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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted a few weeks ago that I was getting a groaning noise when turning the steering wheel. This was after a p/s fluid flush by a local shop, never had a problem before. I sucked the fluid out of the reservoir 3 times and replaced with mobil 1 synthetic ATF. It seemed to be getting better, was a little low one morning and I filled it to the top of the lower mark. Since then, it has settled down to groaning about a minute or so after starting cold and then goes away maybe 5 minutes after that. Could this still be air in the lines? I did order a new reservoir, but haven't got it yet.
 

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I've had this before. I likened it to the groaning sound the floor boards on a wooden ship would make on a calm ocean. Anyway, I had the dealer replace the p/s pump - noise went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had this before. I likened it to the groaning sound the floor boards on a wooden ship would make on a calm ocean. Anyway, I had the dealer replace the p/s pump - noise went away.
P/S pumps for our cars are pretty expensive. As I mentioned, I never had this noise until the p/s fluid was flushed. Hopefully the pump was not damaged by whatever fluid was installed. The shop mentioned they put "conditioner" in with the fluid. I never did find out what type of ATF they used.
 

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still sounds like air and/or minor leak

If you're seeing bubbles in the fluid and having to add some periodically, could be air still trapped and/or pin hole leak.

After I flushed mine out & changed the resevior I found the hose from the resevoir to the pump was leaking right at the pump. extremely small pin hole that requires swapping out the line. No big deal, but I didn't notice it until I took the belly pan off.

For what its worth I had the pump replaced under warranty back in 2005. It was making a loud humming noise when turning the wheel like the pump was straining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Appreciate the replies so far. I picked up the new reservoir today and will stick it on either today or tomorrow. I haven't checked to see what kind of clamps hold the lines, hopefully worm-type. I have noticed fluid on the belly-pan, so will investigate further.

BTW, I did search for this. It's great having all of the archive posts, but with so many, sometimes it's hard to narrow in on exactly what one is looking for. I have to say I would most likely not attempt some of these DIY's if I didn't have the forum archives to help describe the jobs. That has been great and I have saved some serious $$ doing some of these things on my own. Thanks!!
 

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Slightly of topic (different car). My daughter's Nissan was making some noise when turning the wheel so I decided to change and flush. I drained the old fluid, put in fresh power steering fluid and added a "conditioner" as recommended by the parts counter guy. Bad mistake, the rack started leaking and it took a lot of power to turn the wheel. I took the car for an estimate and was quoted nine hundred dollars for a new rack.
I returned home and did some research and learned the system requires automatic trans fluid as does our cars. I jacked up the front, syphoned the resevoir repeatedly and added new fluid after turning the wheels lock to lock several times. After about twenty minutes doing this the system righted itself and has been fault free for more that two years.

When I got my beast the power steering fluid looked like muddy water with quite a bit of hesitation in the assist. It had been somewhat neglected in it's early life. I repeated the procedure and it has been fault free for over a year.
 

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Leaking P/S hoses

Appreciate the replies so far. I picked up the new reservoir today and will stick it on either today or tomorrow.
I haven't checked to see what kind of clamps hold the lines, hopefully worm-type. I have noticed fluid on
the belly-pan, so will investigate further.
Regarding your findings of fluid on the belly pan, two of the four hoses are made with two sections (flexible rubber
and metal) and commonly develop leakage at the swagging where the two sections meet, then it seeps down the
inside of the hoses' mesh protective covering. When I did the reservoir replacement, I replaced both of the hoses
that connect to the reservoir. The other line (between the cooling coil and gearbox), is far more expensive.
Fortunately mine was not leaking from the swagged connection. If you replace one of the hoses going to the
cooling pipe, be sure to order both of the o-rings for the connection at the cooling pipe.

For the hose clamps, use of the factory (Oetiker, pinch-type) clamp will provide much tighter clamping than that
from a typical worm-drive style. Plus, you can use two of them on each connection (and offsetting the clamped
ends by at least 90 degrees) for some serious over-kill. They are very simple to use; just standard "end-nipper"
pliers will work just fine. These clamps come in a vast multitude of sizes, so for proper sizing, use one that will
just slide over your new (and not yet installed) hose.

Power steering fluid; any Dexron III compatible ATF.

Regards,
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is now... FIXED! Swapped out the p/s reservoir, no more noise. Something was bad wrong with the reservoir or cap, got a bunch of fluid leak from the top. Had to clean off the belly-pans in the process, but life is good again!
 

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good to hear!
 
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