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Hello everybody, I need your help. Would you please tell me what is the normal operating OIL temperature? I remember that it’s always been 87-92 C max. If you push hard it could be not more then 95C max. Now it’s always 99-100 C. Everything works normally, antifreeze is ok, vent. Is ok, radiators are clean. I don’t really know what’s going on. But I am sure that smth. is wrong. When the temp. is high I feel loose of power. Even temp of coolant was always little bit below 12 clock. Now it stands strait on 12. Sorry for my English, but I think you understand me.

Rgds,

Temuri
 

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My oil temp has never passed the middle - 210F - even in sweltering hot and humid North Carolina with the A/C on.
 

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mine depends on ambient temp and load. In the summer, my oil temp is routinely just past 210 (100c). On track, above 90F ambient, it'll get up to 250+F.
Interestingly, i just got off the phone with my contact at dinan, asking about the oil cooler. He asked which oil i use, and my car's production date. I told him 10/60 and 6/00. He said my car can use thinner oil, and i should try 5/30. I'd probably see a 20F degree drop in oil temps! What the, i asked about the "great oil debate" and he said 5/30 would be fine.
Mike
 

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210 degrees F was the max my car has gone. That was with 100 degree F air temp. with the a/c at full blast and aggressive driving:noSMG:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mottati said:
mine depends on ambient temp and load. In the summer, my oil temp is routinely just past 210 (100c). On track, above 90F ambient, it'll get up to 250+F.
Interestingly, i just got off the phone with my contact at dinan, asking about the oil cooler. He asked which oil i use, and my car's production date. I told him 10/60 and 6/00. He said my car can use thinner oil, and i should try 5/30. I'd probably see a 20F degree drop in oil temps! What the, i asked about the "great oil debate" and he said 5/30 would be fine.
Mike
I did noticed that when I changed oil from 5/30 to 10/60 temperature started getting up. Maybe this is the reason. Car is 2001/06 years old :M5thumbs: I’ll try to change oil back on 5/30. When I bought it 1 year ago in Germany dialer used 5/30. What do you think if I change oil on 5/30 temp will go down? I think lower temp. is better for car. :cheers:
 

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This is my experience testing different oils;

Average Oil Temp;

Royal Purple 20W50 API Certified 170-185F
Royal Purple Racing 51 20W50 170-185F
LUCAS 20W50 API Certified 185-205F

Royal Purple really keeps the engine cool!

Any Mobil1 users here can provide info for the M5?
 

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KingM5 said:
Any Mobil1 users here can provide info for the M5?

I've run mobil 1 0w40, the only mobil 1 (at the time, at least) that was bmw LL01 certified. It ran similar temps to bmw LL synthetic 5./30, which is about 15-20F lower than tws, around 180. In warm weather, my car will hit 210-220 with some higher loads, with the thin oil, even hotter with the thick stuff. Synthetics can handle the temps.
I would imagine you would occasionally want temps over 210F to burn off moisture/condensation in the oil. Constant 170-180, i would think, would allow water to stay in the system.
Mike
 

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Mike:
Is Dinan ever going to offer the oil cooler as a stand alone option?
Regards,


Interestingly, i just got off the phone with my contact at dinan, asking about the oil cooler. He asked which oil i use, and my car's production date. I told him 10/60 and 6/00. He said my car can use thinner oil, and i should try 5/30. I'd probably see a 20F degree drop in oil temps! What the, i asked about the "great oil debate" and he said 5/30 would be fine.
Mike[/quote]
 

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howler said:
Mike:
Is Dinan ever going to offer the oil cooler as a stand alone option?
Regards,
]
Highly unlikely. I asked Steve Dinan about it, he said it would likely cost about $4k, installed and they'd probably sell 5-6, and get bashed about the price at the same time. I do not know if it is even a standard fitment on the S3. IF i wanted one, they would do it as a one-off, but they do not have a plan to sell it as a kit. A lot of it is labor, the remove the OE water/oil heat exchanger, which requires removing the plenum, and perhaps some throttle bodies. THey plug the OE openings for the factory cooler. This removes a "heat sink" from under the plenum, resulting in cooler intake temps, and a handful more hp. They make new lines, with a thermostat, going from the filter area to the cooler and back. They modify a new belly pan with some ventwork to allow airflow to the cooler. Another bonus is the airflow to the cooler results in additional downforce on the front end at speed. It is a really nice, elegant set up, but imho, you'd need to be a pretty serious track junkie to make this mod worthwhile.
Mike
 
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