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New Owner 1st report

Unknown mileage could have been 1200 or 5K miles.
Oil Castrol TWS 10w60
Car was run hard followed by a 525 miles trip back home to a wash, wax, warm garage, and an oil change.

thoughts and insight?
 

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Did you idle your car or drive it for 2 minutes before the oil change, or was the oil change done immediately after a much longer drive (i.e. 20+ minutes of cruising or hard driving)? looks like you have a bit of fuel in there due to the trace amount found and lowered flashpoint.

Not much to say except your silicon is slightly elevated. This could be benign or could be poor air filtering - make sure your air filters are properly installed and that the intake tract is secured.

Boring reports are what you want. When there are no insights, it means there's nothing wrong that an oil analysis can tell you.
 

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Joe,

Thanks for the quick reply. Oil was changed later in the week, after a complete warm up.
I have been going through the car section at a time cleaning and double checking all the work that was performed as indecated on the work orders to make sure bolts and parts were assembled correctly and actually done. One of the air tubes O rings was twisted and out of alignment. The car is running K&N filters. I understand there is some various positions on their use and impacts on MAF and any actual performance. I would like your input if you don't mind. I have used them on other vehicles for 20 + years with some improvements depending on air box design and intakes.
The M5 air intake system looks to be super compared to other cars. When reviewing posted claims on CAI, it appears a slight improvement can be discovered. The stock box with paper filters (Mann etc) vs K&N....thoughts and insight? Both are cheap and easy so I would like to see if anyone has done dyno testing back to back, especially long term testing matched with lab testing of their oils.
 

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I ran K&N air filters in another car for 120k and had BETTER filtration (according to oil analysis) than OEM filters on that car.

However, I'm guessing yours are very freshly cleaned and oiled - when they are cleanest, they filter the worst and flow the best.

The m5 air intake design is very efficient and there are only a few intakes that actually work better than stock across a wide rpm range (Dinan is one). I would use stock air filters, personally.

it's ultimately up to you!
 

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So I'll write this response as I go through the page. Pretty interesting stuff so far, but I want to totally stress that there are about 50,000,000,000 different types of tests for oil and any single test is not an adequate assessment of the oil's 'greatness' for your engine.

This isa test where they heat the oil to at least 380 Celcius for an hour, while it's exposed to oxygen, and give a visual indication of the deposits, oil breakdown, oil thickening (indicated by either consumption or oil breakdown), oil consumption (as indicated by ash and/or thickening) created as a result. This might simulate oil on the cylinder wall during combustion, but the oil doesn't really stay exposed to that heat and pressure.

They cooked the oil in one position then rotated the oil container so that you can see what was left behind - ash, deposits, thickened oil, sludge, varnish, polymer formation, etc.

I look at this as relevant to our engines from a consumption standpoint. What happens when a given oil is exposed to sufficient heat to generate consumption/burn off. It is NOT a test relevant to say, the ability of an oil's film strength to keep seperate a rod bearing and crankshaft under high load. This is just one example of why a c

So again, take it for what it's worth. here's a brief summary for each U.S./widely available oil I viewed on there:

Castrol Edge 0-40 shows no visual deposits
BMW 0-40 LL shows some varnishing and minor deposits
BMW SAE 0w30 LL shows some varnishing and minor deposits
BMW SAE 5w30 LL-04 shows significant cooking, coking, sludging, deposit formation, and further breakdown
i-Sint and havoline 5w40 are very similar to the last description
Valvoline Synpower 5w30 shows some varnishing and minor deposits
ENEOS 5w40 shows very slight varnishing and minimal deposits
BP Visco 5w40 shows very thick sludging/breakdown, deposits, etc.
Liqui moly 0w40 shows really no visual varnish or deposits. I see some very small pieces in there that would be filtered out.
Castrol Magnatec 5w30 "For ford engines" shows sedimentation/deposits
Mercedes 229.5 original shows significant coking/cooking of the oil
Mobil 1 0w40 "Advanced full synthetic" (US has this available) shows no real deposits and very minor varnishing
Mobil 1 0w40 "full synthetic" shows notable varnishing, no real deposits or coking
Mobil 1 0w30 AFE shows a weird band of varnish and a little bit of cooking/coking
Mobil 1 5w40 "Fully synthetic" shows clumps of oil sludge forming and a coloration I don't know what it is - probably a mineral in the oil actually fully seperating from the oil. Not good.
Motul LL04 5w40 shows moderate coking, varnish, and minor sludging. I was surprised by this one.
BP Visco 5000 SAE 5w40 shows no varnish, coking, sludging, or any signs the oil was stressed.
Lukoil Standard 10w40 shows extremely minor varnish/oil breakdown
LiquiMoly 5w50 shows alot of varnishing and thickening. This is most likely the viscosity index improvers (the things allowing it to be a 5w50) breaking down.
Pentosin Super 5w30 shows some coking and varnishing
Castrol Edge 5w30 shows very minor coking and varnishing
Castrol Edge 0w30 "Professional" shows very significant breakdown leading to clumping and early sludging. Castrol's poorest showing so far.
Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 shows clumping and sludging, pretty significant
Castrol Edge professional 5w30 shows clumping and sludging and some varnishing/thickening
BMW Original 0w40 LL-04 shows significant breakdown and sludging. Most of the oil did not survive this test.

Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 shows notable varnishing and some thickening and minor deposit formation. The test notes to compare it to Pentosin Super as well. since this is particular relevant to this forum, my comment is that this is to be expected. 10w60 has a very significant amount of viscosity index improvers to get it to operate at such extreme viscosity differences. These are very well known to breakdown - that's why 10w60 is often a 10w40 or 10w50 after just 3000-5000 miles. i think that's what we're seeing here.

Motul 300v 5w40 shows a significant amount of deposits, varnishing, but very little sludging/coking. It's an interesting mix - it's like this oil doesn't clump/sludge, but will form deposits.

Motul 8100 Clean shows almost entirely polymerization, where the oil is forming deposits in the form of polymers. Some sludging and coking.

Skipping a few here...

Total Quartz 5w40 - deposits, sludging, coking.

Honda genuine 5w30 (of all things) - Very minor thickening and varnish

Mobil Super 15w40 - a tad of varnish, no deposit, no sludging

Shell Helix Racing Ultra 10w60 - Alot of coking and sludging. Very little varnishing.

BMW High performance full synthetic 5w30 significant coking and thickening

BMW LL-01 5w30 shows some deposit formation and thickening

Castrol Edge Professional 5w30 alot of coking and deposits

Elf Evolution CRV 0w30 Ash seperation/formation and varnishing

Kendall full synthetic 0w20 very minor deposit formation and varnishing

Mobil One 10w60 alot of thickening, varnishing, and some minor deposit formation

Quartz Total 10w40 - one of the best showings - no signs of deposits, varnish, thickening, etc.

Shell Helix Ultra 0w40 significant clumping and early sludging

Castrol Edge Professional LL-III 5w30 deposits forming and significant thickening of the oil

Redline 5w40 is varnishing and shows deposits forming and ash generating

Fuchs Titan GT1 5w40 significant breakdown/cooking/coking

Fuchs Titan GT1 pro 5w30 - excellent showing, bit of varnish/thickening but no signs of deposits or cooking of oil

Liqui Moly SynthOil 5w40 High Tech - Some thickening and varnish but fairly minor

Liqui Moly 0w30 - very minor deposits and thickening, even a slightly better showing than their 5w40
 

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LiquiMoly 10w60 Analysis

Interesting read...I switched from Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance due to concern over bearing wear. The new report reveals some better numbers and consumption dropped dramatically.

I get 5 L of LiquiMoly 10w60 for $40, so it's a very affordable change.
 

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lol

Well I will hopefully be performing another oil change here shortly. Still on my first batch of Eneos 0w50 at 5k miles. Will be changing the oil with Eneos again, and running it for another 6-7k miles before sending off samples to Blackstone. I did not want to send them a slight mixture of my previous oil with the Eneos.
 

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Where's JohnAnthony to post up some graphs? :D
man i missed this call out

the russian thing would make a great addition to my thread on Oil Bottles...ARAL TRONIC bottles FTW

everyone better switch to BMW 5W40 & QUARTZ/TOTAL 10W40... suggested the moderator with heavy sarcasm
 

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Hi,


I've read a previous article on MOTUL V300 with Snogard & Lscman but it's dated 2007 so I prefer to post this test here :


Comparatif huiles moteur, Royal Purple, Motul, Castrol? - Renox France


It's in french but you can use Google translate to understand the main ideas...


MOTUL 300V 15w50 isn't good, even for short term protection (compared to other tested), as you can see with the Timken test.


it's not graph or oil analysis report but I though you'd find this interesting.


Robin
 

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Also, below is the link of a oil analysis :


TEST ADDITIF HUILE ECOTEC T2S - AutoMotoConso.com


Look at the right column, it's 10 000kms oil test with the product Ecotec T2S. Last line is wear particule indice.


you can see the same kind of resistance test with this product below :


https://youtu.be/IxTjEyhmZPQ


Maybe the kind of product used in RP HPS oil to get its extreme protection.


Personnaly, I'm using this product in all my cars including the E39 M5 for engine & gearbox. (Yes, it's not OEM, but !)


Robin
 

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Here's my current oil analysis on 5K miles on AMSOIL Premium Protection 20W-50. Sample #1 in report is the baseline on TWS 10W-60 oil change done by PO. I bought my car in Nov 2014 and have been working steadily on it. Applicable items have been fuel filter, spark plugs, all four O2 sensors; just before sample #2 drawn I replaced all CPS and VANOS solenoid seals.

My current opinion is that this oil is providing excellent protection. Engine runs fine but I need to get it out more on longer, harder drives - the last time I did the fuel mileage was much better than the 16-17mpg I get in "around town" driving. I have yet to address changing the thermostat and MAFs.
 

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oops, revived wrong thread
 

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Liqui Moly 10w60. No idea how many miles were on it or how much oil was added; it was the oil that came in the car when I bought it. Car has 146k miles, MY2000:
WILLIAM: Thanks for the notes. We didn't find any extra bearing wear in this sample. In fact, lead is below
average at 1 ppm, so the bearings in this S62 appear to be getting along well. You mentioned some oil
consumption too, but if the engine only used a quart over 5,000 miles that sounds pretty normal. Something
like a quart per 1,000 miles would be more worrisome, and we'd just keep an eye on how much oil the
engine is losing. The flashpoint being above the expected value shows no measurable amount of fuel. The TBN of 9.7 is well above our 1.0 lower limit.


ALUMINUM 3
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 7
COPPER 3
LEAD 1
TIN 0
MOLYBDENUM 25
NICKEL 0
MANGANESE 1
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 4
POTASSIUM 1
BORON 36
SILICON 5
SODIUM 2
CALCIUM 2506
MAGNESIUM 13
PHOSPHORUS 905
ZINC 1035
BARIUM 0


SUS VISCOSITY @ 210*F 87.1
cSt Viscosity @ 100*C 17.27
Flashpoint in *F 405
Fuel % <0.5
Antifreeze % 0.0
Water % 0.0
Insolubles 0.2
TBN 9.7
 

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Latest LiquiMoly 10w60 analysis

From Blackstone:
If you did something differently on this fill compared to last time, keep it up - nickel and silicon both
dropped out of cautionary ranges, and the small amount of fuel we'd been seeing for the last four years has
cleared up. With the absence of highlights, this M5 has earned its first perfect report, and we see no issues
with how this engine's operating. Besides having no fuel, there was no other measurable contamination,
either, and viscosity was fine for 10W/60 grade oil. Air and oil filtration both look great. Good-looking BMW
at just under 150,000 total miles.
 

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