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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Much alike to so many other threads I've seen, it appears that it's NOT abnormal for NEW owners to be experiencing issues with their new rides.

Just purchased a 2006 M5 with 90k. Did my due diligence, had dealer inspect the vehicle, went on extensive test drives, etc. Well, 5 hours after the vehicle was signed over to me, I am encountering the following:

- Transmission Malfunction
- ABS Control System

These 2 codes come and go, when the warning pops up, I notice what seems to be a split second shut down on all electrical components, idrive, A/C, etc.

I made sure to get a warranty, hope this will save me some $$$. I guess, looking at it in the brighter light, it's better that it's happening now, then later.....

Comments?
 

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Likely voltage regulator. Stick a multi meter probe in the cig lighter, or better, to a plug you can leave in there, and prop the meter up on the dash and watch DC voltage change, If it goes abouve about 14.7, the car will freak out. 60.00 DIY with a few wrist scratches or 600.00 alternator replacement....UNDER WARRANTY!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Let me add a couple of things.

When the notice pops up, there are not control messages that show up. I have not scanned the code, so not sure what may be stored on there. Now, during the dealer inspection, the only codes it registered were several low voltage codes. I would assume they'd try to sell me a battery or alternator, but that didn't happen. Let's hope it's something just as simple as that.
 

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The day after I picked my car up it freaked out! Dash looked like a Xmas tree.
I stuck a multimeter in the cigarette lighter and once I received a few errors I watched the voltage go from 10 -22v.

Voltage regulator.

I had my alternator replaced under warranty and haven't had so much as a washer fluid low warning since......
 

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Likely voltage regulator. Stick a multi meter probe in the cig lighter, or better, to a plug you can leave in there, and prop the meter up on the dash and watch DC voltage change, If it goes abouve about 14.7, the car will freak out. 60.00 DIY with a few wrist scratches or 600.00 alternator replacement....UNDER WARRANTY!

A minor point of clarification. Your car WILL be over 14.7 if it's replenishing the battery. It then drops back down into the 14's when it's time. For example I run in the 15's after starting up for a bit. I have a real time display on my car so I'm seeing this every day.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys for all the feedback. Been a loyal Japanese Import enthusiast for the past 15 years, 240sx in the late 90s to the early 2000, to 1300+ hp Supras, to GT-Rs, etc.

Now, I'm in love with my M.

So, from process of elimination, I'm swaying more towards a faulty battery. I'll start from there.

Thanks all!
 

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welcome. am a noob here too. The first day I bought my car home I left the lights on and drained the battery. The next day my brother hooked up a battery charger straight to the battery ( he was trying to be nice and do me a favor). My car went crazy I gat all sorts of errors and warnings it would not even let me start the car (I had a steering lock error) a few guys on the board advised me on what to do. Luckly I did not fry my IBS but trust me I know you pain. I have not had any other issues since knock on wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for the welcome. Spoke to the previous owner and found out that in the time he's owned the vehicle, he has not had the need to change the battery. It's been I believe 4 years and approximately 30k miles under his ownership. He did let me know that recently it did sit for 2 to 3 weeks without starting and when he tried, the battery was completely dead. Again, during the dealer inspection, the dealer did mention that the only codes were 'low voltage'. With what everyone's mentioned, I'm fairly certain that the issues maybe battery and or alternator related.

My wife took the car today and when she shut the car off, she failed to turn off all the electronics and also left her key in her purse inside the car. The car sat with music blaring and whatever else that was left on for about 20 minutes. We didn't have any issue this morning, but it was throwing warnings for quite a while after she left the car on (ignition off).

Now, I'm trying to decide if I should take the car to a dealer to replace the battery or not. Suggestion?


welcome. am a noob here too. The first day I bought my car home I left the lights on and drained the battery. The next day my brother hooked up a battery charger straight to the battery ( he was trying to be nice and do me a favor). My car went crazy I gat all sorts of errors and warnings it would not even let me start the car (I had a steering lock error) a few guys on the board advised me on what to do. Luckly I did not fry my IBS but trust me I know you pain. I have not had any other issues since knock on wood.
 

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Hi GrowingUp,

I'm also running a 2006 M5, with 101000 K's on the clock. A Japanese Import (NZ is Right hand drive).

Have just last week received a yellow-cog transmission error which cleared after approx. 5 seconds.

Needless to say the whiff of an SMG error gives me heart palpatations.

Taking it into the shop they couldn't replicate any of them, and suggested it could be a voltage issue - either an old battery or the alternator.

I have yet to see any additional issues, but it is remarkable that you have suffered the exact same issue with a similarly aged and driven vehicle.
 

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2 months after i got my car the same malfunction cog came on. It ended up being my battery and alternator. It's a bit of a headache but once u drive off you fall in love again. haha
 

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The error that comes up on the dash/idrive screen has a cog icon

 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
No red COG for me, knock on wood.

While driving yesterday, noticed that my comfort access stopped working and also my clock reset too. I've read that this is related to low voltage. Either way, hope it's just the battery and nothing else (alternator). I do have an extended warranty, and I did take my time reading the fine print. Now, before all you guys jump in and bash extended warranties, I did my research and purchased the warranty through my credit union. The warranty company does have the ability to cancel my warranty within 2 month of purchase for any reason. I'm kinda skeptical on filing a warranty claim only a few days after my vehicle purchase (if I had to). I'm afraid that they may cancel me!
 

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GrowingUp --

I have had this issue with the clock resetting/comfort access not working ever since I got my car over 2 years ago ('08 build). When the car detects a low voltage on the battery, it goes into "deep sleep" to make sure the battery has enough juice to start the car.

The cause of the "deep sleep" and the need to reset the clock is generally either (1) an old battery; or (2) that the car gets driven for short trips, which doesn't let the battery fully re-charge. I first replaced my battery, but still had the issue. Turns out that the issue is caused -- even if your battery is in great shape -- when you only drive the car for short distances. If you frequently go short distances, I suspect this is your problem. My other cars, which have a similar amount of short distance driving, never had this issue. Apparently, it's common on the E60 5-series, including the non-M models.

The solution: (1) Drive the car for longer distances (c. 10 miles w/o turning it off) at least once a week or (2) Get a trickle charger and top off the battery every so often. I try to do both. During the times when I drive my car more frequently, this issue does not show up.

As an FYI, if you replace your battery, you should take it to the dealer to get the IBS coded (Intelligent Battery System). Apparently, the car charges the battery at different rates depending upon how old it thinks the battery is. Unfortunately, this is not something you can code yourself. I know others have different feelings on the coding, but I think you should do it. My dealer charged $50 for the coding, after I replaced the battery myself.
 

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FYI, if you replace your battery, you should take it to the dealer to get the IBS coded (Intelligent Battery System). Apparently, the car charges the battery at different rates depending upon how old it thinks the battery is. Unfortunately, this is not something you can code yourself. I know others have different feelings on the coding, but I think you should do it. My dealer charged $50 for the coding, after I replaced the battery myself.

It's a 5 minute setting if you have the software and cable. If you're DIY inclined it is a worthwhile investment when owning a car that requires coding for various things.
 

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Conclusively- a conventional lead acid battery will be depleted of many characteristics if it every cycles. Cycling is any process by which the voltage goes from +/- to -/+. If you ever tried to start your car and the load from the starter motor goes through the solenoid and hits the battery, but the starter needs more power than the battery has, and the + sees negative ground reference....the battery, will never, every come back to 100% capacity again. PERIOD. Its why your cell phones use lithium ion or nickel metal hydride batteries. Conventional Lead acid batteries are absolutely prone to memory issues. There are 6- 2.25Volt cells in a car battery. Having one bad or the degradation is such that the cells cannot work efficiently, they will degrade. When you apply more than about 15% capacity to a battery, in other words, it sees prolonged periods of time where its getting about 15.5volts or higher, you will damage cells. This is why most voltage regulator failures eventually lead to battery failure. In the M cars, the battery did you a favor by channeling that excess voltage as a big capacitor, effectively keeping your cars components from seeing the full effects of the high voltage.

Check your voltage with the car running. If you replace your battery for 200.00 and still have a bad voltage regulator, you will just degrade your battery. If nothing else, its an excuse to buy a cheap 20.00 multi meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks everyone for all the replies.

Was at the dealer and was told that the alternator is over charging and that the battery is 'ok'. Well, they are trying to sell me an alternator and battery. I don't have an issue doing the repairs, but I have read about the voltage regulator going out? Assuming it's not a built in voltage regulator or is it? HELP please!
 

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The VR is user serviceable, unless you have a warranty, its a bolt on module on he back of the alternator, likely comes from Valeo and costs about 66.00. Search, we've all posted the part numbers in the DIY threads. Do it in an hour on the garage floor, or the dealer will replace the alternator because they don't fix things like that.

Just replace the battery. I promise
 
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