alright, so I've been getting this code on and off for the past couple months but today when it went off I immediately noticed that the car has a slightly lumpy idle and the shifter is slightly shaking. Usually only get it during a cold start but today am getting it even after the car is warmed up. I've changed spark plugs just a few thousand miles ago. It is only the d4 code from table 1b of the peak codes and nothing more. The other thought occurred to me that it is the coil pack. The car only does the odd lumpy/shakey feeling when at idle not under load, the car starts and goes fine even if I give her some throttle. Anyone have any other thoughts? Need to get this resolved before friday as I'm getting married saturday and need the car running properly before then. Thank you!
Peak Code: 1b code d4 - Misfire during warm up cyl#8
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Is it always cyl #8? Did you use OEM plugs and were they torqued properly?
yes, always the same code and usually right at start up when the car is cold or somewhere during the drive before the car is fully warmed up (ie: all orange lights on tach haven't turned off)
took the car to my indie just now and its running fine and we were able to clear the error code (usually if the issue is going on the code cannot be cleared). he said more likely than not its the coil pack. car has 76.5k miles now. forum member jt2ma1 keeps telling me it could be a vanos solenoid or a cps issue, i would like to know that it isn't the case.
edit: forgot to mention about the spark plugs, the ones i pulled were a bosch brand, the ones i put in are a ngk brand i forgot the model but they are very popular amongst the forum members. all plugs were torqued properly. I did the plugs back in july of 09 or so no issues until now the winter of 2010/2011 when the temps dropped quite low.
A quick way to isolate the fault would be to swap out the coil pack with another cylinder and see if the fault moves to the new cylinder. You are lucky that you are only getting the cold misfires on one cylinder - I pull the codes every now and again and about half the time, I'll get the cold misfires on multiple cylinders, which is harder to diagnose down to an individual component.
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MAF will cause issues in all cylinders of the associated bank. Swap coils and see if the problem follows...
sadly, the issue is very hard to replicate. sometimes the code comes instantly, sometimes it'll come on after a day or two. I ended up buying a new coil pack from the stealership and am picking it up tomorrow. i'll pop it in and save the old one just in case and see if it was indeed the issue.
Thanks man!Congrats on your upcoming marriage
yeah like tonight after i cleared the code and i went out for a drive no issues, no codes, and no lumpy throttle.... then all of a sudden at a red light i felt a slight wobbliness to the idle that i can just barely feel and then its gone... no codes.
i have gotten the table 1b code 69 before but it's been a week or so since I last had that. I'm assuming my Tstat is or already on its way out and i'll need to change that soon, probably do the whole coolant system overhaul.
Considering the length of time elapsed since changing the plugs, one could probably assume that the misfire code is not related to that job.
Just guessing, and from personal experience, I reckon its wiring connection at Fuel Injector #8. However as the coils are easier to get to, I would as others have suggested, some some coils around on bank 2 and see if the code follows.
RE 69 : Yes !
+1 for a loose ground wire
Any idea why or how the ground could have gotten loose to begin with?
Bah! It's back to having a lumpy idle and it spat out the 69 and d4 codes again on a semi cold start. At first it didn't feel wrong and it drove great, stopped to top up the fuel tank and now as I pulled into my driveway it felt hesitant while in gear as I let it slightly coast (in third) to my driveway. Figured the jerkiness was due to being in 3rd, tried to get the car going in first just by letting the clutch out easily, back to a jerky forward roll, it wasn't doing this right after I had put the new coil in.
Any clue what else might be the case? I notice a bit of a tap tap here and there that is usually not there coming from the engine bay its a light tap noise, happens one after the other and in a sequence.
I have checked the ground wire, I have replaced the ignition coil.... I didn't do the wrong cylinder did I??? it's cyl#8 that is being problematic, I checked online and could only find one post on this forum in regards to the cylinder numbering, it said cylinders 1-4 run from the front of the car to the back of the car a long the passenger side of the car and cylinders 5-8 run from the front of the car to the back of the car a long the drivers (north american drivers side) side of the car. So I have replaced the coil on the drivers side of the car which is closest to the firewall.
this is starting to get annoying and I'm afraid I can't resolve it or do anything about it until 2 weeks from now meaning I'll be driving around with it as is until such a time. Hopefully I just did the wrong cylinder and it'll be as easy as swapping the coil over to the correct cylinder again. Now if I have done all this correctly, what are the next steps to diagnose this? Any idea's why the car would have started running rather well for the hour or two I did drive it after dropping in the new coil only to park it for a couple hours and to have it start throwing codes and then after a short drive start idling funny again?
Any clue what else might be the case? I notice a bit of a tap tap here and there that is usually not there coming from the engine bay its a light tap noise, happens one after the other and in a sequence.
I have checked the ground wire, I have replaced the ignition coil.... I didn't do the wrong cylinder did I??? it's cyl#8 that is being problematic, I checked online and could only find one post on this forum in regards to the cylinder numbering, it said cylinders 1-4 run from the front of the car to the back of the car a long the passenger side of the car and cylinders 5-8 run from the front of the car to the back of the car a long the drivers (north american drivers side) side of the car. So I have replaced the coil on the drivers side of the car which is closest to the firewall.
this is starting to get annoying and I'm afraid I can't resolve it or do anything about it until 2 weeks from now meaning I'll be driving around with it as is until such a time. Hopefully I just did the wrong cylinder and it'll be as easy as swapping the coil over to the correct cylinder again. Now if I have done all this correctly, what are the next steps to diagnose this? Any idea's why the car would have started running rather well for the hour or two I did drive it after dropping in the new coil only to park it for a couple hours and to have it start throwing codes and then after a short drive start idling funny again?
I guess I could it's just that I feel it should be ok considering I just changed all 8 plugs a few thousand miles ago. Maybe I'll just drive it as is for the next couple weeks then open it up when I get a chance. Stupid busy with all the wedding stuff but need the car for the wedding day for sure, crappiest part is, I won't be driving it so I'm hoping my friend who is driving will be able to anticipate how the car is behaving so he won't keep stalling and looking moronic.
I have so often new faulty spark plugs to deal with that I do not believe anything regarding those anymore.
Does not matter if Bosch,NGK,Denso,....
Very recent example,bought 4 weeks ago Bosch plugs for my daily beater,car ran like ****e after the change.
2 of 4 plugs were not working correct.
Replaced them,fine now...
Good to know. I opened the car up o recheck and I notice that I reused the rubber coupling thing that goes between the spark plug and the coil. Well it is a loose fit and it doesn't grip the spark plug with suction like the other coils do. I'm assuming I should just replace the rubber/cable part as well as the plug and go from there.
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