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Discussion Starter #301
Interesting, then why upgrade both pumps then for high hp or ethanol? I would think that the much much lower delivery pressure of a transfer pump would give all kinds of flow (I am assuming that both pumps in the right tank are the same spec). Would this not just suggest only upgrading the supply pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #303
Guys, anyone know what the part number is for the flap of sound deadening that goes between the lower portion of the rear seat and the unibody on top of the fuel tank? I have been looking for this and losing my mind finding it in realoem/BMW parts diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter #304
Well now it's being bitchy about starting again, need to check plugs. Also quite a clatter from left bank..think exhaust cam VANOS. Right bank is fine noise wise. Perhaps a sticky solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #305
VANOS solenoids are...suboptimal...

So out they'll come for cleaning and re-oring. Any advice on this?
940949
 

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I would do the removal only while doing the rod bearing and internal HP vanos line job. The reason is that you have to remove the fan and radiator to access the vanos solenoids. It is next to impossible to access the screws to remove the pass side solenoids with the radiator in place.

To replace the HP vanos line and properly retorque it, it is best to remover one of the coolant hoses (but radiator could be left in).

you also will need to bleed the vanos circuit In either situation so best to do it at the same time. The vanos line and acutaors add quite a bit of time to the rod bearing job, but I do it all at the same time now. I also do the water pump, idler pulleys, and alternator or voltage regulator at the same time FWIW but I know not everyone thinks all these need to be done. In my case for my cars it was the right time.
 

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Discussion Starter #307
HP external VANOS line is fine (at least not leaking). Fan shroud is just laid in there now, so that'll come right out. Rad doesn't look like it'd take much at all to remove.
 

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It’s the internal line that fails on earlier cars especially, that could be causing your vanos issues. No way to know unless you hook up a pressure gauge and that’s like $100.

the fan is a bit of a pain, the swivel clip on the passenger side is hard to get at. Some times it’s broken or missing, makes total sense. The radiator hoses come off easily but getting them back in FULLY seated can be tricky. The 2 little vent lines are clamped with oetiker clamps from the factory, if it’s been removed before they will likely have worm style clamps. You probably will also have a hell of a lot of dirt and debris trapped that is now accessible one you pull the radiator, your choice of you want to clean it up. I’ll make that call based on how dirty your car was in the first place. But yes the radiator is just sitting there fairly east to remove. There’s just a lot of other work that ends up adding a bunch of time. A flat rate Indy is not going to take the time to clean out the radiator and condenser garbage. Based on how long this has taken me, I would budget a solid day to do all of this, but I am very meticulous and this area tends to be very neglected based on what I see with the 4 cars I’ve had.
 

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Discussion Starter #309
Yeah, it's like these cars go out into the world and eat plankton for their lives before they got to us or something. My indy is as awesome as it gets and I'll do what needs to be done in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Ok, looked at SZL board for DSC error....no solder on connector pins??? Soldered all pins like this

Also cleaned out VANOS solenoids and re oringed, we'll see if it pans out.
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I did the same thing on mine and even changed two solenoids, it made no difference. The exhaust gears on the 06' has an update for the noise. I just keep driving mine and have had no running problems. I think the vanos test is like an oil sample looking for bad rod bearings, inconclusive. Put your time and money on a more guaranteed problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #313
No, I think this is something different, I can see the cam timing moving all over the place on the noisy cam in INPA. Also when you could hear the thing clicking at cranking it wouldn't want to start.

I did get a lot of crap out of one solenoid, they are all very free now and they do sound different as well when actuated. Like I say, we'll see soon. If this doesn't work I'll pop cam covers and check timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #314
Well, no joy on the SZL repair so I suppose I'll lube up for another $500 part. I did start the car and it still ticks like Captain Hook's crocodile, will try to do a bleed but not optimistic. What was the deal with the earlier cars having exhaust vanos gear problems or something? I am coming up short on google...
 

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Discussion Starter #316
No, I'm not into the bottom end (yet).
Oil filter and oil was clean if you're thinking rod bearings.
 

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The oil pickup takes unfiltered oil straight to Vanos pump.
On single drain plug oil pans over time debris collects in the undrained front sump till it gets to the level that it is ingested by pick up and straight to Vanos system , the killer of solenoids and perhaps Vanos actuators
 

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The oil pickup takes unfiltered oil straight to Vanos pump.
On single drain plug oil pans over time debris collects in the undrained front sump till it gets to the level that it is ingested by pick up and straight to Vanos system , the killer of solenoids and perhaps Vanos actuators
Well it is filtered abit. There is the little vanos filter (80 micron mesh screen) that you mentioned. BMW also says there is a 50 micron filter that seems to be in each vanos actuator unit after the check valve. I don't know that anyone has ever taken one of these apart and seen it. Blockages and air entrapment certainly can account for the noise that OP is describing. Personally I wouldn't get in to this until I had addressed the rod bearing issue and vanos line so know that there is no pressure leak from the hose and that the system is properly bled. That said, I have no clue how obnoxious the noise is and OP has another one of these cars too.

I've watched different videos over the years and have noticed that pre LCI cars generally have much more VANOS racket than what I have with my LCI cars. Sure some of these older cars on YT are in questionable condition, but a few seem to be well looked after. I actually thought about doing my own reference video recording with a very high quality audio recorder on a seperate audio track. If anyone has an acoustical chamber in their garage let me know.

The point is that I know too well that over time there are questions about "should the engine sound like this" or "I don't remember it sounding like this back then". These are notoriously hard issues to troubleshoot even on your own because it relies on one's own memory and trying to relay that to someone else is almost futile. At Ford we even had alot of intense arguments about how things should sound. It always begs the question, how do you create and engineering spec for how something should sound? What is the pass/fail criteria? how do you hold suppliers accountable for these "defects"?
 

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Typewriter tick in mustang gt, if have warranty just keep on driving.

Some Dealers do more harm than good addressing strange noise issues

Dealer most times just says injector noise.

plausible, my Tundra 5.7 had injector Tops enclosed in foam to reduce noise
 
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