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Discussion Starter #1
I had my M5 at Road Atlanta on 3-24-01 for the first time since opening up the brake ducts. Believe me, it makes a substantial difference. When I was at Road Atlanta back in November 2000 the brakes would fade to almost nothing after 4 to 5 laps. This time, I ran the car even harder and experience no brake fad whatsoever. The only thing I have done is open up the brake ducts and put SuperBlue brake fluid in. Stock pads and rotors. Give it a try. it works !

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Nothing like a hands-on, before and after comparison. Thanks, Parkerfe. I think this is the most important upgrade you can do if you want to track your car.

Out of curiosity, how did the outside temperature compare between your before and after runs?
 

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Could you post a step by step how to do it as well as all the correct part numbers? Thank you in advance.///

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D. Guilburt
 

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I gotta agree with Frank-- there were three of us M5ers at Road Atlanta on Saturday, and nobody had issues with fade! My first time on that track (last April, at 1400 miles) I encountered fade (pedal-to-floor! kind) four laps into my third session. Now, by opening up the ducts, I had no such problems. I also upgraded fluid (SuperBlue), front pads (Mintex C-Tech) and ran Goodridge stainless lines. Bottom line: more air to the rotors, and a higher T fluid works wonders!

It's interesting to note that we had three stages of cosmetic appeal: bmurphy had the all-out body-colored splitter, straight out of the M-Technic book (sharp!); I had the M-Technic 'web insert' installed, but no splitter (still workin' on that one, DrKev!), and Parkerfe had the OEM grill drilled out to feed the channels.

BTW, bmurphy had the Stage II Dinan suspension set-up, and he was experiencing considerably less oversteer (per the cornerworkers and instructors on Turn 7) than either Frank or I. Sounds like that could be next....

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'00 Carbon Black/Black All-Leather/Sportive
101421
 

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Discussion Starter #6
C4M5, The way I done it involves no new parts. I drilled multiple holes in the outside blanked out panels on each side of the grill. One hole per square. I then turned the wheel all the way to the side to get to the front panel of the wheel well. I then drilled several holes directly behind the existing duct in order to get a small keyhold saw in there to cut it out to match the size of the duct. Thats it. You can now through the holes in the grill and see down the existing ducts directly to the brake rotors. It is a straight shot. The whole job took less than one hour.

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Originally posted by Parkerfe:
C4M5, The way I done it involves no new parts. I drilled multiple holes in the outside blanked out panels on each side of the grill. One hole per square. I then turned the wheel all the way to the side to get to the front panel of the wheel well. I then drilled several holes directly behind the existing duct in order to get a small keyhold saw in there to cut it out to match the size of the duct. Thats it. You can now through the holes in the grill and see down the existing ducts directly to the brake rotors. It is a straight shot. The whole job took less than one hour.

Hey Parkerfe...

Any chance that u took a few photos of the whole process??
 

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Instead of doing it the "legit" way, what about just taking drilling holes in the plates, as well as cutting out holes in the panels next to the foglights, and then taking flex tubing and routing it directly to the brake area?

Personally I think it would be easier and you don't even have to pull the bumper off. Opinions?

--Dan
 

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Sorry Guys, my car wasn't ready in time due to some issues with replacing my TriFlo exhaust system. The jerks at the dealership thought it was a stock system even when I told them that it was a TriFlo exhaust they needed to replace. That delayed everything a few days but as a result I have a brand new exhaust on both sides (all nice and shiny again). B&B will not fabricate just one side of the exhaust so my insurance had to pay for a completely new exhaust!

Anyhow, is there going to be a general Atlanta meet? Motorbahn in Roswell is having their raffle for a 2001 M3 at the end of this month, $100/ticket, max of 750 tickets to be sold (only 300 or so sold since the Petit Lemans), and the raffle goes on regardless! We could meet there!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
bobafett, The oem brake ducts are not located nor have any relationship to the foglights. The panels that you need to drill out are in the outer most part of the grill itself. The oem brake ducts are directly behind those panels. After drilling them out, you will need to cut a square hole in each of the inner fender panels in the proper location so it matches up where the oem ducts are. You do not need to remove the bumper to do this. The oem brake ducts are already there from the factory. You just have to open up both ends so air can flow through.
 

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Parker - I'm still a little confused. One of the posts showed photo with FOUR new duct pieces - two long ones that would connect up to the existing ducts, and two shorter "flanges" that looked like they might connect the front of these ducts to the grill area.

I know about the following parts:

P.N. #51-11-7-890-013 AIR BRAKE CHANNEL FRONT LEFT
P.N. #51-11-7-890-014 AIR BRAKE CHANNEL FRONT RIGHT
51-11-2-495-280 SPL Insert - $31.95
51-41-8-201-057 SPL Clip - $0.11 each Get a few, you'll need them
51-11-7-893-048 SPL Web Center$36.75

SO - where are these flanges? Do they come with the long ones?

Also, do I need the last 3 bits if I plan to adapt these to the stock grill and drill out the plates?

Thanks -

/Greg
 

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Greg: perhaps you'd like to try my approach (I'm doing it on thursday and testng it on thunderhill on friday):

Buy the left and right air channels, and lop off the extensions, but use that scoop to attach it to the plate. Drill holes in all of the small sections of the plate and connect. Take the open end and using 3" flex tubing, route air DIRECTLY to the brakes (as opposed to pushing it in the general area with this).

I'll have an update with pictures probably on saturday.

--Dan
 

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Greg - I think the comment further down the page mentioned that the shorter 'flange' pieces are the long ducts, just photographed at a different angle.

That's how I interpreted it, in any case.

Dan - would you like to borrow my air shear and cut some holes in the rear fenders for ducts to the rear brakes? I've got some plastic NACA ducts that should work nicely. You'll have to bring your own pop-rivet tool to install them though...


Seriously...I'm doing major surgery on my Mustang to get air to the brakes, but the ducts on the M5 are about as far as I care to take it on that car.

[This message has been edited by JEM (edited 28 March 2001).]
 

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OK, I have another question, How would the openning of the brake ducts in a "homemade" fashion improve the car as a whole? I can see the overall value of improved brake cooling. Using a drill and a keyhole saw anywhere close to surfaces that can rust is looking for trouble. The factory solution is not going to diminish the value/performance of the car or give rise to the question; what other "Mickey Mouse" modifications have you attempted? IMHO///

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D. Guilburt
 

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I think Dan's approach has merit, and he's not talking about radical surgery (unless I misunderstand what he's doing, the only parts he's cutting are (a) the grille insert which is cheap/easily replaceable anyway and (b) the new ducts.

I just don't feel like going down that road on this car, as it won't spend enough time on track to warrant it.

Odd, then, that I'm now considering the mov'it kit, after another post that indicated you only need a 6mm spacer...the issue here is that I just don't find the pedal feel of the M5 brakes to be particularly reassuring.


[This message has been edited by JEM (edited 28 March 2001).]
 

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Originally posted by Parkerfe:
Sorry, no photos
Parkerfe...sounds like your car may be a bit camera-shy!?... perhaps you didn't take pictures as you worked, but how 'bout a photo of the final result? You know... I'd like to see the front air-dam/grill where you drilled the openings.
Thanks!
 

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I am looking at a copy of the BMW microfich that contains the "lower left & right engine compartment covers WITHOUT brake air channel" (left PN#51-71-2-498-990, right PN#51-71-2-498-989).Does anybody know what the PN# is WITH the brake air channel? I believe these two parts are required (along with the others already mentioned) for an OEM brake duct conversion. My dealer could not find them. They should cost between $55.00 and $75.00 each. Thanx

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D. Guilburt
 

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Russ, not all of us own a Digital camera and there is nothing starnge with that and even if you do own such a camera or a normal camera you might not have the time to post and/or digitize pics.

Parkerfee, glad to hear it worked as expected!
Wonder what the real reason for BMW to not putting it there from the beginning?

Cheers,
/Johan

[This message has been edited by johann (edited 27 March 2001).]
 

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Greg-
JEM is correct in that the photos you referenced merely show two angles of the same two parts, the AIR BRAKE CHANNEL (L&R).

All-
If you're considering drilling out the OEM grill 'insert,' then the above two parts are all you need. No matter what you decide, (M-Technic or home-spun), you WILL have to cut rectangular-shaped holes in the wheel well to allow the resident (aluminum) ducts to exit. I used a Dremel Moto-Tool to cut these to match the exit shape.

C4M5-
The only parts you need--with one small exception--are the ones listed below. Believe me, I did this myself. The "web insert" is the actual grill piece with the extreme L and R ends opened up to feed the ducts. The "web center" is the horizontal splitter (see SVTWEB's or MarkM5's photos for reference) that can be painted body color. The exception to the parts listed is this: you will need to purchase about 8-10 plastic pop-rivets that affix the plastic bumper fascia to the aluminum subframe. You WILL destroy these in removing the bumper (by design), and will need to replace them upon installation. I will try to find the official P/N, but I know it's a common fastener, also used on the 540.

Hope this helps!

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