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Hey guys, I bought a 08 E60 M5 ( it was an impulse buy) from a VW dealership. The car has 92k miles on it which I know is pretty high. I don’t have a lot of service records but I took it the the shop that works on my E39 540 and he says the car was taken care of. ( it runs great, I plan to drive it moderately) I am saving the cash for the rod bearing job right now. Do you guys suggest getting a blackstone oil analysis before I just blow the cash on the rod bearing job? I don’t need another oil change for another 3k miles because it got one right before I bought it. Or should I just do to bearings right away once I get the cash? I only drive this car on the weekends. I’m also worried about the clutch, is there anyway to tell if it’s been done or if it’s going out? Also, is there anyway to tell if the rod bearings have already been done. Noob questions I know, but again not my daily car, only plan on driving it on weekends. Thanks in advance guys.
 

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The forum is a wealth of knowledge, I'd suggest you start by reading the copious amount of threads regarding your concerns/ the stickies. Just about any question has already been asked and answered somewhere here.

I would wager most people here would agree that at 92k you very well may be on borrowed time for your bearings. You could be good to go for 50k miles you could spin a bearing in a half mile. There is no way to know if they were done unless you tear apart the bottom end to look and at that point you might as well replace. Personally, I would only put in high clearance bearings. BE and ACL are good options. You're also right around the time for new throttle/idle actuators, and spark plugs, I'd set some coin aside for that.

Ghost of rod bearing past is real, it will haunt you and you won't be able to fully enjoy the car until you get it done.

No need to do blackstone if you're going to do bearings first.

The car will throw a code once the clutch starts to slip. I'd invest in a scan tool or a cheap coder like iCarly to read and clear codes.

While these cars are not the most reliable, I'd more say they aren't neglect tolerant. Please do not defer maintenance or it will come back to bite you at a higher cost. There's a reason why they depreciated so hard. There's also no other car like it which is why we all spend probably to much money keeping these beasts on the road. Got to pay to play and all that.

Best of luck
 

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Depends on how risk adverse you are. There's no way to know what the guts of your motor look like, so it's a gamble with unknown odds. I don't want to fear monger, but I wouldn't be beating the piss out of it at redline either.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks man, I drive moderately. I never redline it, at least until I get all of this preventative maintenance done.
 

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Thanks man, I drive moderately. I never redline it, at least until I get all of this preventative maintenance done.
Driving it moderately, is equivalent to not banging your super model wife. Get the Rod bearings done and give her what she wants.
 

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Rod bearings (with squirters, vanos oil line, chain guides) + steering rack + motor mounts + throttle actuator gears + spark plugs + thermostat + orings for vanos actuators/smg clutch valve solenoid + alternator voltage regulator + trans/diff/smg fluids.

Do the above and you'll end up with a 500hp v10 daily driver with Camry reliability (or whatever the benchmark is these days, Honda?). Plus most of it is DIY-able.
 

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Pmalik

How much do you think all of the above will cost me? I almost have enough for the bearing job
 

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I'm gonna slightly disagree here a bit.

do the rod bearings and maybe the high pressure line while you're in there as well as the motor mounts since the frame is down. Check the steering rack at that time, replace if bad again while the subframe is down.

Oil squiters a nice to have, maybe while you're in there(depending on production), but I don't think it really matters either way.

Chain guides are less of thing than on the S62, the Vanos orings are a waste of time , the other things handle as they come. I assure they will come but just not catastrophic when they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm gonna slightly disagree here a bit.

do the rod bearings and maybe the high pressure line while you're in there as well as the motor mounts since the frame is down. Check the steering rack at that time, replace if bad again while the subframe is down.
Hey
Oil squiters a nice to have, maybe while you're in there(depending on production), but I don't think it really matters either way.

Chain guides are less of thing than on the S62, the Vanos orings are a waste of time , the other things handle as they come. I assure they will come but just not catastrophic when they do.
Thanks for your input man. As far as drivng the car ( only on the weekends) before the rod bearings are replaced.. should I be worried? I need another month or 2 to save the cash. Should I not drive it?
 

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Rod bearings (with squirters, vanos oil line, chain guides) + steering rack + motor mounts + throttle actuator gears + spark plugs + thermostat + orings for vanos actuators/smg clutch valve solenoid + alternator voltage regulator + trans/diff/smg fluids.

Do the above and you'll end up with a 500hp v10 daily driver with Camry reliability (or whatever the benchmark is these days, Honda?). Plus most of it is DIY-able.
I'm gonna slightly disagree here a bit.

do the rod bearings and maybe the high pressure line while you're in there as well as the motor mounts since the frame is down. Check the steering rack at that time, replace if bad again while the subframe is down.

Oil squiters a nice to have, maybe while you're in there(depending on production), but I don't think it really matters either way.

Chain guides are less of thing than on the S62, the Vanos orings are a waste of time , the other things handle as they come. I assure they will come but just not catastrophic when they do.
I partially agree with you two. I agree with Ferris in that other than bearings the rest of stuff will not result in catastrophic failure. But if you want reliability I would do several (not all) of the items in pmalik's list and then some: smg gear position sensor, smg pump motor overhaul...

Either way it's not a cheap car. And that should be clear to everybody buying an E6x M car. But it's not. Hence why prices are what they are...

To the OP: nobody knows for sure whether bearings will last another day or several years. It's up to you to decide what's the risk. I can tell you that when I bought my car, just like you I knew I had to do bearings regardless. This is my daily driver so I still drove to the office every day. Just be aware there are stories of people who had engine failures right after the car was bought.
 

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Hey guys, I bought a 08 E60 M5 ( it was an impulse buy) from a VW dealership. The car has 92k miles on it which I know is pretty high. I donâ€t have a lot of service records but I took it the the shop that works on my E39 540 and he says the car was taken care of. ( it runs great, I plan to drive it moderately) I am saving the cash for the rod bearing job right now. Do you guys suggest getting a blackstone oil analysis before I just blow the cash on the rod bearing job? I donâ€t need another oil change for another 3k miles because it got one right before I bought it. Or should I just do to bearings right away once I get the cash? I only drive this car on the weekends. Iâ€m also worried about the clutch, is there anyway to tell if itâ€s been done or if itâ€s going out? Also, is there anyway to tell if the rod bearings have already been done. Noob questions I know, but again not my daily car, only plan on driving it on weekends. Thanks in advance guys.
buddy.. if you want to enjoy your car stop reading stupid posts... get yourself a vanos pressure gauge and teste the pressure every 3 4 months... and oil analysis every so often.. dont change things just because you read here...the rod bearings are a bit of a risk not because the design in bad.. but because you dont know how the car was treated by the previous owner.. people are punishing these cars by reving the when cold.. also its no point in reving the car to 8250...if find no performance difference if you change gear around 7.8 8k rpm..
also, some comments here are undeniable idiotic complaining about reliability of a supercar used as a daily driver... name one car with such a performance that can last 100k+ with relatively cheap maintenance costs in respect of supercar.. probably another m car.. people are talking about pottentially spending 2.5k to replace the rod bearings once every 50k miles.. are you kidding? the complain about spending 2k to replace the smg pump on pre 07 models once in cars lifetime...... i ve driven f10 m5... its faster yeah... but lacks the sound.. the rawness. the brutaliry of this magnicicsent v10.. think about it guys... you can buy an e60 m5 for closer to 10k and lets say you budget another 10k to replace everything you can think of.. for 20k you have an amazing car...

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Hey guys, I bought a 08 E60 M5 ( it was an impulse buy) from a VW dealership. The car has 92k miles on it which I know is pretty high. I donâ€t have a lot of service records but I took it the the shop that works on my E39 540 and he says the car was taken care of. ( it runs great, I plan to drive it moderately) I am saving the cash for the rod bearing job right now. Do you guys suggest getting a blackstone oil analysis before I just blow the cash on the rod bearing job? I donâ€t need another oil change for another 3k miles because it got one right before I bought it. Or should I just do to bearings right away once I get the cash? I only drive this car on the weekends. Iâ€m also worried about the clutch, is there anyway to tell if itâ€s been done or if itâ€s going out? Also, is there anyway to tell if the rod bearings have already been done. Noob questions I know, but again not my daily car, only plan on driving it on weekends. Thanks in advance guys.


If you’re worried about money for a oil change, I would trade it back in lol.


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IF I WAS u i would get rid of it..
YEs these cars cost to keep them up.
BUt not to many cars out here like a e60.
Good luck
 

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buddy.. if you want to enjoy your car stop reading stupid posts... get yourself a vanos pressure gauge and teste the pressure every 3 4 months... and oil analysis every so often.. dont change things just because you read here...the rod bearings are a bit of a risk not because the design in bad.. but because you dont know how the car was treated by the previous owner.. people are punishing these cars by reving the when cold.. also its no point in reving the car to 8250...if find no performance difference if you change gear around 7.8 8k rpm..
also, some comments here are undeniable idiotic complaining about reliability of a supercar used as a daily driver... name one car with such a performance that can last 100k+ with relatively cheap maintenance costs in respect of supercar.. probably another m car.. people are talking about pottentially spending 2.5k to replace the rod bearings once every 50k miles.. are you kidding? the complain about spending 2k to replace the smg pump on pre 07 models once in cars lifetime...... i ve driven f10 m5... its faster yeah... but lacks the sound.. the rawness. the brutaliry of this magnicicsent v10.. think about it guys... you can buy an e60 m5 for closer to 10k and lets say you budget another 10k to replace everything you can think of.. for 20k you have an amazing car...

Sent from my LYA-L09 using Tapatalk
Please don't give advise on something you have no knowledge.
Rod bearings ARE a problem on S85. No, you don't change bearings every 50K miles - you do it properly once with correct bearings and bolts and won't have to do again for the remainder of the engine life. The cost to replace the bearings at this point is what it takes to have these used cars running properly. If you haven't changed the bearings, you are on borrowed time, regardless of the mileage. Its not the matter of IF, but WHEN - nearly all S85 will fail if continued to be used with stick bearings. Some did at very low mileages with proper warm up techniques. That's just facts.
 
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