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<!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention --> @Ferris <!-- END TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention -->: You're a great guy! You just went out on an early Sunday morning to help a fellow member. Cheers! :cheers:
lol thanks but the wife was demanding I put on pants anyway :)

Afterthought though, in case it's not obvious. you have to get the wheels almost straight before using the dead ahead markings. since the rack input has more than one turn, you can be two turns in for instance the marking would be useless.
hope that makes sense.
 

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Thanks again @Ferris.... that lil lady is a keeper. Do whatever she sez. :D
LOL she was trying to get me to the beach before the Benny's(out of towners from north jersey) flood the area and ruin the fun.

Let me know if you have any more questions and let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Update....had a small set back. I removed the vanos solenoids on the driver's side bank and blew out those and cleaned them. Once those solenoids were re-installed the car would not turn over and was locked out. My PC wouldn't connect thru INPA.....Errr. It ended up being a simple battery reset that did the trick. Now we're back up.

Here's a short video of the cranking and vanos cranking pressure. I've done several sets of cranking and rests then checked the filter and drained and filtered the oil. So far very little debris or metal. Next steps are to drain and fill with 7 quarts then install the new injectors and plugs....and fire it up. :D

I'm happy thus far.....it sounds like a well oiled sewing machine with no weird noises.

https://www.facebook.com/rick.toth.9/videos/10212247138841301/
 

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Awesome glad to hear your close... Though it'll take course to 11 quarts after though, if you dumped the sump.

If you happen to pull the electric pumps off the pan, I cleaned the pan, so I had them off. Run them using INPA or whatever, to help purge the air out of them.

Hope you got the wheel centered.

Wish I had Facebook would love to see the video.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Here it is running....at idle.

https://www.facebook.com/rick.toth.9/videos/10212253228593541/

sorry...don't know how to post video directly here.
@Ferris...the subframe is going up next. The plan is to get the frame in place, straighten the wheels, then mark the spline straight position. Lower the works then attach the steering column shaft and raise it again with everything in the straight position.
 

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Here it is running....at idle.

https://www.facebook.com/rick.toth.9/videos/10212253228593541/

sorry...don't know how to post video directly here.
<!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention --> @Ferris <!-- END TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention -->...the subframe is going up next. The plan is to get the frame in place, straighten the wheels, then mark the spline straight position. Lower the works then attach the steering column shaft and raise it again with everything in the straight position.
It would probably be easier if I picture the state you're in... to pull to mark and pull the shaft from the column, all you have to do is remove the lower dash panel, 5 screws and that little carpeted filler piece on the center console. Remove the shaft reassemble outside the car using the factory marks on each half and pushing it together till it's fully compressed. Pass the whole assembly through firewall, from the inside. and connect it as we talked about.

The reason is, it's a pain the *** to get the splines together and lined up,while it's in the car and you're under it.

Oh yeah by doing it this way it will also allow you to get the subframe up with out worrying about the steering linkage. Remove it before trying to get it up and it's one less think in the way, then connect it after the subframe is fully bolted.
 

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Here it is running....at idle.

https://www.facebook.com/rick.toth.9/videos/10212253228593541/

sorry...don't know how to post video directly here.
@Ferris...the subframe is going up next. The plan is to get the frame in place, straighten the wheels, then mark the spline straight position. Lower the works then attach the steering column shaft and raise it again with everything in the straight position.

You have to post it to youtube and then post it here, IIRC.
 

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It would probably be easier if I picture the state you're in... to pull to mark and pull the shaft from the column, all you have to do is remove the lower dash panel, 5 screws and that little carpeted filler piece on the center console. Remove the shaft reassemble outside the car using the factory marks on each half and pushing it together till it's fully compressed. Pass the whole assembly through firewall, from the inside. and connect it as we talked about.

The reason is, it's a pain the *** to get the splines together and lined up,while it's in the car and you're under it.

Oh yeah by doing it this way it will also allow you to get the subframe up with out worrying about the steering linkage. Remove it before trying to get it up and it's one less think in the way, then connect it after the subframe is fully bolted.

Does this mean that if you're dropping the subframe, it is possible to keep the steering shaft intact by somehow doing something via the firewall so that you don't have to worry about splines at all? Bear with me - I've never dropped the subframe and I have no picture in my brain for most of what is being said.
 

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Normally you disconnect it from the rack and you are fine. In my case I did somethin dumb. Had to replace the shaft , clock spring and pull the whole column apart.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

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The beast lives again.... :D

Here she is purring getting the air out of the power steering system.
https://www.facebook.com/rick.toth.9/videos/10212286462584370/

Went for a little cruise and everything is great!! There's a bit of clicking in the steering I need to hunt that down. Might be related to the new front control arms.
Check the heat shield around steering knuckle input to the rack. It's quite flimsy and gets bent easily so the bolt on the knuckle will rub/pop against it.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Check the heat shield around steering knuckle input to the rack. It's quite flimsy and gets bent easily so the bolt on the knuckle will rub/pop against it.
Thanks Jim. Is this something that happens under load or would this still happen when jacked? We had no noise on stands when moving the wheels back and forth....it seems it's just under load (off the stands). It almost sounds like a tight ball joint clicking.
 

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You replaced control arms only or tie rod and control arms? I would listen and isolate the area. It could be a few things from swaybar to strut support bushing. See if you can youtube a video for us too.

Also last random thought did you tighten the control arms under load?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #56
You replaced control arms only or tie rod and control arms? I would listen and isolate the area. It could be a few things from swaybar to strut support bushing. See if you can youtube a video for us too.

Also last random thought did you tighten the control arms under load?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
New control arms were torqued under load. The struts were not touched.

btw....Jim I have a nice set of aluminum strut bolts. I have no need for them....let me know if you want them. I can mail them back. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
After 500 miles of use we checked the oil filter last night.....only a couple of small slivers of shiny. No glitter and all is clean and dry...I'm happy!!!
 

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Hi, just read thru this thread once again since I forgot most the details when the thread was assembled...
And I'm a little confused about the steering linkage... if one drops the whole subframe with steering rack, does he need to align it properly on re-assembly?
I thought the bolt that goes thru it will make sure it's aligned?

Thank you
 
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