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Discussion Starter #21
Ok. Some off topic but could you take a picture of the MCU on the DME? Need to know if i can use my flasher on it in case a update of the DME fails with winkfp..

Are you sure the IBS gives current information? Om my E70 I can read out current draw snd change current but on this I couldn't find any of this info. Will give it a go and send you the info later tonight.

Really nice links you got there and the AC measurement of the charge voltage looks just like my earlier measurements from when the alternator was working the first 20minutes. I still think I can conclude with my alternator overheating due to the broken bearing and that it's the reason for the cut off. Will be nice to see if this is the reason when I get the new one to put in.

Regarding his bus measurements it's hard to tell much from that short sample but it looks like some kind of PWM signal. This BSD bus system is used for more in the BMW world also. If I recall correctly they use this bus for the glow control units on M57 Diesel engines also.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I removed some of the goop that was on the die and this is how it looks like up close. I didn't want to use any solvents for the cleaning so this is only cleaned with a dry cloth. It doesn't look like it has any inprint that can be read out tho. tempted to crack it open and have a look on the inside but not sure how to do that and preserve most of it while doing so :p
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Yay! Got home today after a week at work and the alternator was at the post office. As soon as I put my kid to bed it was straight out in the garage and putting it in there then to do a quick testdrive for 40-45minutes. It charges now all the time and it didn't throw any errors when I scanned after the run. Looks like the problem is solved. I didn't hook up the oscilloscope again but I suspect it looks like my other alternators output really.. It also amazes me that this alternator is the easiest one I've ever changed on a engine before and that is with a V10 in there. Hooray for BMW engineers :)

I also replaced the carbon canister/filter for tank vent and now my idle is smooth like it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
yeah there is but I think it was over complicating things. The change is pretty easy and you will see how it is as you go. I will make a simplified version here

1. disconnect the battery
2. remove the plastic covers in below the engine (front one)
3. loosen all the hoses that goes under there and the accumulator. Accumulator is easiest to remove once you loose then oil hose. You will see this when you get there.
4. loosen the belt by using a 13mm on the nut on the automatic tightener and slipping it off there. Once it is off its easy to take it out of the alternator. Do not remove the belt just unhook it.
5. loosen the alternator. Once it's loose take it down so you can remove the two wires going into it. Not the orientation of the B+ thick cable for install later.
6. install the new alternator, 13Nm only for the B+ terminal. Slides straight in without any troubles.
7. reinstall in same order you took things apart.

All work is done from below the car. First time it will take some more time to do it but now that I've done it I think a swap can be done in approx 1 hour.

The workshop manual says you need to remove the radiator and drain fluids but there is loads of space without doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ok here's an update. I couldn't belive it was so little info in the system on the charging so I went looking some more in INPA. If you look at the attachment here you see that all the info I wanted is right there.. I would have love to see this on the old generator but it's to late :( Short version is to start INPA and go into the MS_S65 ecu on measurement block. Hope this can help someone one day :)
 

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