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Hello all,

With the weather so nice, I decided to do something about an SES that's been bugging me for months. I was getting three codes consistently: E-box fan, Function check TEV, and Engine temp plausibility. After some searching, I read that one of us thought they had fixed the fan problem by cleaning the electrical contacts until they got the SES light again. I decided not to take the chance and bought a new fan from the local dealership.

Regarding the Function check TEV and Engine Temperature Plausibility error, this post outlines a Service Information bulletin that addresses those two codes. Problem is, my car is a MY2002 with build date of 12/01. My Base Control and Programmed Control Unit numbers are also higher than the 7 831 762 and 7 831 872 numbers mentioned in SI
B 12 24 99, so it doesn't really pertain to my car. My search comes up with no real clues as to what needs to be fixed.

I went and bought a new E-box fan from the dealership and changed it out today. Thanks to this thread, I was able to do this fairly quickly. Here are the original codes I that would light up my SES ... it would be on for weeks and magically disappear only to return again after a few days:

143 E-box-fan

Error frequency : ___ (some high number)
Logistic counter: 40

Engine speed 720.00 rpm
relative filling 18.40 %
Cooling water temp. 61.00 degrees C
Supplier voltage HR 11.40 V
aufgetreten vor (rel. B2) 30.00 km

0100 - Broken wire / Value missing
Error not present
Sporadic error

Errorcode: blahblah (is this important?)

--------------------------------------------------------

232 Function check TEV

Error frequency : ___ (some high number)
Logistic counter: 40

Total air mass 20.00 kg/h
Environmental temperature CAN 15.00 degrees C
Tank air evacuation adaption 1
Tank air evacuation adaption 2
aufgetreten vor (rel. B2)

0100 - Broken wire / Value missing
OBD exhaust relevant error
Error present
Static error

-----------------------------------------------------------------

105 Plausibility Engine Temperature
blahblah

1000 - Condition / value implausible / over temperature

Well, I put her back together, cleared the errors with INPA, and took my wife out on a hot date. Upon reaching the driveway on our return home, the SES light came back on again. What's disappointing is the E-box-fan code is back. This really sucks because I just spent $120 on a stupid fan. I'm going to try cleaning the fan plug's contacts and inspecting the wire for damage. About the Function Check TEV, does anyone have any hints? I've been watching my engine temp gauge and it's been normal. I'd also like to add that I was getting this error in 100 degree F heat and even now that it's 60 degrees F.

One more thing, I have to thank you guys for another previous thread ... I touched my crank case vent hoses and they felt gross. The passenger side hose even has a few small holes in it. It's good to know I'm not alone with these problems :cheers: Any possibility it's related to the Function Check TEV code?
 

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The 105 coolant temp plausibility code (aka 69 code in hex on a Peake reader) is usually the thermostat or the temp sensor mounted in top of the t/s housing. I had this code and changed the t/s first, which is a tricky little job (see link) but I still got the code. Changing the sensor fixed it. This is a much easier job that the t/s so I suggest trying that first. Siphoning the coolant out of the expansion tank gets the level low enough to replace the sensor without spilling coolant.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...id-thermostat-replacement-today-lot-pics.html
 

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232 is the evap valve under the plenum. Very common for them to fail. The odd time the valve is not at fault sometimes the Charcoal canister is plugged, usually when the owner has to top up when filling up. So if you don't squeeze every drop of fuel you can when filling up it is likely the valve. You want to have the valve on hand when you go in to check it because it is under the plenum. If your valve functions, send the new back unopened.

The other 2 codes together are interesting. Don't use the gauge for diagnostics use OBC test 7 Ktemp. I would also be interested in seeing your Atmp which is the same test number you push the left button twice more. Watch those and post back what you see. I am sure you know what tests I speak of but a newbie searching may not so read this both pages
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...ou-never-knew-you-could-have-secret-menu.html
Ya I know newbies never search, I can dream.

Have you seen your ebox fan spinning? have you checked for power at the fan and have you checked the fuse?
 

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bump.
:
I am having the EXACT SAME TWO CODES the OP is having:

ebox fan code 143
and
engine temp implausible code 105

I pulled my ebox fan and verified that it is indeed working with no odd sounds or anything. Is there a ECU temp sensor that needs to be changed? Or is the same sensor that is throwing the 105 code? (The one on top of the thermostat housing)
 

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Very odd,
I just had the same codes (Ebox Fan, Engine Temp Plausibility), I replaced the ebox fan but to my car to All German Auto for the TStat, when they scanned it 232 came up. Probably unrelated but the only thing I did recently and before these codes showed was put in the Evolve update. The evap purge valve and Tstat had been replaced around 30K ago.

Cheers,
Jason
 

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The two codes are totally unconnected (although sailor24 would probably disagree). The engine temp plausibility is a t/s or temp sensor problem, and a very common problem with these cars. The e-box fan problem is also quite common, but the cause is less clear. There are only two wires to the fan and WDS does not show it is PWM controlled , so that indicates it has only one speed (although WDS also gets the wiring colours wrong hmmm) but the link below suggests it is more complicated than that. So simply putting 12V across the motor and checking it runs may not be an effective test.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/138513-e-box-fan-temperature-switch-3.html

Does anyone know what the inductor coils and capacitor are doing on this little circuit board? They are not typical for a simple on-off DC motor.

IMG_1150.JPG

IMG_1151.JPG

E-box fan.JPG
 

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Ok well I went popped on a new (used) ECU blower and took her for a 50 mile drive. The only code that popped back up was the 105 engine temp code. Weird since my Ktemps will reach around the 79*C mark.

Nonetheless I order a new thermostat, sensor, and metal o-ring for her.

So hopefully the ECU blower issue is fixed. I'll keep this thread updated when the tstat arrives
 

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The DME looks at the engine heat-up rate as well as the actual temp to determine if the t/s is bad. In fact the heat-up rate is probably a better indicator of a bad t/s as the KTEMP will eventually get to >79 on a hot day.
 
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