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Discussion Starter #461
Lord. NOW it has decided to light up the disco via the DSC pump. 😐😐 Googling the DSC pump rebuild now...any help/advice would be awesome.
 

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Yes read the codes first.
There are many sensors and valves might need re calibration.
Remember you have just played with the wheels and tires.
you always have a chance to use the fault codes in the test plan to help you diagnose the issue with ISTA.
Try not to underestimate the intelligence of this M car, it has many variables implemented into it's ECU's , it could be as odd as a windshield wiper triggered the disco gathering of the DSC, don't ask me how or why, ask J and H. (Engineers with Aliens mentality).
 

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Discussion Starter #464
Flac I hear u on module masters, will call them tomorrow.

Drove the car a bit as it is, I generally drive in manual mode all the time. Man does it shift nice...to the extent that nothing to complain about. Has Redline MTL in it. I'll try Redline D4 ATF in the other car per your recommendation to see if it improves that car's shifting.
 

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You can do the DSC motor yourself. sticky brushes or corroded motor, if that’s what the code is. Not very hard, but scary for many folks. Motor is only needed to modulate the brakes anyhow. It’s a PITA to remove all the lines and disconnect, but I did mine in place without removing any of the lines and then un-staking the tabs that hold the motor to the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #466
I had trouble finding motor repair parts/motor. Code is 5DF0 (motor). Do u have a link for motor or parts??
 

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The easiest thing to try is to whack it with a hammer. It being the black cylinder which is the motor, ideally when the motor is commanded on manually in either if the tools. If it is stuck or seized, it won’t make noise because it won’t spin, which is why you need to turn it on first then whack it. Try that first.

These motor housings are poorly sealed for water and salt ingress, with it located where it is, that’s asking for trouble, but I think Jürgen had to put it there for the M5 since Hans had to make room for the V10 and dual intake sillyness. Anyways some of these housings get excessive corroded, so just doing brushes is potentially not the solve, but you won’t know until you take it apart and you may be hosed. With replacement motors, I understand there are different sizes and mounting schemes so they are not all the same.
 

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desmo1
Can you do me a favor, could you upload a picture from behind the coolant reservoir, as I found a tube that comes from the brake booster pump disconnected but I think I know where it goes, but there is another tube between that tube and the coolant reservoir not hooked to anything, so I don't know if there is a tee in there or where that tube which is behind the coolant reservoir connect to? Thank You.
Another for the for the wiper washer tube from in front of the positive pole to the where it connects at the hood, I have that missing too.
 

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desmo1
Can you do me a favor, could you upload a picture from behind the coolant reservoir, as I found a tube that comes from the brake booster pump disconnected but I think I know where it goes, but there is another tube between that tube and the coolant reservoir not hooked to anything, so I don't know if there is a tee in there or where that tube which is behind the coolant reservoir connect to? Thank You.
Another for the for the wiper washer tube from in front of the positive pole to the where it connects at the hood, I have that missing too.
Don't know if my RHD can help, sorry for jumping in your post,
945784
945785
 

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Discussion Starter #474
I had buttoned up the booster area already, sorry
945788


Took it out for an Italian tune up on some twistys in western NC.
Someday I'll get a license plate frame that says:
"My other car is a porkypine"
945789
 

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Don't know if my RHD can help, sorry for jumping in your post,
Thank You Trinity and, desmo1 yeah it helped, I am missing the rest of the tube, I think that the fuel vent tubing at no. (1). At number 2 I am missing the tubing from the area of the (+)pole all the way till the hood, I think part of tubing is buried inside the wire bundle, that my guess.
 

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Any chance it needs to be bled properly? I know there is a sequence with the aircon all the way hot and headlights on etc. Thinking you may have already done that though. Sometimes it may have an airlock that stops the thermo from opening creating a heat pocket, just a thought.
 

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I had buttoned up the booster area already, sorry View attachment 945788

Took it out for an Italian tune up on some twistys in western NC.
Someday I'll get a license plate frame that says:
"My other car is a porkypine" View attachment 945789
Lol you mean where the pricks are on the outside?

When I was a kid a friends dad had a cool Porsche 911. I was about 12 at the time and not a Porsche expert so I’m not sure exactly what it was, but it was a mid 90s 911, turbo, and special in some way.

He loved the joke:

Q: ‘what’s the difference between a Porsche and an echidna?
A: With an echidna the pricks are on the outside’.

So he ordered a custom number plate which read EKIDNA (only 6 characters allowed). Sadly his 911, reportedly 1 of only 2 in the country, whatever it was, was stolen and never recovered.
 

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Any chance it needs to be bled properly? I know there is a sequence with the aircon all the way hot and headlights on etc. Thinking you may have already done that though. Sometimes it may have an airlock that stops the thermo from opening creating a heat pocket, just a thought.
our cooling systems are self bleeding, so it's not an issue compared to most other cars.
 
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