhaust and using band clamps when putting it all back together.

I will lend you a hand, but September and first couple weeks of October are out with Soccer and Fall Baseball going on. Our weekends are spent in far away lands watching the kiddos play sports. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Plan on replacing center support bearing, butyl tape and maybe even guibo. Might as well do it all at once rather than pulling everything apart twice.

Is your exhaust stock? If yes I think it comes off as one piece and is hella heavy! Probably is doable with just jack stands but will be difficult. I have read of some folks cutting the exhaust and using band clamps when putting it all back together.

I will lend you a hand, but September and first couple weeks of October are out with Soccer and Fall Baseball going on. Our weekends are spent in far away lands watching the kiddos play sports. :)
Yeah, most driveshafts including the turner one come with new CSB, etc. I will be doing the Guibo, tape, and trans mounts while i'm in there.

My exhaust is stock w/ muffler delete so at least its about 50lbs lighter... haha

I am kind of worried about being able to torque the driveshaft to the right spec while laying on my back with limited room. If i just had access to a lift, it would be much easier!

I'll shoot you a message with what i decide.

Would still like to hear from those that have tackled this in their garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,014 Posts
The job is completely doable on jack stands although it is not a lot of fun. The hardest part is removing the factory exhaust. To torque down the guibo and other bolts get all of the bolts in place, put the car in gear and put on the parking brake
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,433 Posts
Good luck trying to get a torque wrench on those CV nuts. I've used a lift and we have to just do it by feel. Don't forget to disconnect the O2 sensors before loosening the exhaust from the headers, ask me why :( Fortunately mine were fine, but it was quite precarious for a bit. I haven't done this on jack stands, but I might need to soon. I'm about to install a new rear section on mine due to my u-joint being bad. I already have a new guibo and CSB.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Yes. I've done it myself a few times in the garage and on jack stands. I have the stock exhaust too. First time I removed the exhaust as one piece, and the second time I cut the exhaust so I didn't have to remove the mufflers. Either way, you can lower and move the entire exhaust with a floor jack. Just put a piece of wood between the floor jack and the exhaust when dealing with it.

Also, any new or remanufactured drive shaft should come with everything you need to assemble and most probably already packed in grease for the velocity joint. Plug and play so-to-speak.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Concur with previous. Doable on Jack Stands. Extra set of hands helpful for exhaust. Bolts by headers can be awful. I used portland driveshaft for remanned which came with support bearing and rear cv. Guibo is a must, bear down and torque em and all will be good. Fluids change and sway bar brackets can also be done since you've got it up.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
All good advice already here. If you're like me and don't have friends, I'd recommending getting one of these cheap trans jacks at HF: 450 lb. Low Lift Transmission Jack

You can use it to support and lower the exhaust, and then you can just roll the exhaust out from under the car. I even use it to support the opposite end of the driveshaft when removing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the tips / info.

I think I am going to tackle this myself. I'll probably grab one of those transmission jacks as I could see how that would help with lowering the exhaust. I'll try and use this thread as a place to ask questions if i get hung up anywhere.... really appreciate those that have taken the time to share their experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,632 Posts
You do not have to remove the exhaust. If you unbolt the muffler hangers and the center support the back of the exhaust will drop far enough to extract the prop' shaft from the the rear of vehicle. remember to order new nuts and bolts for the flex disk and new nuts and gasket for the CV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Alright, here is my parts list at the moment. Let me know if you think I am missing anything.

Driveshaft with new CSB and CV Joint from Turner Motorsport

26112228781 - Flex Disc

26111227829 - Hex Bolt x 6

26111227830 - Collar Nut x 6

26127511140 - Terostat Tape

26111229504 - Diff Flange Gasket

26111227022 - Knurled Bolt x 6

26111227843 - Ribbed Hex Nut x 6

22316771221 - Transmission Mounts x 2

22316760944 - Hex Nut x 2

07129904862 - Hex Nut x 2

18301728734 - Exhaust Gasket x 2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Goodluck! This is a tough job to be doing on the ground! Be safe, try to get some help or atleast someone to watch over you and call for help if needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
If you do end up removing the exhaust, do yourself a favor and heat the header flange studs/bolts with a torch prior to wrenching on them. PBlaster is your friend, as well. Careful not to burn down your M mixing the two....doh
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top