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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had to replace (fail under warranty) one of the 2 throttle valve actuators I replaced around 1k miles ago. The vehicle is a 2006 M6 which has been ailing since I have owned it. I have been trying for a couple of years to get ISTA, etc. to work. 3 laptops and a couple of hard drives later, I have one working. I have been all over the internet trying to find out what I have to do to initialize? The actuators to get rid of the limp home mode I am currently stuck in. I had no success with ISTA and have been trying with INPA. I do have the program but it is in German and I have been unable to find a complete translation for it. I have gone into the ini file ( inpa.ini?) and made the changes for English with no success. Should I be using INPA or something else? If so, could someone tell me the correct sequence to use. Should I be doing something entirely different. I have already lost the 3rd summer of use and would like to get it going in time to get it into storage for the winter. Thanks for reading this and would appreciate any guidance you could provide.
Thank you
 

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As Flacoramos said, clear codes, turn on ignition wait for self initialization or pre-drive check, you can hear it clapping, then start it. if still not working, post the fault codes, you can also run the actuator and sensors tests, just make sure battery is full. There is possibility you have no issues with the actuator itself but there is a problem with the sensor but owners always think throttle actuator codes is the actuators what failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1 · 6 h ago

I recently had to replace (fail under warranty) one of the 2 throttle valve actuators I replaced around 1k miles ago. The vehicle is a 2006 M6 which has been ailing since I have owned it. I have been trying for a couple of years to get ISTA, etc. to work. 3 laptops and a couple of hard drives later, I have one working. I have been all over the internet trying to find out what I have to do to initialize? The actuators to get rid of the limp home mode I am currently stuck in. I had no success with ISTA and have been trying with INPA. I do have the program but it is in German and I have been unable to find a complete translation for it. I have gone into the ini file ( inpa.ini?) and made the changes for English with no success. Should I be using INPA or something else? If so, could someone tell me the correct sequence to use. Should I be doing something entirely different. I have already lost the 3rd summer of use and would like to get it going in time to get it into storage for the winter. Thanks for reading this and would appreciate any guidance you could provide.
Thank you


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flacoramos and platii,
Thank you for responding! I will try your suggestions tomorrow and post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Today, I recalibrated the SZL as the battery had been disconnected and, per ISTA, was successful. Scanned for codes and got the following report: S0078, S0090, S0085, S0122, S0166, S0180, S0376, 0027B1, 009C55, 009C7B, CDBF (the original code that alerted me to a defective throttle valve actuator). Per ISTA, the battery voltage was 13.7v. Cleared codes and read again with the following result: S0180, 00CDBF, 009C53, 009C7B, 00FFF1 and S0076. One more time I cleared/read the codes and got the same codes as the last time as well as: The following modules couldn't communicate, EDC, KGM, PDC, ASM-MRS and also added codes S0212 and S0158. Do I have another issue with my diagnostic setup? Is this have anything to do with the body module that was replaced this year? As always, thanks for any guidance you can provide!
Thank you
 

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Print screen:
1- All fault, after you post it I will ask you to double click on some fault and press on details to have more info.
2- The ECU's tree page.
The following modules couldn't communicate, EDC, KGM, PDC, ASM-MRS
Couldn't communicate with what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Today, I read/deleted codes several times and got a different report every time. I am going to send pictures of the control unit tree and the fault memory display. The two faults that reoccurred the most were comm with the DSC (5E19) and the original code (CDBF) for the throttle valve actuator, prior to replacing it. One thing I noticed was that the light on the interface cable would flash periodically where it used to stay lit constant. Issue? Thank you for your help! Computer Product Rectangle Font Gadget
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Throttle position sensor is bad, I wonder how the reading for the throttle actuator look like in the DME status page, check and post.
The DSC is confusing, It is marked red, but the software logged a fault. Is the ignition on and the voltage shown is for connected battery charger. Access the DSC and see if you can view any values in the it's status page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The first thing I did today was to order a new throttle position sensor. I ran another scan today and got a couple of red control units I couldn't reach (DSC was one) . I had to leave the car for about 15 minutes and when I returned, there were several red units. I stopped and checked the battery voltage which was down to 11v. I now have it on the battery charger. Could you suggest a power supply to purchase for troubleshooting? I guess I will need one to do any successful troubleshooting. I will do another scan tomorrow and post the results. Just to make sure, I am looking for data using the ECU function option? Thanks for your patience.
 

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Was the ignition ON when you scanned the car in you previous post where you showed the red DSC ECU?.
I understood the car was on a charger to show 13.7V?.
Could you access the DME to show the throttle position to see the values?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The ignition was on. The ISTA display indicated 13.7 v. I didn't verify that until yesterday. I would like to obtain a power supply for diagnostic purposes but am not sure what to purchase. I was hoping that you could give me suggestions as to what kind of supply I would need to use. When I access the DME, I am doing that from the ECU tree via ECU functions?
I am hoping that this experience will get me closer to doing my own diagnostics successfully. Thanks again for your patience and assistance!
 

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http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-INC-700A-Amp-Automatic-Charger/dp/B002Z2Z7ZY
Or similar sufficient for diagnosing, flashing or charging.
When I access the DME, I am doing that from the ECU tree via ECU functions?
you click on the DME from the tree and press on CALL up ECU on the bottom left, then you access the status page from the pop up windows.
Access the DSC ECU the same way, I want to see if you get connected to the DSC you when it is in RED, if not then the ECU is not online and you may need to check fuses F1, F25, and F78. Do you have the DSC lights on on the instrument cluster and fail message on the display screen?.
 

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While I'm sure that a $600 charger will do the trick, you could also hook up jumper cables to another car and have it running. Proceed at your own risk: most cables are junk these days, specially end clips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry for the delay in feedback. Yesterday, I had a battery charger connected and ran a scan which indicated the DSC ECU was down (red). The codes were cleared and another scan indicated that the DSC system was available. I looked at the status of the steering angle sensor which was at 0 deg. I checked a few other statuses in the ECU that were ok, did another scan and
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More toward software/laptop issue, try INPA if you have it to confirm. I would verify before going any further in troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will try reading/clearing codes with my Snap On scanner and see what the difference is. I will post results asap.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry, I forgot that you suggested trying INPA instead of ISTA. It is on the same laptop as ISTA so I will try it as well to check/compare differences. Maybe it will identify bad software and/or a laptop issue to remove that from the equation? I will run it prior to trying the Snap On scanner and will post results for this test as well.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have been out of town for a couple of weeks and also have replaced my ISTA scanner. I am no longer getting the bogus comm errors but have a new issue. I tried to clear codes with the Snap On scanner and it doesn’t work. I tried the ISTA again and when the program tells you to turn off the ignition and remove the key, it freezes. Check fuses? Thank you for your patience and assistance!
 
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