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Discussion Starter #1
Grabbed one for $360 + 200 dollar core, 3 year warranty. That's about a third of what most places want for a rebuilt one.

BBB / VISION-OE 3060148
 

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Curious what warrants a steering rack replacement? Seems weird to me unless you were in a car accident.

Isn't there some type of replaceable bushing that could just be changed to tighten up steering feel?
 

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Now you've got me curious.
If I stab the brakes, sometimes it feels like a combination of small alignment issue and a worn bushing somewhere - the steering wheel jerks (slightly) to one side. It's not a big deal, but I was thinking I'll get around to getting an alignment and checking all the contact points.
Possibility of an internal issue instead?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Curious what warrants a steering rack replacement? Seems weird to me unless you were in a car accident.

Isn't there some type of replaceable bushing that could just be changed to tighten up steering feel?
I have a small leak from the top shaft, actually identical to this, but more importantly a ton of axial play on the rack shaft itself - if you yank on the front wheels in the yaw direction, you can see the rack shaft move forward and back in the housing (and makes sort of a clicking noise).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7h6YxTPDibo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEjsBk3bOnY

I can also feel it while driving, large slow bumps have a pronounced metal-on-metal feel coming through the steering wheel and I've had persistent high speed vibration that comes in and out, even though my car's got brand new control arms, inner/outter tie rods, sway bar links, front wheel bearings, steering shaft &shocks with less than 50K miles on them and the alignment and wheel balance are spot on. I'm guessing that at speed the extra play induces oscillations in the toe-in as the rack shaft bounces back and forth.

Tightening the preload screw did not fix this by the way.

Now sure how common this is on E60 cars, but it seems I'm not the only one that's run into this issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opSP8z5Nuow
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34Mbdx1_TtE
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now you've got me curious.
If I stab the brakes, sometimes it feels like a combination of small alignment issue and a worn bushing somewhere - the steering wheel jerks (slightly) to one side. It's not a big deal, but I was thinking I'll get around to getting an alignment and checking all the contact points.
Possibility of an internal issue instead?
If it feels like the front wheels move back when you just tap the brakes hard and let go, it's the tension strut bushings. The rack thing comes through the steering wheel like a metal clunk, rather than gummy suspension response.
 

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If it feels like the front wheels move back when you just tap the brakes hard and let go, it's the tension strut bushings. The rack thing comes through the steering wheel like a metal clunk, rather than gummy suspension response.
Thanks for that - I'll check it out.
And RA still says 1 available. I can put it in my cart as of right now.
 

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How is all yours turn out? I also looking for one but out of stock. My car is 2007. When I search Realoem the part number 32102283767 is from 3/2005 to …….2010. Curious why BBB website different part number for different year.

2006 – 3060148
2007 – 3060147
2008 – 3060146
2009 – 3060146
2010 – 3060146

Can I grab anyone other than 2007 to fit in my car? Any idea? Called to their technical & support and they have no idea why different part number in their website.

Most of their rack do not have the black plastic cover seal connecting to steering column. Do I need to be removed from my current plastic cover and placed onto the replacement rack, as most remanufactured steering racks do not come with this piece?

I mean this plastic cover…


[[][/[]

Thanks!


I don't know why my attachments cannot post.


 

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Discussion Starter #10
How is all yours turn out? I also looking for one but out of stock. My car is 2007. When I search Realoem the part number 32102283767 is from 3/2005 to …….2010. Curious why BBB website different part number for different year.

2006 – 3060148
2007 – 3060147
2008 – 3060146
2009 – 3060146
2010 – 3060146

Can I grab anyone other than 2007 to fit in my car? Any idea? Called to their technical & support and they have no idea why different part number in their website.

Most of their rack do not have the black plastic cover seal connecting to steering column. Do I need to be removed from my current plastic cover and placed onto the replacement rack, as most remanufactured steering racks do not come with this piece?

I mean this plastic cover…


[[][/[]

Thanks!


I don't know why my attachments cannot post.


Haven't had it installed yet - I noticed the same thing for the years, I think they do that to keep track what year car the core came off of. The actual part is all the same from BMW.

Mine didn't come with that little plastic cap either, I guess you just swap it over?
 

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Haven't had it installed yet - I noticed the same thing for the years, I think they do that to keep track what year car the core came off of. The actual part is all the same from BMW.

Mine didn't come with that little plastic cap either, I guess you just swap it over?


Thanks. I ordered Bosch yesterday and just delivered few hours ago. I still have no time to open it but the picture I saw at their website exactly same with the plastic cap sealed on top.
 

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Actually ZF-Bosch is direct oem replacement. No modification needed. All the stretch bolts and nuts must be replaced.

  • 32136769390 (4 qty) and 07119905032 (4 qty) = 50 Nm + 90 deg turn
  • 31106772199 (5 qty) and 31106779393 (3 qty) = 56 Nm + 90 deg turn
  • 33326760668 (2 qty) and 33176760343 (2 qty) = 100 Nm + 90 deg turn (-/+ 15 deg.)
  • 33326760668 (2 qty) And 31106769441 (2 qty) = 100 Nm + 90 deg. turn
 

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I'm pretty sure the torx head bolts on the rack aren't torque to yield.
I doubt mine will ever see a track so I didn’t worry about changing out the bolts for new, just torqued them down as normal. I do change the crush washers on everything and also there was a special banjo bolt on one of the hoses that had some sort of valve or screen filter in it that I changed as well.

Hardest part for me was getting all of the air out...took like 10 starts and wheel turning cycles. Had to wait like 10 mins between each so the bubbles would come to the top of the reservoir each time. The PS pump was really unhappy for the first couple for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I doubt mine will ever see a track so I didn’t worry about changing out the bolts for new, just torqued them down as normal. I do change the crush washers on everything and also there was a special banjo bolt on one of the hoses that had some sort of valve or screen filter in it that I changed as well.

Hardest part for me was getting all of the air out...took like 10 starts and wheel turning cycles. Had to wait like 10 mins between each so the bubbles would come to the top of the reservoir each time. The PS pump was really unhappy for the first couple for sure.
Yupp, I bought all new banjos including the valve one (TIS has a special mention of that for some reason). The subframe bolts are almost certainly torque to yield; the reinforcement plate bolts call for replacement as well, but I'm a bit skeptical there due to the low torque spec (50somethign + 90).
 

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How has the BBB steering rack been behaving? I need to replace my rack too and I'm considering ordering this one as well.
 
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maddios
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