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I have noticed a broken oil filter housing mount on my car (and fixed it) and then today I saw the exact same problem on another M5, so I post some info.

I think the reason the rubber mount broke might be stress from when tightening the oil filter cap with a torque wrench without holding the housing with the other hand thus letting the rubber mounts absorb the torque.

The oil filter housing is held in place by two rubber mounts. There are two screws moulded into each rubber mount.

Th eoil filter housing is secured to the rubber mount by two nuts. the nuts are reusable.

The rubber mountings are screwed into nuts which are welded to the holder.
To remove an unbroken but cracked rubber mount, just grip its top side screw with a pair of pliers and turn it.

To remove a broken rubber mount, grip the screw on the BOTTOM SIDE of the holder with a suitably small pair of pliers. (If you try to grip the broken rubber part on the top side, you will probably just scratch the holder. Bin there...)

BMW part number : Rubber mount 11 42 1 407 441 (2 pcs)



The steering servo fluid reservoir is located next to the oil filter housing. It is mounted in a similair way. On both cars the rubber mounts for thr servo fluid reservoir showed cracks.

BMW part number is 64 12 1 365 602 (2 pcs)


David
 

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This is very common on the E39 V8s. I think I have replaced 3 on my M5 alone, and countless others. It is an important thing to check out as without the oil filter housing pulls on the oil lines and can create a massive oil leak. Thanks for posting this David.
 

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It says in the BMW workshop manual to either hand-tighthen or torque to 25 Nm with a torque wrench.

With both methods you will need to counterbalance the torque by holding the oil filter housing with your hand, or there will be considerable stress on the rubber mounts.

David
 

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I just had my oil changed at a local dealer last weekend.

I go to check the oil the following Tuesday and find the same problem. It was clearly done when the tech tightened the cap.

Returned to the dealer and I am waiting for the part.

I was actually considering trying to fix the problem by drilling through the remainig rubber on the broken side and pushing a longer screw through the hole and using the old bolt. but then again, if I did not break it why should I try and fix it.

funny thing is I was wondering if this happens frequently since the design seems open to this type of failure. Does anyone know why BMW wanted to have the filter housing mounted on rubber bushings instead of being attached to the block like an E36?

Thanks, Michael.
 

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Gotta love this board. I would have never thought to check that until when I went to change my oil in another 6k miles or so as I just had Inspection II done at the dealer. Well, I go out to check and what do I find, one of the mounts is broken. It was not broken when I changed the oil 7k miles ago, so the dealer did it.

I'm just going to fix it myself though. A few bucks in parts is worth the hours I'll have to waste with the dealer.
 

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Was going to start a new thread about this, but thank god I didn't... Did the oil on my girls car and found both mounts broken. I had to tie wrap the filter housing for now, but I need those mounts. Anywhere other than BMW, or maybe online ?????
Tom
 

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I've had to replace mine, too. One broke and the other was marginal. It's easy to get oil on the rubber, which over time weakens them.

No place to get them other than the dealer (including those who sell on the Internet or by mail order).
 

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Was going to start a new thread about this, but thank god I didn't... Did the oil on my girls car and found both mounts broken. I had to tie wrap the filter housing for now, but I need those mounts. Anywhere other than BMW, or maybe online ?????
Tom
dealer has them for next to nothing, from a price standpoint. This is one of those items that is not worth the time to shop around for.
 

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dealer has them for next to nothing, from a price standpoint. This is one of those items that is not worth the time to shop around for.
The same thing happens on my wife's '98 540i every so often, so I keep one of each on hand...there's been some discussion in the past that ignoring it can lead to a broken oil line and serious unpleasantness so at the very least if you see one broken, do the wire-tie thing until you can replace the rubber mount.
 

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Found I have one broken and the other one intact; no idea when it happened, just routine checking after service (oil change and inspection). I plan to replace both and reuse the nuts.

Looking closely at the job at hand, it looks like it should be a matter of loosen the nuts, slowly pull the casting away a short distance, replace the bolts w/rubber mount, and tighten the nuts.

But, at close inspection it looks like I need to first lift the casting up, off of a pin that helps it align and seat at the lower (below) end of the bracket, before pulling it away from the top of the bracket (to get at the bolt holes with the new bolts). Did I miss anything in the order of events?

Thanks,

Peter
 

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Found I have one broken and the other one intact; no idea when it happened, just routine checking after service (oil change and inspection). I plan to replace both and reuse the nuts.

Looking closely at the job at hand, it looks like it should be a matter of loosen the nuts, slowly pull the casting away a short distance, replace the bolts w/rubber mount, and tighten the nuts.

But, at close inspection it looks like I need to first lift the casting up, off of a pin that helps it align and seat at the lower (below) end of the bracket, before pulling it away from the top of the bracket (to get at the bolt holes with the new bolts). Did I miss anything in the order of events?

Thanks,

Peter
The bottom of the rubber mount threads into a welded on female ... you should remove the remaining piece of rubber mount by gripping the top of it with a vice grip or pair of pliers.
 

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A tad tardy in the reply (thanks for the info and advice), and getting the work done. I finally took after this task since only one of the mounts appeared broken and my drive time is light.

One bolt/rubber was sheared and the other had ‘stack lean’. Looking at the parts, I’m betting this was in this condition for some time; the most recent oil change and inspection probably put the one bolt over the edge and it sheared. Like Bill (bgregg), “Wish I had read this post sooner.”

Peter
 

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Found mine broken yesterday.

Do I just need #20 and #21 from the picture?

 

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#20 will do you.
 

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Was just going to post the same thing, last two changes i have hand tightened the cap only...One hand on the housing and one on the cap twisting opposite to tight; have had no leaks...
 
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