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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Board,
Dropping in to say hello! I’m a speed/car guy who has ventured into the dark zone! Or emotional/financial black hole....

I’ve loved these cars since I took my boss‘ 06 for the weekend in 2011. I’ve been eyeing the market over the past 5 yrs and finally made my move!

Here she is!
933806


933805

75,230, 2 owner car, $89,000 Sticker Drove it back 200miles without a hiccup!

Has had most recent work in the last 5yr and 5k miles.
-Corsa axle back exh
-plugs/coil packs
-SACHS clutch and flywheel with front seal and rear main seal
-rebuilt and powder coated calipers (Red was not my first choice) with new pads and braided lines
-new OE battery and cabin/engine filters
-BBS CH-R staggered staggered wheels and Vredestein tires
-front leveling springs

I ordered all my rod bearing stuff to ensure I don’t “hurt myself”! Going with ACL STD on rod side and .001 on cap side. My understanding is this is the setup used to achieve .025 clearances like the BE Clevite bearing. I’ll measure while installing to be sure. I’ve used ACL on all my built engines without issue. At $300 for both sets, it was a no brainer for me.

ARP rod bolts, oil pan gasket and hardware along with the VANOS line and seals round out the plan.

Before I even made it home, I sent Ryan at RMS Fab payment for Jet Hot Silver coated V-Band headers. May as well do these while the subframe is out.

Drove and bought the car in LI, NY Wednesday. Drove to NY then NJ to pickup parts Saturday.

The issues it had were....
-thigh support button missing on P/S. $30
eBay fix.
-replaced rear door shade pulls for dog chewing(free)
-gear broken on D/S thigh support. $12 Amazon part.
-adaptive headlight fault(bought 2 used modules Saturday for $80)Do they require programming?
933807

933808


LASTLY.... my favorite thing about the original M5 I fell in love with besides the muffler delete was the ALCANTARA🥰 Unfortunately, I was sad to see my car did not have it!

Part of Saturday’s mission was picking up this set... $350 thanks to MPARTSWW
933809
933810


933811


Got a lot done in 5 days. Tackle the headlight modules and ALCANTARA kit tmrw🤘
 

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Hello Board,
Dropping in to say hello! I’m a speed/car guy who has ventured into the dark zone! Or emotional/financial black hole....

I’ve loved these cars since I took my boss‘ 06 for the weekend in 2011. I’ve been eyeing the market over the past 5 yrs and finally made my move!

Here she is!
View attachment 933806

View attachment 933805
75,230, 2 owner car, $89,000 Sticker Drove it back 200miles without a hiccup!

Has had most recent work in the last 5yr and 5k miles.
-Corsa axle back exh
-plugs/coil packs
-SACHS clutch and flywheel with front seal and rear main seal
-rebuilt and powder coated calipers (Red was not my first choice) with new pads and braided lines
-new OE battery and cabin/engine filters
-BBS CH-R staggered staggered wheels and Vredestein tires
-front leveling springs

I ordered all my rod bearing stuff to ensure I don’t “hurt myself”! Going with ACL STD on rod side and .001 on cap side. My understanding is this is the setup used to achieve .025 clearances like the BE Clevite bearing. I’ll measure while installing to be sure. I’ve used ACL on all my built engines without issue. At $300 for both sets, it was a no brainer for me.

ARP rod bolts, oil pan gasket and hardware along with the VANOS line and seals round out the plan.

Before I even made it home, I sent Ryan at RMS Fab payment for Jet Hot Silver coated V-Band headers. May as well do these while the subframe is out.

Drove and bought the car in LI, NY Wednesday. Drove to NY then NJ to pickup parts Saturday.

The issues it had were....
-thigh support button missing on P/S. $30
eBay fix.
-replaced rear door shade pulls for dog chewing(free)
-gear broken on D/S thigh support. $12 Amazon part.
-adaptive headlight fault(bought 2 used modules Saturday for $80)Do they require programming?
View attachment 933807

View attachment 933808

LASTLY.... my favorite thing about the original M5 I fell in love with besides the muffler delete was the ALCANTARA Unfortunately, I was sad to see my car did not have it!

Part of Saturday’s mission was picking up this set... $350 thanks to MPARTSWW
View attachment 933809 View attachment 933810

View attachment 933811

Got a lot done in 5 days. Tackle the headlight modules and ALCANTARA kit tmrw
Congratulations on your m5 and great work

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

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Nice wheels.. What brakes do you have? I can't really tell..
 

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Hello Board,
Dropping in to say hello! I’m a speed/car guy who has ventured into the dark zone! Or emotional/financial black hole....

I’ve loved these cars since I took my boss‘ 06 for the weekend in 2011. I’ve been eyeing the market over the past 5 yrs and finally made my move!

Here she is!
View attachment 933806

View attachment 933805
75,230, 2 owner car, $89,000 Sticker Drove it back 200miles without a hiccup!

Has had most recent work in the last 5yr and 5k miles.
-Corsa axle back exh
-plugs/coil packs
-SACHS clutch and flywheel with front seal and rear main seal
-rebuilt and powder coated calipers (Red was not my first choice) with new pads and braided lines
-new OE battery and cabin/engine filters
-BBS CH-R staggered staggered wheels and Vredestein tires
-front leveling springs

I ordered all my rod bearing stuff to ensure I don’t “hurt myself”! Going with ACL STD on rod side and .001 on cap side. My understanding is this is the setup used to achieve .025 clearances like the BE Clevite bearing. I’ll measure while installing to be sure. I’ve used ACL on all my built engines without issue. At $300 for both sets, it was a no brainer for me.

ARP rod bolts, oil pan gasket and hardware along with the VANOS line and seals round out the plan.

Before I even made it home, I sent Ryan at RMS Fab payment for Jet Hot Silver coated V-Band headers. May as well do these while the subframe is out.

Drove and bought the car in LI, NY Wednesday. Drove to NY then NJ to pickup parts Saturday.

The issues it had were....
-thigh support button missing on P/S. $30
eBay fix.
-replaced rear door shade pulls for dog chewing(free)
-gear broken on D/S thigh support. $12 Amazon part.
-adaptive headlight fault(bought 2 used modules Saturday for $80)Do they require programming?
View attachment 933807

View attachment 933808

LASTLY.... my favorite thing about the original M5 I fell in love with besides the muffler delete was the ALCANTARA🥰 Unfortunately, I was sad to see my car did not have it!

Part of Saturday’s mission was picking up this set... $350 thanks to MPARTSWW
View attachment 933809 View attachment 933810

View attachment 933811

Got a lot done in 5 days. Tackle the headlight modules and ALCANTARA kit tmrw🤘
Nice wheels.. What brakes do you have? I can't really tell..
 

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That’s the only means I know.... 😬
Plastigauge is just a rough indicator of clearance. Nothing wrong with it but I wouldn't say it counts as 'measuring' clearance. Been discussed before, here's one of those threads:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Don’t want to step on anyone’s toes but that’s all internet BS! You can’t measure any other way during assembly! In the creation of a mass produced part, sure there is a better way of measuring for that purpose. Just because the patient doesn’t know how to read his X-ray, doesn’t mean x-rays are pointless...

sorry
 

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@Ston2009
I've pulled the headliner from one of my cars. It is a bit of a bear to get the new IN without damaging it. In the factory the headliner is installed prior to either the windshield or backglass. I assume you are not going to remove either to remove and install the HL. You can get it in through the rear door opening, but it may very helpful to remove one of the front seats to give you more of an angle. This will make more sense once you start the job. Let us know your thoughts.

Regarding the rod bearings and plastigauge, it can help provide a sanity check but don't fret too much. I installed my ACL bearings last week and am in process of doing the VANOS line now. I'm in NJ and don't have any heat in the garage, so I do everything in steps. It seems your car has also live in the NE for a bit so you may have a challenge with removing the pulley off the water pump flange. The one I am doing is a 2008 and original pump. You may need to rent a pulley remover tool to get it off.

Another suggestion that I'll make since you will have everything else apart with the easiest possible access. No one else has seemed to mention it, but since you also have a rust belt car. Replace the alternator. or at a minimum remove the alternator and replace the voltage regulator. You have the subframe out, and the alternator belt is also off. It's 2 bolts and a pry bar to get the old alternator out. You will need the pry bar to get it off the block. I needed it on the 2 that I did. It takes 20 minutes extra. Your alternator will likely have a good amount of oxidation from all the salt spray. Valeo makes the original mfg for BMW. You can get new or rebuilt ones, either is better than the original one that is 13 years old, the voltage regulators are known failure points (the alternator generally is otherwise still good, but how does anyone know how much life is on the brushes ). $300 Max. Just do it.

There is no programming required on the headlight module if you had active headlamps originally. I think that is a standard M5 option.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you much for the insight!

I’m lucky that this car lived in Louisiana until 2015 and was pampered the 4yrs/5k miles up here.
 

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I posted a picture on the daily picture thread of 2 of my alternators. The one that was better looking (you decide yourself) spent the first 8 years in Tennessee. I don't have records on either but can see that on the carfax. New regulator is only like $40-$50. You can do research on this, but I guess when the regulators go bad the voltage output can get up to 17v. That could damage many modules, but there is no conclusive proof. I do know that on one of my other project M5 (2008) that actually has some records and spent all it's time in the south. The alternator was replaced under warranty (along with 3 batteries). I've replaced 3 failed modules so far due to various codes. My EDC module still has an internal fault code and seems to be bad also, but this is just an annoyance and I've not bothered to swap that out yet. My the satellite radio module (IBOC) also has an internal fault code and dealer write up that it is defective. The records also show DVD module and one other module that I can't recall at the moment. Maybe that car was (is) a lemon, but operating in over voltage conditions likely had some negative impact. That is why I said consider doing something with your alternator since your car is apart as preventative maintenance, the only hard part is finding the prybar (that took me 30 mins :rolleyes:)

Actually if your car is an 06 which is pre LCI, you can install LCI headlights (08-10) but there may be some programming or coding changes required. I don't know. I think there is info in this forum on that, others can chime in as well since I generally only have LCI cars.
 

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Plastigauge is just a rough indicator of clearance. Nothing wrong with it but I wouldn't say it counts as 'measuring' clearance. Been discussed before, here's one of those threads:
You can use plastiguage. You must use your old bolts to clamp with for the measuring purpose.
If you are within the specs then you are good. If you are on the edge of the spec using plastiguage - then you can consider other methods.
Calm down flacoramos :)
 

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I have been terrorizing RI with my M5 since 2012, perhaps we can meet sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Finished up the headliner today. Only thing left is the sunroof shade which hasn’t arrived yet. DEFINITELY one of my favorite features of the car!!!
933897

933898
 

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Nice how long did it take and did you have to remove one of the seats or did you just fully recline one? I had removed my seats anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
About an hour and a half. Had a helper. Ended up reclining then moving seat upright and all the way forward. Did some cleaning as well during that time.
 
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