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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

with all the discussion of lubrication and thrown rods...is there anywhere that lays out the steps on changing oil?

Thanks :M5eyes:
 

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Try this:

http://community.webshots.com/album/63104500FMOJSP

Its an extremely easy process to change the oil and filter. What I have also started is sending a sample of the oil to a firm called BlackStonelabs (www.blackstone-labs.com) for analysis, which runs $20. Not sure if its going to help me in the long run but I am willing to forgo a few lattes to see how the oil is doing. I have also gotten sample reports from other board members to see how the #'s compare.
 

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bbfl said:
with all the discussion of lubrication and thrown rods...is there anywhere that lays out the steps on changing oil?
First off, haul thyself down to the dealer and get thyself a case of the Castrol TWS 10W-60 oil. As far as I'm concerned it's the Right Stuff for the S62 motor.

While you're at it you'll need a filter. It comes in a bag with an O-ring and a copper washer. If you've got some lead-time you can order this stuff from Pacific BMW.

Have a look at the rubber mounts that retain the oil filter canister on the fender and if any are broken, buy replacements. For that matter buy a couple spares you'll need them eventually.

Put the car up on ramps or whatever your preferred safe approach for getting under the car is. Run it just long enough to get the oil-temp gauge off the cold peg. Philips screwdriver to pop the quarter-turn fastener on the drain-plug trap door. Pan under the plug, unscrew the plug (17mm socket? I can't remember...) and let the oil drain.

While the oil's draining go get the following items:

  • A wrench that'll fit on the hex on top of the oil-filter canister (box or open-end wrench or big adjustable or medium-size pipe wrench)
  • The new filter and the rubber O-ring (take them out of the bag.)
  • A gallon-size Ziploc or equivalent bag
  • A small screwdriver
  • A rag.

Loosen the top of the oil-filter canister with the wrench enough that you can unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. I like to put the rag on the hex so as not to chew it up (but then I use a pipe wrench...) Use as little force as possible.

Take the plastic bag in your left hand, unscrew the canister top with the right, lift the top and filter assembly a little and let it drip into the canister. Once you're down to a few drips, stick the filter into the bag and grab the bag and filter with your left hand and pull the filter off the top (or the top off the filter, if you prefer...)

Wipe any stray drips off the canister top. Take the small screwdriver and pry the O-ring off the top. Be careful not to ding the plastic. Drop the old O-ring in the plastic bag, close it up and put it aside.

Install the new O-ring on the top. Snap the new filter on. Have a look down in the housing - by now the oil should have drained. Slide the new filter down into the canister, and screw the top down. Snug it gently with the wrench.

Look at the rubber mounts that retain the canister and make sure none are broken. If one is broken you'll need a 10mm socket and a small pair of Vise-Grips or a small pipe wrench to change it - unbolt the filter canister, move it out of the way, remove and replace the broken mount, reinstall the canister.

Open the baggie with the copper washer and change the washer on the drain plug. Scoot back under the car with the rag, wipe the drain plug hole and screw the plug back in, tighten it (but don't play Jiffy Lube Guy and heave on it until you mangle the threads in the pan) and close up the trapdoor.

Grab a funnel and 8 bottles of the TWS and fill.

I've got to run to a meeting so I'll leave someone else to explain the service-indicator reset...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
holy...thanks for the photos and writeup! If someone could explain how to reset the indicator...im done!


:M5eyes:
 

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Great post JEM sounds like you have done this before
. Doing the oil filter while the oil is draining allows the dirty oil in the oil filter canister to drain back to the pan and out the drain plug. A step that a lot of people don't do.

Joe
 

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This is about the easiest car to change oil on I've ever had. No burning your hand reaching deep into the engine well for limited access to an oil filter you can't get out without spilling hot oil all over yourself. Piece of cake.

On the "highly recommended" front - if you haven't bought an oil-catch pan in the last many years, get thee to the nearest Kragen and get one of the new fangled ones with the closed, inward sloping top - hole in the middle, plug for that hole, and a pour spout on the side. The oil all drains into the interior, which you then seal with the plug. No sloshing out of the pan problems. There's even a little ridge so you can let your oil filter drain into the pan too. Easy transport to the local recycler (again, I go to Kragen) without spilling all over the place.
 

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Osodog said:
Try this:

http://community.webshots.com/album/63104500FMOJSP

Its an extremely easy process to change the oil and filter. What I have also started is sending a sample of the oil to a firm called BlackStonelabs (www.blackstone-labs.com) for analysis, which runs $20. Not sure if its going to help me in the long run but I am willing to forgo a few lattes to see how the oil is doing. I have also gotten sample reports from other board members to see how the #'s compare.
Thanks for the link, very useful:cheers:
 
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