[dakine]

Hi guys. It is time to do an oil change. The last time I did this i could not get the bolt to tighten. Obviously it was over tightenned by the mechanic during the previous previous oil change. You guys know the drill...i had to shell out $400 for a new oil pan. This is the main reason why I want to do all my own oil changes. Anyway as far as the drain bolt, can this think be just hand tightenned? I do not have a torque wrench to get the precise settings and I am afraid of over tightening and damaging another oil pan drain thread. Any advice much appreciative.
Cheers,
JP

 

[mamsterla]

A lot of people recommend getting a pump and pulling the oil up from the dipstick - you will never have to mess with the oil pan nut again.

 

[68FB]

Why not just buy a torque wrench? They're pretty cheap. And useful.

 

[chowdah]

There is an oil pan fix in the DIY Guidepost sticky.

 

[E55AMG2]

You dont need a torque wrench. Its very simple....clean the threads on the bolt and wipe down the threads in the pan and then thread the bolt till it seats by hand, then tighten 45 degrees or so. It only needs to be snug.

 

[dakine]

Thanks folks. I think I'll pick up a torque wrench to be safe. I saw the pan fix diy and that is just too much work.
Cheers,
JP

 

[feeblebob]

My two cents, for what it's worth, a torque wrench will be cheaper than a new oil pan, so to me a no-brainer. My low torque wrench was about £25 I think and is a good, solid bit of kit. Not disagreeing with E55AMG2 though, or the 'oil change by suction' from above method, seems to be popular on here too, and doesn't miss much, apparently the same amount as draining from below.

 

[CarbonCopy]

I have always hand-tightened on all my cars without any problem. You can always re-tighten in a few days if dripping occurs. The only difference that the E39 M5 pan seems to have is that it has fewer full threads due to the cut-out on the inside to evacuate the last drop of oil, and the location/shape usually preventing overdrilling and tapping to a larger size plug (without insert) - as a last resort. Also, of course is the higher price M5 spec replacement pan. So this makes a mistake a higher risk endeavor.
As an aside, I've always wondered is sucking the oil from the dipstick port has been found to be equivalent in the long-run. Any risks to doing this? I wonder if all particulates really get removed this way....

 

[dakine]

I am also curious about the suction procedure as compared to the drip from below. I have used the suction to replace the tranny oil and will do the same shortly to replace the diff but I still wonder how much is being left behind using this method.

 

[chowdah]

I have always hand-tightened on all my cars without any problem. You can always re-tighten in a few days if dripping occurs.

I do this too.

IIRC, the member who did the DIY on the oilpan has also posted interesting observations on where the suction method via dipstick would occur.

 

[Need4Spd]

There is also another plug in the pan, which is much beefier but probably doesn't result in as complete an evacuation of the old oil as the "right" plug (under the trap door in the underbody panel). To get to it, you need to remove the underbody air flow panel. After suffering a stripped pan plug and having to replace the pan, I've been using a vacuum pump instead.

 

[E55AMG2]

I am also curious about the suction procedure as compared to the drip from below. I have used the suction to replace the tranny oil and will do the same shortly to replace the diff but I still wonder how much is being left behind using this method.

Using an extractor is just as effective as a drain if the oil is hot. The oil MUST be hot so that everything is in suspension. I use a Jabsco electric extractor designed for boats. Out of curiosity, I opened the drain after extracting and all that came out was what was stuck to the drain bolt/in the drain bolt threads. I also extract what's left over in the oil filter housing...but that's just me being anal.

If you do want to do a traditional drain, remember that less is more when it comes to tightening the drain bolt. By hand is best, then snug slightly with a socket. Most techs are interested in speed, not care (most, not all) so they'll do the drain bolt with an electric impact and strip it in no time.

 

[TMcNasty]

Get yourself a $50 torque wrench. The owners/techs before you didn't use one and you paid the price for that. Don't be like those bums. You'll be able to use it for the oil filter cap too. Once you own it you'll find yourself using it more than you think. In all honesty the oil extractor method is also fine. I did the pan repair DIY and I can tell you the dipstick tube is right over the lowest point of the reservoir. That's why it works so well.
A torque wrench is actually cheaper than an extractor.

 

[tradin1]

dont use a torque wrench for this, unless its an electronic torque wrench. i find those things to be really unreliable for stuff with minimal torque. just hand tighten it and go 30-45 degrees, use your best judgement. if you cant evaluate how much to tighten a oil nut, then it may be best to not mess with it at all. im not trying to be rude, but thats the brutal truth.

 

[dakine]

Decided to get my rear ball joints replaced and one of the rear control arms that was leaking, so I decided to let the dealership change the oil while they were working. Cost me $135 for oil change so I thought a good deal considering the cost of oil and filter. I am still worried about the bolt but too late to worry now.

 

[Tortuga]

Agree about hand tightening; Some of the torque values on the S62 seem a bit high...The spark plugs also seemed a bit high when considering the consequences of stripping...

I use a stubby ratchet on the drain plug and just give it a good solid final twist; no problem for 60 odd thousand miles and a dozen oil changes. The suction method seems a bit dodgy, the only way you know if you didn't get all the oil is when it fills early, then you have a mix of old and new? Unless you have a sight guage or mark the vessel somehow I guess...

 

[mrfeel1933]

there is no subtitute for the right tool for the job. using the wrong tool and guessing is just asking for touble. very expensive trouble when it come to our cars.

 

[JohnAnthony]

In all honesty the oil extractor method is also fine. I did the pan repair DIY and I can tell you the dipstick tube is right over the lowest point of the reservoir. That's why it works so well.

i think the drain plug is the lowest point, but it has a nipple
looking at this picture the front of the car is at the top of the picture and the back is toward the bottom right? were doe the dipstick land? a little OFF the TOP-RIGHT corner?

Agree about hand tightening; Some of the torque values on the S62 seem a bit high...The spark plugs also seemed a bit high when considering the consequences of stripping...

the TIS doesn't explicitly give you the torque settings

 

[E55AMG2]

Agree about hand tightening; Some of the torque values on the S62 seem a bit high...The spark plugs also seemed a bit high when considering the consequences of stripping...

I use a stubby ratchet on the drain plug and just give it a good solid final twist; no problem for 60 odd thousand miles and a dozen oil changes. The suction method seems a bit dodgy, the only way you know if you didn't get all the oil is when it fills early, then you have a mix of old and new? Unless you have a sight guage or mark the vessel somehow I guess...

Extractors are graduated, you can see exactly how much liquid is in there. I get almost 8L out of my M5 and 8.5 out of my X5 with the extractor. You may have your doubts, but they work very very well.

 

[JohnAnthony]

Extractors are graduated, you can see exactly how much liquid is in there. I get almost 8L out of my M5 and 8.5 out of my X5 with the extractor. You may have your doubts, but they work very very well.

How the hell do you pull 8? I only got 6.25L - crudely measured - so probably closer to 6.5/6.5+L