[Garfunkgrin]

It looks like it, but just to confirm it’s oe fitment and uses the same bracket?

 

[AbdulM]

It looks like it, but just to confirm it’s oe fitment and uses the same bracket?

Yup, OE fitment and it uses the same bracket.

 

[Kurty]

$500 MRSP? Good luck.

Design is nice, can we replace the filter with on the shelf filter or do we have to order thru you guys? Also is there vent hole on the cap ?

 

[AbdulM]

$500 MRSP? Good luck.

Design is nice, can we replace the filter with on the shelf filter or do we have to order thru you guys? Also is there vent hole on the cap ?

My friend, the price is $299.00. Where did you get $500.00 from? Yes, if we ever have to order less than 300 sets at a time, the MSRP will be $449.00. But hopefully, that will never be the case, Everyone on this forum knows that I always sell products for the absolute lowest price possible. Otherwise, I don't carry them.

Yes, the cap is designed with a vent hole. It's the dual chamber design of the reservoir that allows the fluid not be turbulent. The only way the fluid can assess the secondary chamber is through a .3125" hole. this allows the fluid to remain calm where the vented cap is, allowing it not to wick into the vent itself. So you will never see any fluid outside the vent hole no matter how hard you drive the car.

Yes, it is an off-the-shelf filter. Waylon kept this in mind when designing it so it's affordable and accessible for anyone at any time. He spent hours on end just so that he can accomplish this.

 

[Greg T]

I think most people overfill the reservoir. Mine leaked like crazy during my first track event 8 years ago. I corrected it during that weekend and I've tracked it at least yearly without a seap.

 

[flacoramos]

I think most people overfill the reservoir. Mine leaked like crazy during my first track event 8 years ago. I corrected it during that weekend and I've tracked it at least yearly without a seap.

Exactly! The dipstick has two marks but the manual does not specify what's what (min/max cold? or hot? or max cold and max hot?). Pretty sure I opened a thread about it long ago and no one knew. So filling to the top mark when cold is a bad idea. I just let mine settle itself (by puking its guts out at the track) and haven't bugged me since.

 

[Fiftytwoeighty]

I just let mine settle itself (by puking its guts out at the track) and haven't bugged me since.

Equilibrium!

Nonetheless, the billet aluminum looks sweet!

 

[SeattleAggie]

@B767capt has or had something similar that I believe is no longer available so this looks like a cool alternative to the standard plastic stock part!

 

[eurospec4life]

Sweet! Thanks Abdul. Placing a preorder now.

 

[platii]

@flacoramos, since no one answered your concern:

1. Thoroughly clean fluid reservoir and its immediate surroundings
2. Check and correct fill level
   Note: The fill level can come to rest above the ”MAX” mark when the engine is at normal operating temperature. This is dictated by the design in that the marking on the dipstick is referred to a fluid temperature of 20 °C. With the engine at normal operating temperature (approx. 50-60 °C fluid temperature) adjust a fill height 10 mm above the ”MAX” mark. Do not under any circumstances draw off the fluid to the ”MAX” mark when the engine is at normal operating temperature.
3. Start engine.
4. Turn steering wheel left and right twice in each case up to full lock; if necessary, top up hydraulic fluid (e.g. if hydraulic system is completely drained)
5. Move steering wheel to straight-ahead position and turn off engine
6. Check and correct fill level with engine stopped
7. Check hydraulic system for leaks

 

[dbenkert]

I just let mine settle itself (by puking its guts out at the track) and haven't bugged me since.

And that’s the engineering brilliance! Self adjusting reservoirs with automated bleed-off functionality. God I love zero hassle maintenance.

 

[flacoramos]

@flacoramos, since no one answered your concern:

1. Thoroughly clean fluid reservoir and its immediate surroundings
2. Check and correct fill level
   Note: The fill level can come to rest above the ”MAX” mark when the engine is at normal operating temperature. This is dictated by the design in that the marking on the dipstick is referred to a fluid temperature of 20 °C. With the engine at normal operating temperature (approx. 50-60 °C fluid temperature) adjust a fill height 10 mm above the ”MAX” mark. Do not under any circumstances draw off the fluid to the ”MAX” mark when the engine is at normal operating temperature.
3. Start engine.
4. Turn steering wheel left and right twice in each case up to full lock; if necessary, top up hydraulic fluid (e.g. if hydraulic system is completely drained)
5. Move steering wheel to straight-ahead position and turn off engine
6. Check and correct fill level with engine stopped
7. Check hydraulic system for leaks

Thanks. The issue is not how to add fluid. The issue is the dipstick has two marks with no explanation to what's what. Filling to the top mark when cold results in fluid gushing out at the track. From memory once equilibrium is reached the fluid barely touches the dipstick when cold.

 

[kolosy]

Thanks. The issue is not how to add fluid. The issue is the dipstick has two marks with no explanation to what's what. Filling to the top mark when cold results in fluid gushing out at the track. From memory once equilibrium is reached the fluid barely touches the dipstick when cold.

annoying -- i had a leaking cap seal, replaced it and assumed the fluid being at the level you describe meant that a bunch of it spilled out. naturally i topped up cold to the top line. sigh.

 

[platii]

dipstick has two marks with no explanation to what's what

That question looks so easy to the point would make the whole thing more complicated, any how the top mark is MAX and the bottom is MIN.
Understanding the check/fill fluid level is part of the answer of your concern, I would assume.
At 20°C fluid temperature you add fluid to the MAX line with engine stopped.
After engine reach operating temperature fluid temp at 50-60°C fluid level should rise to 10mm above the MAX level (engine stopped). This mean the fluid level shouldn't rise more than that unless there is air in the system or the reservoir lid seal is worn.

The reservoir lid seal prone to fail, may be it is your issue if the fluid level is adjusted properly.

 

[flacoramos]

We're going in circles here so won't argue anymore, but no my reservoir is new.

 

[pmalik]

Ooooh any pics of the silver one?

 

[dbenkert]

In light of all conversation and the product at hand I've started seeing these "better mousetrap" power steering reservoirs (turner offers a "triple baffled" unit as well). I suppose my question was if the proper destructive engineering was done to examine the issue, rather than jumping in at the hypothesis that it just needs a solid aluminum bomb-proof reservoir. I would think if under normal condition (no cracks or failures of the designed unit) it allows fluid to escape that could be a designed sacrificial point in the assembly.

Would eliminating the sacrificial point under the right conditions lead to a failure of the next weakest point? My reasoning would be this being radial seals in the steering rack itself...

 

[B767capt]

@B767capt has or had something similar that I believe is no longer available so this looks like a cool alternative to the standard plastic stock part!

Good memory as I've has this reservoir on for quite sometime now and has been flawless. I even added a motorcycle brake reservoir to collect any over flow out of the vent but that's never happened. There is more head space in this one over the OEM which allows for the heat expansion. I got it from AGA Tools with extra filters.

 

[Lennon31987]

TY. ordered.