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I know I sound like I have no idea what I'm doing, but I guess, technically, it's true. I have a small shop in my garage, can work on just about any of my friend's cars, but there's almost nothing I want to even mess with on my M5, sorry to say. I've had it for about 2 years, I'm thinking of trading + cash for a E9x M3.

In the mean time, I have a lot of random things I want to fix, I'll stick with the top 4 issues that I need to resolve.

1. Losing power to Radio/Nav, ABS, EDC, Power Steering, Speedometer, and probably a few other items during my drive. Happening almost every day, happened 4x on my way home tonight. Only lasts for a second, music stops, Nav Screen Turns off, steering becomes heavy, speedometer goes to 0, tons of lights on my dash board, screen comes back on with about 3 warnings including ABS and Power Steering. Power steering sometimes remains out until I restart the car. It doesn't appear the CCC is rebooting, as I immediately return without the BMW bootup. My guess is something's loose, it could also be a bettery or alternator problem, but maybe someone has experienced this problem before.

2. Burning oil pretty quick. I get that the M engines tend to drink quite a bit, and yes, I use Castrol TWS, 10qts of that liquid platinum. With a 10qt change and new filter, I usually sit about +1.5qt on the dash. At about 1/2 the service interval (where I usually change it), I'm sitting at -0.5. That's 2 qts burned off. I've been lazy, since I'm not currently in my home town. I topped it off about 3 weeks ago with 1qt. Already burnt it off. I noticed that the underside of my oil cap is brown and nasty, typical of someone who uses cheap oil or doesn't follow the correct intervals, I've never seen such dark staining from a synthetic like Castrol.

3. With the SMG, my clutch is about 10,000mi old, it's been changed since I owned it, by a BMW Authorized shop (reputable place). I can't recall if this problem existed before, but I know it exists now. About 1 in 5 red lights, even the slightest touch on the petal seems to confuse the launch system. I just want to go like a granny, I tap the gas, the SMG drops the clutch and then immediately lets off. Not enough to break the tires loose, but it feels exactly like being hit from behind by another car.

4. This is just one of those things that gets to me. The left (-) paddle seems to have broken on me. No longer does it have a firm click, it's soft and reacts to the slightest touch. A new one is about $300, just wanted to see, maybe it's just a spring or screw? Any ideas.

Thanks
 

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How are you coming to the conclusion that you are losing power to the aforementioned components? Are you monitoring the power to them in real time while you're driving? or just assuming they are losing power because they are going out? Keep in mind they could be losing ground, too.

Get yourself a multimeter and backprobe into ground and power on the back of the KOMBI and see which one you are losing. It's a far cry, but you may have a CAN disruption taking them all out too. A multimeter will tell you for sure. You should have 2.3v/2.5v full time with KL15/R/30 on you CAN L/H wires.
 

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1. Losing power to Radio/Nav, ABS, EDC, Power Steering, Speedometer, and probably a few other items during my drive. Happening almost every day, happened 4x on my way home tonight. Only lasts for a second, music stops, Nav Screen Turns off, steering becomes heavy, speedometer goes to 0, tons of lights on my dash board, screen comes back on with about 3 warnings including ABS and Power Steering. Power steering sometimes remains out until I restart the car. It doesn't appear the CCC is rebooting, as I immediately return without the BMW bootup. My guess is something's loose, it could also be a bettery or alternator problem, but maybe someone has experienced this problem before.
I had similar issues like this not too long ago. It was a failing voltage regulator triggering all of the errors. I had mine along with the alternator replaced and the issue went away.
 

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IB DinanS2++ e60m5 6MT, Dogleg s38b38 e28m5 TT/ST3, e30 TT/ST4
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Curious to ask, what makes you think the s65 in the e92 will be any different? The s65 and s85 are nearly identical.

#1 is more than likely your voltage regulator/alternator. Very common and easy to resolve. If you do a search, you will find plenty of threads on the topic.

#2 How many miles on your s85? What's your oil change interval? You said you topped off three weeks ago, how many miles was three weeks ago?

#3 and #4 I can't help you because I have a 6MT.
 

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1) As has been already said, it's more than likely just your voltage regulator. The systems go to fail safe mode when they see voltages that are too high, which is what is causing the temporary shut downs. There's a small chance your alternator itself needs to be changed, but in most cases replacing the voltage regulator does the trick - it's only about $100 and a relatively easy DIY.

2) The systems maximum reading is +1.5L, if I'm not mistaken, while the minimum reading is -0.5L. There was a software update at one point that made it so some cars simply say "ok" or not, and don't give an actual number, but it seems you don't have that. Also, there are some software revisions that have the maximum as 1.6L, but based on my logic below, you also don't have that software version. That said, whenever you have a reading of one of those numbers (-0.5 or +1.5) it also means you can be beyond that. So you could actually be way above that, and probably are. Considering you have an 06 M5, unless you had a new engine put in at some point, it's more than likely you have a single drain bolt in your oil pan (newer cars have two). I also have an 06 with a single drain bolt. When I changed my oil last, I drained the car bone dry while it was read 0.4L and then refilled it with 8.5 quarts, and afterward it read 1.1L. So if you are putting 10quarts in, you're probably at like +2.5L all things equal. The revised fill quantity is 8.8L, which I believe was then revised to be 8L, check levels, and top off as needed.

Running too much oil in an engine is not good for it and causes higher than normal pressures which breaks down seals and can worsen the rate of oil consumption. If this seems to be the norm for the way you run your engine, I'm willing to bet there is irreparable damage and this is why your oil consumption rate is as high as it is. Also, now that you know you are really burning closer to 4 quarts and not just 2 quarts per interval, the fact you burn another quart in 3 weeks does not surprise me. But, at the same time, "acceptable" is 1qt every 1000 miles and even so you seem to be burning at a rate not so great.

My final word of advice is to not let your car run too long in the negative oil level. Your car has an eletronic dipstick for a reason, where the "OK" level is between 0 and 1.2L, while the car starts giving your grief starting at +0.2L to start adding oil. Why would you ever let it drop that far?

3) My bet is every time this happens you are stopped at for a long time on level and take your foot off the brake and just let the car rest there. Well, if you ever though about how the SMG works, it's basically a manual transmission. To be "ready to go" for you, it basically has to be in 1st gear, with the clutch depressed all the time. This would absolutely annihilate a throwout bearing over time. To prevent this, BMW makes the car go back into neutral after a certain period of time to protect the throwout bearing against wear. Most people have their foot resting on the brake, and when the take their foot off the brake (99.9% of the time with the intention of applying throttle), the car sees this and immediately puts it into first gear and awaits throttle. When your foot isn't on the brake and the car has gone to neutral, it has no indicators to go into 1st, so when you apply throttle it instantly throws it into first and tries to engage the clutch simultaneously and that usually results in your BANG. Try this - either keep your foot planted on the brake or before your accelerate from a stop, always just give the brakes a tap. I bet you'll never encounter the issue again.

4) The paddle is broken, yes. It's uncommon, but does happen. You could try to remove it and repair it, but from the photos I've seen, the way it breaks makes it very hard to repair in a reliable manner. I would just suck it up and buy a new one.

Good luck.
 

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#3) Have an adaptation performed. Not unusual at all on a new clutch. As the clutch friction surface bed in (not at all unlike brake pads/rotors), the friction coefficient become significantly different. Performing the adaptation again, spefically on the clutch slip point will "teach" the SMG computer how to not drive like a 16 year old again.

#4) Concur, broken paddle hinge arm. Also not uncommon, but typically we break the right side out of...excitement. Underengineered plastic part.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How are you coming to the conclusion that you are losing power to the aforementioned components? Are you monitoring the power to them in real time while you're driving? or just assuming they are losing power because they are going out? Keep in mind they could be losing ground, too.

Get yourself a multimeter and backprobe into ground and power on the back of the KOMBI and see which one you are losing. It's a far cry, but you may have a CAN disruption taking them all out too. A multimeter will tell you for sure. You should have 2.3v/2.5v full time with KL15/R/30 on you CAN L/H wires.
Sorry, I wasn't trying to debate what "Losing power" meant. I have about 8 unrelated electrical items (you can add all orange interior lights to the list), turning off and back on again at once. I was looking to be able to trace all those seemingly unrelated items back to a single common source, like a ground lead, power lead, computer, contactor, etc. Or more likely, it's the result of another problem, like the Alt or Batt.

What is the KOMBI?
I had similar issues like this not too long ago. It was a failing voltage regulator triggering all of the errors. I had mine along with the alternator replaced and the issue went away.
Thanks, a lot of people seem to be mentioning this, so this will probably be my first thing to look at.

Curious to ask, what makes you think the s65 in the e92 will be any different? The s65 and s85 are nearly identical.

#1 is more than likely your voltage regulator/alternator. Very common and easy to resolve. If you do a search, you will find plenty of threads on the topic.

#2 How many miles on your s85? What's your oil change interval? You said you topped off three weeks ago, how many miles was three weeks ago?

#3 and #4 I can't help you because I have a 6MT.
#1. Wanna trade? Lol

My real intention is to get a 6MT, I feel I made a big mistake falling in love with this car without first holding out for a 6 Speed. In all honesty, I have a HUGE BMW dealership nearby that gets a lot of M cars, I'm considering putting up some cash and my car for "Any M car with a 6MT" As much as I like (everything about) my M5, my old M3 was even more of a blast, and easier to maintain. Full disclosure, I've already dumped $11,000 into the transmission, and that's mostly parts.

Anyway, I'll focus my efforts on the alternator.

My S85 has just north of 80k miles. The 3 weeks of driving that took about a quart of oil is somewhere around 500-600mi. Oil change interval is a little more difficult for me to answer. I use the Service Miles indicator, change oil and reset the indicator at the half-way point (7500 service miles). I've put about 10-12k on it, since I've owned it, this woud be my 3rd time changing it, so that works out to about every 4k actual driven.

1) As has been already said, it's more than likely just your voltage regulator. The systems go to fail safe mode when they see voltages that are too high, which is what is causing the temporary shut downs. There's a small chance your alternator itself needs to be changed, but in most cases replacing the voltage regulator does the trick - it's only about $100 and a relatively easy DIY.

2) The systems maximum reading is +1.5L, if I'm not mistaken, while the minimum reading is -0.5L. There was a software update at one point that made it so some cars simply say "ok" or not, and don't give an actual number, but it seems you don't have that. Also, there are some software revisions that have the maximum as 1.6L, but based on my logic below, you also don't have that software version. That said, whenever you have a reading of one of those numbers (-0.5 or +1.5) it also means you can be beyond that. So you could actually be way above that, and probably are. Considering you have an 06 M5, unless you had a new engine put in at some point, it's more than likely you have a single drain bolt in your oil pan (newer cars have two). I also have an 06 with a single drain bolt. When I changed my oil last, I drained the car bone dry while it was read 0.4L and then refilled it with 8.5 quarts, and afterward it read 1.1L. So if you are putting 10quarts in, you're probably at like +2.5L all things equal. The revised fill quantity is 8.8L, which I believe was then revised to be 8L, check levels, and top off as needed.

Running too much oil in an engine is not good for it and causes higher than normal pressures which breaks down seals and can worsen the rate of oil consumption. If this seems to be the norm for the way you run your engine, I'm willing to bet there is irreparable damage and this is why your oil consumption rate is as high as it is. Also, now that you know you are really burning closer to 4 quarts and not just 2 quarts per interval, the fact you burn another quart in 3 weeks does not surprise me. But, at the same time, "acceptable" is 1qt every 1000 miles and even so you seem to be burning at a rate not so great.

My final word of advice is to not let your car run too long in the negative oil level. Your car has an eletronic dipstick for a reason, where the "OK" level is between 0 and 1.2L, while the car starts giving your grief starting at +0.2L to start adding oil. Why would you ever let it drop that far?

3) My bet is every time this happens you are stopped at for a long time on level and take your foot off the brake and just let the car rest there. Well, if you ever though about how the SMG works, it's basically a manual transmission. To be "ready to go" for you, it basically has to be in 1st gear, with the clutch depressed all the time. This would absolutely annihilate a throwout bearing over time. To prevent this, BMW makes the car go back into neutral after a certain period of time to protect the throwout bearing against wear. Most people have their foot resting on the brake, and when the take their foot off the brake (99.9% of the time with the intention of applying throttle), the car sees this and immediately puts it into first gear and awaits throttle. When your foot isn't on the brake and the car has gone to neutral, it has no indicators to go into 1st, so when you apply throttle it instantly throws it into first and tries to engage the clutch simultaneously and that usually results in your BANG. Try this - either keep your foot planted on the brake or before your accelerate from a stop, always just give the brakes a tap. I bet you'll never encounter the issue again.

4) The paddle is broken, yes. It's uncommon, but does happen. You could try to remove it and repair it, but from the photos I've seen, the way it breaks makes it very hard to repair in a reliable manner. I would just suck it up and buy a new one.

Good luck.
1) OK, I'll check that out. I'll probably go with the complete Alt. My experience is (even with my old M3), these high-revving engines tend to be murder on Alternators. I think my E46 went through one every ~50k.

2) Good information about the indicator. IIRC, The indicator shows the last quart, so 0.0 means you have 9qts in the engine, and 1.0 means you have the correct 10qts. It's acceptable to be driving anywhere between 0.0 and 1.0.

Yea, I realize that too much oil is no good. I've always been told that it gets too high on the crankshaft and causes it to froth, which can lead to oil pressure issues. And also, the only reason I let it get that far is because it kinda snuck up on me (I'm going to check for a leak, but I have no other signs of one).

3) Wow, thanks. I never thought of it that way. And yes, I'm so used to driving MT, that I prefer sitting at red lights without using the brake (unless I'm on a hill).

4) yea, I'm most likely going to have to dish out the $300 for a button, so I thought I'd first see if maybe something just popped out of place. Since I'm installing it myself, I'll be able to get a better look of the old one when I take it out.

#3) Have an adaptation performed. Not unusual at all on a new clutch. As the clutch friction surface bed in (not at all unlike brake pads/rotors), the friction coefficient become significantly different. Performing the adaptation again, spefically on the clutch slip point will "teach" the SMG computer how to not drive like a 16 year old again.

#4) Concur, broken paddle hinge arm. Also not uncommon, but typically we break the right side out of...excitement. Underengineered plastic part.
The adaption was performed when the clutch was done. I think Revo has the answer. I drive the SMG too much like it's a MT and by not holding the brake at a red light, I'm confusing the transmission.

Glad to see there's some prior history on that paddle hinge. I guess I wound up breaking the left side, also out of excitement. Since the SMG does all the thinking for me, I hit the '-' button: Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap Tap, meaning, "Put me into the lowest gear possible, I'm about to blow the doors off this Camaro."
 

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The adaption was performed when the clutch was done. I think Revo has the answer. I drive the SMG too much like it's a MT and by not holding the brake at a red light, I'm confusing the transmission.
I meant have it performed again. Adaptation is a poorly chosen term for it as it should have been "calibration". With any new installation, the electrical and mechanical parameters drift and vary over time and it should be reperformed periodically.

I replaced my clutch last October and had to reperform the adaptation 3 months later to get the smoothness back.

The 'rear ended' feeling is not unheard of either. Most who have had it report that an adaptation fixes the problem as well
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just updating. I have most of everything squared away. Add to the list, I ran my back tires so low that I got a flat, lol. So New rear tires on my baby. Spent $1000+ in one weekend.

I replaced the Alternator. Buddy was able to get me a brand new OEM (Valeo) for a decent deal, so I went with that. It was definitely the Regulator. Before I replaced it, the interior lights were dimming, brightening, etc.

The Oil issue, I think the gauge is a little off, but it's due for a change, anyway. I put 1L in and it bumped my reading up 1.5L.

Clutch issue. Yup, I started acting like an automatic driver and holding the brake at the stop light, sure enough, no more slamming me into my seat.

Shift paddle. Believe it or not, it works again. It doesn't have that nice Ka-Chunk feel when I click down, but it has the same range of motion and resistance as before. It will be in my future to replace.
 
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