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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just bought a beautiful 2008 Space Gray E60 M5 last Tuesday from a forum member. Great guy to deal with and really helped a lot.

Same day, I drive it in M mode and get to 6,000 RPMs and increased emissions warning comes on and I get reduced power, car seems fine, and the light won't go off.

I take the car to Bavarian Motor Experts in Honolulu, and they tell me they run the car and cylinder #8 misfires a total of two times. They tell me it's not a big deal and to forget it because it's a sensor (???), and that they'll reset it. Same day, I try the same thing again, (not even close to giving this car all it's got and the light turns on), I turn the car off and on, and the light goes away. It was late and they were closed so I couldn't call.

Fast forward to tonight- I try opening it up again, and the light goes on again, but this time won't turn off. I've restarted the car multiple times.

I'm ready to just replace the coil and spark plug and tell them to reset it again. Does this seem fair being that they more than likely misdiagnosed the problem?

I'm almost positive it's a coil. Should they reset the light for free assuming I fix the problem myself, or should I pay?

Does anyone know of a reader I can buy to reset this myself? Thanks!

EDIT: forgot to mention. Forum member was great to deal with and offered to pay for repairs (and kindly paid for them to reset the light). I just don't want to bother him again with any of this being as it's been a week and it was the mechanic's fault they misdiagnosed something that needs to be fixed.



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It could be an ionic sensor. Easy test would be to swap L to R and R to L and see if the miss fire moves to cylinder 3. These do go bad on occasion and people start chasing it with spark plugs and coils. It's easy and something you can do yourself. If the misfire stays at 8, then swap coils with another cylinder and see if it moves.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It could be an ionic sensor. Easy test would be to swap L to R and R to L and see if the miss fire moves to cylinder 3. These do go bad on occasion and people start chasing it with spark plugs and coils. It's easy and something you can do yourself. If the misfire stays at 8, then swap coils with another cylinder and see if it moves.

Thank you so much!

Now, I might sound silly, but I'm curious as to what do these sensors look like, where are they located and where should I get them from? Will the light reset itself if this problem is fixed?

Thanks!

EDIT: so there are only 2 sensors in total??
 

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They are on the top front of each valve cover. They are under that black plastic raised cover. You will get a light if there is a misfire even if it transfers to the other side. You have to read the codes through all this but the code will stay there even after you fix the car if you don't clear it. The light comes on only when the fault is active. So if you fix it, the light will stay out, but old faults are there to read if you don't clear them. I would clear all codes after each trouble shooting step.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They are on the top front of each valve cover. They are under that black plastic raised cover. You will get a light if there is a misfire even if it transfers to the other side. You have to read the codes through all this but the code will stay there even after you fix the car if you don't clear it. The light comes on only when the fault is active. So if you fix it, the light will stay out, but old faults are there to read if you don't clear them. I would clear all codes after each trouble shooting step.

Can I clear these with any OBD reader or do I need a special one?

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
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Discussion Starter #7
Alright, I placed the New Ionic sensor in on the drivers side cylinder bank, and I still have the light on. Am I going to have to reset it myself, or will it take a few drives?
 
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If you did the following and still has the cylinder 8 misfire:

1.) change plug
2.) change coil
3.) change ionic current module for bank 2

Then:

4.) Change injector

If it is not fixed by now, then:

5.) compression test on that cylinder.

If it gives back a low reading of around 125-psi:

6.) check the valve springs. If one is cracked, then great ~ replace it.

7.) if valve springs are fine, then you have bad rings or a worn cylinder. Any more steps after this will just be you crying about the engine failing. :-/. Hopefully it stops at step 3.)


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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Edit: didn't read your first post, thanks!

Thanks, Troy. I haven't hooked it up to ISTA yet to see if it's still showing up on cylinder number 8. Do I have to reset the light first and then see if it comes on again? Or should the increased emissions light gone away if the problem had been fixed?

If you did the following and still has the cylinder 8 misfire:

1.) change plug
2.) change coil
3.) change ionic current module for bank 2

Then:

4.) Change injector



If it is not fixed by now, then:

5.) compression test on that cylinder.

If it gives back a low reading of around 125-psi:

6.) check the valve springs. If one is cracked, then great ~ replace it.

7.) if valve springs are fine, then you have bad rings or a worn cylinder. Any more steps after this will just be you crying about the engine failing. :-/. Hopefully it stops at step 3.)


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Reset it, then see if the fault comes back on cylinder 8. If it does, then it's not your Ionic module, so change the plug/coil/injector on no8. If it switches to cylinder bank 1-5, then you need to replace the Ionic module.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The beast lives!!!!

Thanks to B767Captain and everyone else. I have finally experienced M mode with no loss of power, and OMFG!!!!!

No errors, no problems, no loss of power. Torque throughout the entire spectrum of speed. Now I can put the coil covers on and sensor covers back on. I just have to reset the light when I get my cable! So much stress and worrying gone, now to diagnose the SMG startup issue that's happened twice now.

You guys are awesome and so helpful, thanks!
 

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I had that happen to me and the dealer replaced 2 O2 sensors, nothing changed. Finally I started getting the Reduced Engine Power signal and the car went into limp mode. It turned out to be a bad alternator. Unfortunate thing with our cars is when one system goes down, it end up being a long drawn out road to actually find out what the culprit was. Glad you finally sorted out the beast!
 
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The beast lives!!!!

Thanks to B767Captain and everyone else. I have finally experienced M mode with no loss of power, and OMFG!!!!!

No errors, no problems, no loss of power. Torque throughout the entire spectrum of speed. Now I can put the coil covers on and sensor covers back on. I just have to reset the light when I get my cable! So much stress and worrying gone, now to diagnose the SMG startup issue that's happened twice now.

You guys are awesome and so helpful, thanks!
what was the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ionic sensor for the driver's side cylinder bank.
 
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