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Yep, 75W80 for the transmission (in place of D4 ATF in case that was specified, think that depends on the year, or maybe a ZF vs. Getrag thing, can't recall exactly), and 75W90 WITH limited slip friction modifiers for the differential.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
So with the help from you guys I’ve started a list. The car is going to a BMW specialist next week for some work and a thorough look over. Before I jump right in on replacing the clutch I’m going to start with a clutch bleed and new trans fluid. My car is going to be down for a while I just sent out my cluster for the dead pixels (only 120$ and taking it out was easy) I’m going to start with the stuff that has failed. Like the valve cover gaskets, and change the plugs while in there and also inspect hydraulic and vacuum lines, belts, pulleys ect. Being my main concern is the engine. I’m not sure how to address the cold start 3 second Vanos rattle? Solenoids? Accumulator? I’m not to familiar with the system. My Rear window regularator is broken. My front diff bushing is shot. My parking brake is toast, No record on The last fuel filter or O2 sensor change. So far this is what I know. I’ll keep the thread updated
 

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Good start, cluster pixel rebuild is WELL worth that $120. The rest of your list seems good too. Are you planning to do most of this yourself or have it done? Most of the jobs you mention are pretty DIY friendly, except maybe the valve cover gaskets, which are a royal PITA and in my experience very difficult even to get the new ones to not leak. Front diff bushing is also a pretty big job if inexperienced. For vanos, follow the vanos solenoid DIY here on the board. Easy to do yourself, just a few seals, and see if/how much that improves things. More than that I'm choosing to live with a little startup rattle, as a more thorough job is both highly invasive and expensive, so for that I'm going to wait until there's another reason for me to need to be going that deep into the heads before tackling (like new timing chain guides or something). Replace the rear window regulator, not that bad, and your parking brake is much more likely just in need of adjustment rather than broken. Do the fuel filter, also easy, but again I'd say hold off on the O2 sensors until you have reason to believe they are misbehaving, rather than just on a whim.
Edit: here's a link to the Vanos guide: DIY: - VANOS Solenoid Maintenance_Full DIY
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I’d rather hold off on the valve cover gaskets to be honest. Most of my oil seepage is at the top and only around the bolt grommets not the valve cover gasket itself. I’m not really going to be doing most of the work myself. I’ll try the parking brake adjustment first. And I mention O2 sensors because maybe once a month I’ll throw a generic P0420 code (cats) although I doubt my cats have failed. So I figured I’d try to change the O2 sensors. I also wonder how much of a difference the front diff bushing makes when new and I do not know the condition of the diff subframe bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
My progress consists of new rotors and pads all around (Zimmerman/Jurid), front calipers rebuilt with new pistons, seals, guide pins and bushings, brake bleed all around with fresh fluid, clutch bleed, new tranny fluid, Chain tensioner, new T stat temp sensor and fresh coolant. Oil Temp sensor, air filters, cluster rebuild, window regulator. Car is going in on Monday for new VCGs, plugs, MAFs, O2 sensors, fuel filter, new power steering reservoir with 4 new power steering hoses, I’ve decided to hold off on the clutch until it fails which is making me hold off on the diff bushings and mounts. The exhaust and diff need to be dropped to do the mounts so I’m holding off because if the exhaust has to come out I want to do the clutch too but the clutch hasn’t failed yet. Car is currently sitting at 227k It is my daily
 
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