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Ouch! So sorry to see this. :(
 

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rockd, when was the last time you had the hood opened? I'm wondering if there was heavy oil buildup in certain places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
rockd, when was the last time you had the hood opened? I'm wondering if there was heavy oil buildup in certain places.
I open the hood often... always checking the oil level, etc. I'm very mechanically capable, but I just couldn't foresee this coming.
 

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I open the hood often... always checking the oil level, etc. I'm very mechanically capable, but I just couldn't foresee this coming.
Oh I'm not trying to place blame. Just wondering if I should pay attention to any problematic leak areas.
 

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rockd:

OMG, I am so sorry to see this. You were so excited about this car less than a month ago too. Such a rare failure on these things in the grand scheme of things. My deepest condolences to you and I will see who I can find that may be interested in picking up the car or parts asap.
 

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Seems like it spit the rod through the block,you can see clearly the bottom of the piston with piston pin and the remains of the con rod attached...


I have always only seen the rods destroy the block on the bottom side(when a rod bearing went),never top..

Only explanation is the piston getting stuck....

Would also explain the suddenly high amount of oil it burned....
think about the force invloved to push that rod up through the valley of the engine... insane.
it had at least 40hp worth of force! ;)
 

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Very useful post...:rolleyes:
You'd be surprised. Obviously, Not a great thing to do to a E39 M5, but a friend of mine blew a hole in the block of his beater F150. He didn't have enough money to do a proper fix, and it was just a beater, so he replaced the internal part that broke with a junkyard piece, and threw some JB Weld on to cover the hole (about the same size), and had zero issues. 100k miles later, still no problems. Again - not recommended, it's a huge backwater ******* fix, but hell, if it's fubar and you're gunna have to replace the block anyway and you have the time........
 

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Absolutely brutal. I feel your pain. Good luck with whatever way you proceed.
 

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I am amazed that an Internal Combustion Engine works at all. When you think about the force it takes to turn your engine over by hand one full turn; imagine how much energy and force your engine is using just to idle at 600RPMs. Imagine how fast all of the components in your engine are moving when you cruise along at 70MPH, and they all manage to stay together moving that fast. Imagine your transmission! Imagine how fast the internal parts in a Formula 1 V8 are moving at 18,000RPMs, and then think about how hard they use the engine and it stays together for more than 10 seconds!

You should be thanking God everyday that your engine, transmission, and rear-end do not explode into countless pieces when you get on the highway. When you think about an engine's complexities, much less an S62, you realize just how fragile your motor is and that it has the potential to break at any second. A snap ring could work loose while you crank it. A fingertip sized bearing could break loose sending a piston flying out the side of your car.

What really gets me is that a cylinder can slide up and down an airtight chamber a million times in a day, and not even slightly attempt to carve it's # into the wall of the block.
 

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Ouch

Really sorry to see that :(
I remember when my first car (older mazda my dad had got me) had unexpected catastrophic engine failure... it was quite saddening.

Good luck on whichever route you go onto now with the car.
 

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Imagine how fast the internal parts in a Formula 1 V8 are moving at 18,000RPMs, and then think about how hard they use the engine and it stays together for more than 10 seconds!
There is an article in this months F1 Racing magazine about the Toyota V8 F1 engine, a few factoids :

At 18,000 rpm the pistons move up and down the bore in 0.003 seconds at a peak speed of 40 metres/sec.

Peak G force on a piston is 8,600G which is 0-60mph in 0.0005 seconds.

The piston experiences a force of about 6 tonnes.

The valves weigh 50g but experience 10,000G and thus have an apparent weight of 500Kg.
 

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This post has reminded me that I might want to get a spare engine now while they are still available if I plan to drive my M5 for another decade. Anyone know what the BMW part number is for a long block assembly and the price?

Steve
00 M5
84 911
64 Corvette Coupe
10 S1000RR
 

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This post has reminded me that I might want to get a spare engine now while they are still available if I plan to drive my M5 for another decade. Anyone know what the BMW part number is for a long block assembly and the price?
11001407803 -- MSRP is $23,095.90, Tischer BMW's price is 18,476.72. You'll have to pay a $2000 core charge also. Probably makes more sense to just buy a low mileage 2003 M5, maintain it as a premier garage queen and then switch over to it when your current car eventually dies. Of course if you do this, you'll probably see 250k miles, like Tranck, on your current car, and it won't die.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
What really gets me is that a cylinder can slide up and down an airtight chamber a million times in a day, and not even slightly attempt to carve it's # into the wall of the block.
Ok, that made me laugh a little :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
My dad did some investigation last night, and he guesses that the snap ring inside the wrist pin broke. He says that the marks on the inside of the block (see following photos) could only have been made by the wrist pin, which is a higher grade metal than the piston. Any thoughts?

Some photos of the pieces broken off the block:





 

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rockd, This is really not good news. Sorry to hear about your problem. Usually you would expect this to happen to a car that has been flogged and abused, but not something that was reasonably cared for.

I can't help you with the S52, but if you need help with your Xbox, let me know!! Far easier to fix the Xbox than the M5.

You may want to get with the folks in this thread to see if they are interested in buying your car to make another conversion?

Seems they went this route due to engine costs anyway??

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...168649-cross-breed-2jz-m5-video-pictures.html

I know there was a fully rebuild short block, no heads, on one of the forums (maybe here) in the past few months for around $11,500??

Otherwise look around for a wrecked unit, I know unfortunately there have been a number of totaled Beasts showing up in the forums due to many reasons lately.

Good luck what ever you decide and if someone ever tears into the block, give us and update on what may have been the cause.
 
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