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Discussion Starter #1
I am new member with a new M5..Yet again another one of us!

The story about this car. Its a 80k mile 2000 jet black car with a build date of 05/2000, which should mean it has newer rings? The car was repoed in 2008. During that ownership and before that, it seems the car was neglected, but it survived. Car has not been wrecked. Paint is weak on flat surfaces and front bumper, but the sides are very straight.

The owner before me did his best bringing the car back. Compression and leak down tests showed the engine was in great shape! He had to replace a wheel, mass sensors, brakes. key, bushings, etc. He did everything he thought of but a clutch. There are still some issues with the car when I received, but the price was right and it is a solid car. Most cars I looked at had more expensive issues, but pretty paint. I don't care about pretty paint, nor original paint. I am going to track it, and paint it when I want to. I have a 30k mile e36 M3 that is perfect, which is a pretty car for nice days. My beautiful girlfriend can drive the beautiful M3, while my beast can be nasty.

Issues to be addressed before I put it on the road.
Clutch. I have ordered a new LUK clutch and flywheel from gripforce. They were cheap, both shipped under 800.00. What a deal! I also ordered new bolts etc from Pelican from the list I found on here. Yes I did search the forum for information. Odd for a new person to do that.

Gas smell. I also have a gas smell in the rear passenger side. I also have the fuel door open or open warning on. I have the rear passenger inner fender off, and all looks good there. I am going to check the vent hoses/gas lines next. From what I searched from the forum, the vent lines are probably the issues.

Brake line warning. From what I searched its probably the the brake sensors. Since I got the back rear wheel off, I looked at the sensor and it looks good. Not even close to contact to complete the circuit. The previous owner said he replaced it when the brakes were replaced, and from the looks of it, I believe him. Other ideas.

Power steering leaking. The line from the tank to the power steering cooler is leaking. Part ordered and will be replaced. Should I go ahead and order the other one and replace it?

Thanks,
Adam
 

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Welcome to the board.

Gas smell could be the tank cap seal. Pop the rear seat. There is a Fuel Pump video in the DIY Guidepost sticky that you should watch. Regardless, I wouldn't sleep on addressing this.

Just because brakes were replaced doesn't mean new sensors were used.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply

This board seems odd about sharing, about newbies, and I didn't get much response to this post, but I really found this odd so I am posting this.

The gas smell was actually the fuel ventilation hose from the plastic filler pipe to the gas tank was totally snapped. I found chestnuts and crud that got in there so I am hoping that caused it. I replaced that line and everything else seems to be in order. I would have have replaced the other gaskets as well, but knowing me, the next thing that would happen is the entire fuel system would be redone. Shipwrights disease would have set in(yes I have restored TR6's in the past).

The brakes all seem to check out. The sensors aren't touching the rotors, and look new(as per said by po). I even took them off and tried to reset the rom. The warning still popped up. Checked the fluid too. I ordered new sensors and even a new cap. I will flush the brake system and then go from there?? Will also clean the connections for the sensors and connect with dielectric grease. DSC modual is my last resort or pump. I am still researching and will probably post on the bimmer forums as they seem to have a lot of info on this.

Clutch parts are coming this week, and I am slowing taking parts off for the clutch.
Thanks,
Adam
 

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This board seems odd about sharing, about newbies, and I didn't get much response to this post, but I really found this odd so I am posting this.
First of all, welcome to the board.

Secondly, I apologize if you feel ignored. Since your first post was on April 1, we all figured that you were some kind of Nissan guy trolling for April Fool's, so we ignored you. :nono:

Ha! J/K. :S

Your first post really didn't have any questions. Lots of comments, statements, but other than one sentence that reads "other ideas" with no question mark, the only question was about the leaking power steering line. I'll go ahead and answer that for you.

Yes.

Kudos for finding (we hope) the source of your gas smell and thanks for posting the resolution. This board seems to be getting less and less tolerant of newbies who don't use the search function, but the more people that post their resolution to a problem, the more effective that search will be. Natch it would be even better if your thread title was more descriptive, but hey, that can't always be helped when you have multiple questions and issues.

As for the brakes, your first post says "Brake line warning". There is no such warning that I'm aware of. Did you mean to say "brake lining"? If so, then that's simply the wear indicator, and should have nothing to do with DSC, fluid levels, etc. There are two sensors, one for the front (LF, I think) one for the rear (RR, I think). Either or both could be causing the signal. I believe it takes a few cycles of restarting the car for the message to go away. I don't know - I always do the brakes before the warning comes up, so I've never had to replace a sensor or reset the warning. The sensor works by grounding against the rotor. If the wire is broken and grounding itself somewhere on the circuit, then that could explain why it won't go away. Or it could be a bad sensor. I wouldn't necessarily trust what the PO says at this point - he's got your money and just wants you to go away.

These are pretty strong cars, so other than the cosmetics (which you already said you don't care about) some TLC should brings yours back up to snuff. Enjoy it on the track, but start thinking now about some serious brake upgrades - most of your money is best spent on pads, not fancy rotors and cross-drilling. It's a big heavy car and it takes a lot to slow it down.

HTH,
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response.

I apologize if my response was harsh, and I am sitting in self pitty. Oh poor me..;) I understand my issues, and I will be better next time. Thank you for the response. This car did replace a s2000, but next to it was a e36 M3 with 26k on it! So I do have some good and bad taste.

I thoroughly search both this board and other boards for my answers before I post. I just posted here in case anybody wanted to follow my resurection of this car. I thought it might be interesting to see someone do it on a limited budget, but do it right. I know its going to cost me quite a big in parts.

I am not sure what to share or not. My resolution on the fuel system seemed new. Could be on here or not, but its and easy simple fix. Someone else could get it. Please advise on what to share or not?

I am getting the "check brake linings" error. I need to be symantically correct when I post an issue. You are correct. I have searched the boards, this is why I am replacing all the parts above. Both sensors look new, but I am replacing both anyways. Even replacing the cap to the fluid, as the brake fluid is full. I will even flush the brake system to make sure there isn't any air in the system causing the issue. All the brakes are good. I even checked the sensors with them off the brakes. I did these checks after my research. You can even wire the lines of the sensors together to check the system. FYI(did not do this). I did try to clear the eprom. I did look on here, didn't see many people go past this point. If you guys want the information on my resolution, I am willing to post.

Typically, I would never ask for help, and just hide out. So this is a new thing for me.

I really appreciate your response, and all the people who have posted all the information here. The clutch information on here is a wealth of knowledge. How did people work on their cars before the internet?


Your newbie troll, wearing his honda cap. Also, what stickers make the M5 faster? I hear the more the better. What fart pipes are the best?

VTEC all the way!

I am truly kidding...10 years ago I was always the odd ball with a restored tr6 at triumph shows, now I might be the odd ball here. Then again I am an odd ball. I will stick to car posting from now on!
Adam
 

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Welcome!

Lack of responses might have been due to lack of pictures :haha2:

We're whores for photos of M5's!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will whore it out. I need to find the camera and take some pictures of the dirty car on jack stands! I agree I will pass a thread due to lack of pictures.

Adam
 

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Congrats and welcome. That's an awesome combo -- E36 M3 and E39 M5. But I want both of mine to run good and look good.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Edgy,
You live close to me. My brother lives up in Arlington and I used to live up there as well. My e36 does look perfect, but its stock. The M5 will probably get a cosmetic overhaul someday, I probably won't be able to resist not making it perfect. Hopefully one day at least the M5 will be road ready. I am crossing my fingers. If I rush it, it will become a job, not a hobby.

I appreciate the warm welcoming.

Adam
 

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Did not realized you had issues. Titles can be misleading. Had the title been "New M5 with issues". I certainly would have read it. Away congrats on the ride. The brake linings warning is just the electric circuit nothing more. It does a couple of different things. Shorts to ground is one but the other is the resistance of the circuit. The wrong sensor can do it, dirty contact can do it. On my car the sensors were new and I had the same problem. For me a cleaning of the connectors di electric grease, seemed to do nothing, but I unplugged them one day and did a continuity test on one sensor plugged them back in and they worked. Don't know what happened. It is the check control module that is responcible for checking, so you may want to inspect the plug into it.

They are a bit temper-mental, but may be the wrong ones are installed, and your new ones may do the trick.

Thanks for the post on the vent hose I think that is new info.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sailor,
Thanks for the info. Thats why I ordered the new ones, just to make sure. At the price, its worth just replacing them and making sure I have the right ones. I have the battery disconnected due to the clutch change, so I won't be able to test until I get that finished.

I need to grab my camera battery from mothers house, so pictures will have to wait. We have the same camera, so I lent her mine due to an emergency low battery incident (aka trip to my nieces) house.

Update:
I am working on the clutch and got the exhaust off. Was kind of a pain due to weight and doing it myself. I am a small man, marathon runner, 5'8" 137 lbs, so moving it was an ordeal for me! Next is getting the transmission out, it can be done watching Tarabass's video. Seems like a multitude of Jacking techniques. I have two jacks and 6 jack stands, so we shall see!
 

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Hey do you have the link to that video? I will be doing my clutch soon to.. Just cant seem to locate that vid.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not off the top of my head. Youtube e39 M5 clutch replacement and you should be able to find it. If you can't I will find it for you. There are 3 clutch replacement threads on here that have a wealth of knowledge. If you can't find those, let me know.

Good Luck!
Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pictures of the M5

Sorry for the dirty garage, there is work being done in there! Both cars are dirty, the poor M3 is driven daily now and has lost its space in the garage! These pictures are done with my phone, hence the poor quality. Then again, everything is a mess at this point, so everything is of poor quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Repairs.
-First pictures is where the fuel vent line is broken, it was actually slowly worn away on the other end. I don't have a picture of this, its a shame.
-Second is the quick fix for this until I get the correct line made. I will do this, I don't like after market fix's for my car, but this *should work.\
-Third is where my brake sensor connects. Looks dirty, will clean this area when I get the new sensor.
-Fourth, just to pat my self on the back where I got my exhaust out.
 

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Nice garage! Gotta love an E36 M

Regarding the piston seal change or whatever - it affects cars both sides of when the "Change" was done. If you arent having heavy oil consumption already, then it isnt affecting your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think I am safe from that. I haven't had any oil consumption and the build date is 05/2000, then again I haven't driven the car that much so we shall see!

I do love the E36, I have driven the E46 with SMG and have been awfully tempted to take it home. I think of the E46 as a gadget, but its addictive. My car is about to break the 30k mile mark, and I do drive it. The ageless looks and the pure joy of driving the E36 keeps it in my garage. Well if the exhaust wasn't taking its spot. Plus its safe enough for my girlfriend to drive, who I have to admit is not a racing driver. If I wanted a coupe, it would be an E30, which will be added to my garage one day as will a 993 Porsche. Baby steps.
 

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E36 M3 probably the most telepathic car I have ever driven. Another 30-40 hp, some good springs and shocks, and it is simply amazing.:applause:

The M5 will get sorted, if you post questions or need help, and put it in the title, you will get good responses here. Most everything has been done before, so try searching, you will usually find a ton of info. And on top of the first page is a "sticky" section which is a cornucopia of sorted information.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I agree, the car needs another 30-40 hp. Some good shocks and springs would be nice. My car is one of the few unmodified virgin cars out there, so I have issues messing with it. Its almost perfect besides some rock chips and some wear on the drivers seat(car is driven, but only has 29,640 miles, but is daily driven until M5 is up and running). Most of these cars are abused and modified, so I will keep this one stock. It will be put back in the garage and made perfect when the M5 is finished. If this M3 hits 60k miles, a euro engine might go in it..then I worry modifying it. I have to know these cars aren't worth anything and I can what I want with it. It was my dads car, so I still have an emotional attachment to what is done to it...Sorry for rambling on. At least its not sitting in the garage still, as of October it only had 24k miles on it.

Thanks!
Adam
 
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