Over the last few weeks, I got the clutch master and slave cylinder on and bled. It was a bit of a pain in the *** given that I didn't do it off the car and didn't put a little bit of brake fluid down the feed line going to the clutch master cylinder. I used my MityVac and reverse bled the system by sending fluid up the slave to the master. After about 30 minutes or so, it finally built pressure up. If you do this, make sure to not pushing the pedal while the slave cylinder is out. Mine accidentally popped the seal out on the rod and had to get it back in.
I also replaced all four O2 sensors since it was the perfect time to do so. Getting to the rears were pretty straight forward but getting to the forward ones was a pain! To get to it, I had to remove the side covers near the rear of the inner fender to gain access from the side. I used a O2 socket with a 3/8th swivel head ratchet to break them loose. Be sure to route the cables in their appropriate clips to keep them away from the exhaust manifold. I reused the old O2 sensor bracket on the driver side of the transmission to hold the connector and the cable in place.
For the passenger side, I attached a bracket on the transmission at another location to hold the main O2 sensor harness away from the exhaust. I also test fitted the custom cooler lines. I cut down the stock M3 lines and welded some -6 AN fitting and just capped them for the meantime while I figure out a way to run a transmission oil cooler in the front and a thermostatically controlled switch to power the factory trans pump. While they do fit and probably work without a hitch, they are rubbing up again the trans tunnel so I will re-do these prior to the car running. I have them mounted in the stock location where they would be in the M3. It's a nice fit in that location as it hold many of the wires back and routes the lines up and away from the header. Just need to tweak it a bit to get it right.
I also took this time while waiting for the shifter components to refresh the 6 speed driveshaft prior to it going into the car. My carrier support bearing and CV joint on the driveshaft were toast as the center bearing had rips and the CV joint didn't really move smoothly or freely. I got to work taking this apart. There is a 18mm bolt that hold the rear and front shafts together by the u-joint. I used a prybar and a thin open-ended wrench to get to it. Be careful how you hold the prybar and where you put your fingers in the u-joint at times; I wacked myself in the face once and pinched my finger! ALSO, MARK THE FRONT AND REAR SHAFTS! BE SURE TO DO THIS! I thought I had done this and it turns out I did it incorrectly. I only had marked the rear but not the front. I had taken a video of me taking it apart and guesstimated where the original location was. We will see if this causes any vibration.
I just took a drift to bang out the center bearing carefully while not marring the driveshaft or damaging the splines. The CV joint was a bit more difficult as the snap ring doesn't have the holes to insert a snap ring plier. I had to carefully spread it open with my tool and try to not let it go flying. Once that was done, I was just able to cut the dust boot clamp off and slide the joint off. To install, I used a 35mm socket to tap the center bearing back in its place, put the spacer that goes between the center bearing and rear half of the driveshaft and tightened up the 18mm bolt. The CV joint, I just packed it with Mobil 1 bearing grease, slipped it back onto the splines and put the snap ring back by slightly spreading it and tapping it back in with a hammer.
I have yet to install the CV cover that is supposedly pressed. Need to figure out how to do that. Will update if I figure something out. I'm running out of things to do while I'm waiting for the shifter assembly to arrive. The wait is killing me! Homestretch! *not sure why the photos are sideways/upside down. download them and rotate them if you need to see them better.*
I also replaced all four O2 sensors since it was the perfect time to do so. Getting to the rears were pretty straight forward but getting to the forward ones was a pain! To get to it, I had to remove the side covers near the rear of the inner fender to gain access from the side. I used a O2 socket with a 3/8th swivel head ratchet to break them loose. Be sure to route the cables in their appropriate clips to keep them away from the exhaust manifold. I reused the old O2 sensor bracket on the driver side of the transmission to hold the connector and the cable in place.
For the passenger side, I attached a bracket on the transmission at another location to hold the main O2 sensor harness away from the exhaust. I also test fitted the custom cooler lines. I cut down the stock M3 lines and welded some -6 AN fitting and just capped them for the meantime while I figure out a way to run a transmission oil cooler in the front and a thermostatically controlled switch to power the factory trans pump. While they do fit and probably work without a hitch, they are rubbing up again the trans tunnel so I will re-do these prior to the car running. I have them mounted in the stock location where they would be in the M3. It's a nice fit in that location as it hold many of the wires back and routes the lines up and away from the header. Just need to tweak it a bit to get it right.
I also took this time while waiting for the shifter components to refresh the 6 speed driveshaft prior to it going into the car. My carrier support bearing and CV joint on the driveshaft were toast as the center bearing had rips and the CV joint didn't really move smoothly or freely. I got to work taking this apart. There is a 18mm bolt that hold the rear and front shafts together by the u-joint. I used a prybar and a thin open-ended wrench to get to it. Be careful how you hold the prybar and where you put your fingers in the u-joint at times; I wacked myself in the face once and pinched my finger! ALSO, MARK THE FRONT AND REAR SHAFTS! BE SURE TO DO THIS! I thought I had done this and it turns out I did it incorrectly. I only had marked the rear but not the front. I had taken a video of me taking it apart and guesstimated where the original location was. We will see if this causes any vibration.
I just took a drift to bang out the center bearing carefully while not marring the driveshaft or damaging the splines. The CV joint was a bit more difficult as the snap ring doesn't have the holes to insert a snap ring plier. I had to carefully spread it open with my tool and try to not let it go flying. Once that was done, I was just able to cut the dust boot clamp off and slide the joint off. To install, I used a 35mm socket to tap the center bearing back in its place, put the spacer that goes between the center bearing and rear half of the driveshaft and tightened up the 18mm bolt. The CV joint, I just packed it with Mobil 1 bearing grease, slipped it back onto the splines and put the snap ring back by slightly spreading it and tapping it back in with a hammer.
I have yet to install the CV cover that is supposedly pressed. Need to figure out how to do that. Will update if I figure something out. I'm running out of things to do while I'm waiting for the shifter assembly to arrive. The wait is killing me! Homestretch! *not sure why the photos are sideways/upside down. download them and rotate them if you need to see them better.*