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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever have this code pop up? P0208. Just came on today and it's running rough. It also threw some other codes related to misfire and fuel cutoff on a few cylinders. Runs like it has bad gas or water in it. Was gonna try some fuel system cleaner, next step would of been checking the connectors and taking the injectors out for cleaning. I changed both tps sensors last week along with oil separators, top hoses for the oil sep, cleaned MAF sensors and replaced oil cap. It ran good for maybe 60 miles, now it feels like it's running short on cylinders. Any expert advice would be appreciated.
 

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Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P0208

<TABLE> <TBODY> <TR> <TD class=tdDTC>Category</TD> <TD>Powertrain</TD></TR> <TR> <TD class=tdDTC>Definition</TD> <TD>Injector Circuit/Open - Cylinder 8</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 

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I think AGM5 is gently suggesting a search using code P0208 would tell you you have a problem specifically with injector #8. The "open" in the error message means the connection between the DME and the injector has been broken and the injector has quit working, so you have lost that cylinder. Injectors on E39 M5's are pretty bullet-proof, so since you were recently working on the TPS's, maybe you disturbed the connector or wiring. Injector #8 is the rear-most one on the LH bank looking from the drivers seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I understood what he was referring too. I did some additional steps today when I woke up. Purchased some Lucas fuel system cleaner and poured the whole bottle in my half tank of fuel. Started the car up and it still idled crappy. I revved the engine for about 30 sec and cut it off. Restarted and it ran fine. Drive it down the road about ten miles and the light kicked on and the idle started again. I limped it back home at 70 mph and let it cool down in front of a fan. I was planning on taking the plenum back off, but decided to swap coil packs, I switched 5 and 8 and sanded down the ground to the coils and started the car and it ran fine again. I drove the car the rest of the day with no issues. Either it's something that comes and goes, it could be the heat also. When it kicked on, it was about 90 degrees outside. Tonight I drove it and it never came back. Tomorrow afternoon I will run it hard and see if it lights back up. When I changed the TPS's, I never touched the harness or anything, the job was pretty simple and only took an hour to complete. I don't understand why so many people said the job was a PITA. It was just like changing my oil but taking 40 nuts off to do it. I still think the light will come back, if it does, I will check the wiring and test the injector with my meter. Thank you two fellas for the quick replies.
 

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You are pissing me off, not really, but sort of. Not your fault, but..... First it was "she was referring too". Which means you really have not read the board or likely searched.
Both posters told you exactly what is wrong with your car and in your response that seems to disagree with them, it totally agreed.
You have an electrical problem on your #8 injector. How would fuel injector cleaner fix that? The way to check this is to pull the rails and switch injector 8 with another and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You guys take the forum site seriously. If I offended anyone, I apoligize. If it seemed to you that I lacked the knowledge to push the search button, once again apologize, but I did do some research and look at similar codes related to mine. In the process, I figured it would be preventive maintenance to try the things I stated. No harm done. The fuel cleaner was just a test to maybe help with carbon build up on the injectors. I did read where someone said a coil pack replacement fixed that similar issue where it never recurred. Another post where a dirty injector threw the same also. I did mention if the light came back on I would be testing the injector, swapping from another if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
P0208

Issue is fixed, or resolved for the time being. I swapped #8 and #5 coil packs and sanded down the ground. Started right up and never came back. Don't know what happened or why it went away, but no short or fault cold for injector 8 cutting off. Another issue arises tonight though. Could of been from the previous night. Driving home and check engine oil level light came on. Drove it ten miles til I got home and put a quart in it. It's about a quarter to much according to the dipstick. But I never started it that night when I filled it. Tonight though I did and rough idle occurred. Codes p01526, p0022, p1350 52 54 56, and p0316. After doing some research Im replacing the intake cps as soon as I can. Let me know from your experience if you think I'm headed in the wrong direction. The vanos board was rebuilt by Dr. Vanos, two solenoids went out. Unsure which ones, PO did it, all I have is the receipt. O rings replaced also. I was going to swap the two cps's but I have kids to drop off at school tomorrow and rather than swap, I'd rather replace if I'm doing all the work already. Wife is tired of the car and wanting me to get rid of it bc of the issues and maintenance to keep it running, so if interested, let me know. It's really clean and only has 105k.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Vanos



Running it low on oil have anything to do with that issue? Is it safe to drive in the meantime? This morning I dropped the kids off and it felt like misfires throughout, got home and reset the codes and started right up with no issues. Drove it and never came back. Got home and parked it for 4 hrs and the two codes popped right up with the rough idle, p1526 and p0022. This time resetting doesn't work. That side was the one the PO had two solenoids go bad in. Thank you for your help. I will pull the solenoids out this week and check them. I read the write up on how to solder and test them. It was very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Vanos solenoid Issue fixed

Finally had the time to take the board out today and found the issue with the solenoid at 12 o'clock, the one that controls the intake bank. Dr vanos rebuilt that same solenoid for the PO 10 months ago. After looking at the work they did, I wasn't happy. Solder points were crappy and the spot that holds them were mangled. It wasn't easy taking the board out. Top came out with no problem, then the right, then the bottom. The left one I needed vise grips and a pry bar to get it loose. The main solenoid had a split right down the solder point Dr Vanos made. I wasn't sure if it was going to work. But I tested it and everything was ok. Install was simple. I read about using the back plate to push it in, but I just pushed all four in with my hands. Tightened down the bolts and reset the light and fired her up. Had a rattle noise at startup, but it went away and all was good. I saved a lot of money doing the work myself. Easy job and only cost $20. Codes popping up were P0022 and 1526. Before and after photos.




 

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Finally had the time to take the board out today and found the issue with the solenoid at 12 o'clock, the one that controls the intake bank. Dr vanos rebuilt that same solenoid for the PO 10 months ago. After looking at the work they did, I wasn't happy. Solder points were crappy and the spot that holds them were mangled. It wasn't easy taking the board out. Top came out with no problem, then the right, then the bottom. The left one I needed vise grips and a pry bar to get it loose. The main solenoid had a split right down the solder point Dr Vanos made. I wasn't sure if it was going to work. But I tested it and everything was ok. Install was simple. I read about using the back plate to push it in, but I just pushed all four in with my hands. Tightened down the bolts and reset the light and fired her up. Had a rattle noise at startup, but it went away and all was good. I saved a lot of money doing the work myself. Easy job and only cost $20. Codes popping up were P0022 and 1526. Before and after photos.
It's not clear to me if you found a problem or not? Did you repair something?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Solder point that Dr Vanos repaired before cracked as seen in the pic. Left contact point looking at top pic. I re soldered all contact points. Then it fixed my issue. Thank you for leading me in the right direction.
 
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