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Good report. If you have clutch chatter, can raising the idle speed help like it seems to do for the UUC variant?
As to camber, if you can dial in a little more front, OK, but I would take some OUT of the rears. It will allow the back to rotate a little easier and therefore not work the fronts as much. 42 psi hot in the front is very good IMHO.
Regards,
Jery
 

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EdP said:
I'm having a track inspection done next week, and while I'm there I'll ask my guy to look at the Dinan plates and springs and see what he thinks is possible. Threads here have suggested that - 1.5 is close to max given the limited amount of space in the towers with OEM springs. On the other hand, the vast majority of Stage 3s were done by dealers, and they may not have been inclined to deviate from the -1.5 number spec'd by Dinan. My front tire wear looks pretty even, so I'm thinking that adding a little more negative camber, if possible, still would be fine on the street.
Ed
I think I have 1.5 neg on my fronts. It was done by my independent alignment shop. I have about .75 when the camber plates were not installed correctly. I believe 1.5 is the spec, but I assume it could vary by a .1 or so on any given car. Castor is 6.0. From memory, rears are -2.2, don't remember toe numbers.
The specs I have are:
Front : Camber -1.5 +/- .5 degrees
Castor 6.0 +/- .5 degrees
Total Toe .20 +/- .08 degrees

Rear: Camber -2.5 +/- .5 degrees
Total Toe .50 +/- .15 degrees
Masurements should be done with full tank of fuel and no weight inside the vehicle.
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Jerry
 

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Redshift said:
I find it strange that Dinan specs -2.2 for rear. Even under very severe track use, -1.8 in the rear works absolutely perfectly for me. Tire wear could not be more perfect in the rear. The front should be higher than -2.0 IMO, for track use. Mine is at -2.2 and it could really use another half degree or more for the track. I keep it at -2.2 for the street and it wears just fine.
Looking at my notes. IIRC I got these from Lscman who was kind enough to supply the info. I just printed them off the board (might be here if you do a search). I did not reconfirm with the Dinan website, but I don't think the info is posted there.
If different settings work well for you and your driving style, that is what I would go with as a fine tuning mechanism.
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Jerry
 

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MIB said:
Hey Jerry,

Thats interesting. Who told you it should be done with a FULL tank and no occupants?

When you corner balance the suspension (Coilovers) the driver sits in to take his weight into concideration for balance.

Also as you rarely have a Full tank, its only ever full at the start, why would you go on FULL?

Half a tank seems more reasonable, as You'l sometimes have a bit more and sometimes have a bit less?

Just seems interesting they said to you FULL.

Does anyone know why? Are they setting up for Maximum weight? But then you would think that should include a driver.

cherrsagai
Mark
I thought the same thing, but my notes (see preceding post) say "full tank" and "no one in the car". I would have thought half tank and weight to simulate the driver, since this is closer to what you would have at the track. Maybe a call to Mountainview is in order! :cheers:
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Jerry
 

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MIB said:
So check this out for a proceedure.

If all of this is correct, and I don't know either way, but this is what would be requiried.

1. You run the tank down to Half.

2. Install your Coilovers.

3. Sit in drivers seat while they corner balance the car.

4. Fill up with Fuel

5. Get out of the car whilst they Do an alignment.

hiha Does that about cover it? :1:
No, you have to read the fine print :haha2: . The setup is for Dinan Stage 3 suspension ONLY. So if you run the tank to halfway, and install coilovers, specs will not (necessarily) work for you!!! :wroom:
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Jerry
 

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EdP said:
I think Jerry is reading the same Dinan spec sheet as me, which says exactly that. I've also wondered why it's different. I also think the clutch is getting a decent workout at the track, especially if you have DSC off and are hammering the gas at each apex.
Ed
I think DSC will get you in trouble at the track. Just when you want to add power to head for the apex or power out of a turn ( or to catch the TTO) or othrwise steer with the throttle, the DSC cuts the power off because it tries to prevent the back end from moving. This is exactly what you want to do in a controlled manner on the track. You may not spin, but you will be very slow.
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Jerry
 

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MIB said:
hiha I have another word I would like to tell the DSC to do also. Funny, it starts with the same letter as Fun Off. :1:
:D :D :D
Regards,
Jerry
 

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EdP said:
Still trying to figure out why so many read DSC "on" when I said "off." but thanks for stating the obvious ouich
Sorry Ed, in context it sounded like the button was off, which is default mode leaving traction control on. You are correct, you said "DSC off" which means traction control nanny off! :flag:
Regards,
Jerry
 
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