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Drawing closer to clutch change and had a couple questions. First, on the rear seal is it best to buy the whole cover with the seal already installed or just buy the seal. Second, anyone have any recommendations for a machine shop in Texas or close who can modify the Luk flywheel for the Sach's performance clutch (also want it lightened). Any suggestions? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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Drawing closer to clutch change and had a couple questions. First, on the rear seal is it best to buy the whole cover with the seal already installed or just buy the seal. Second, anyone have any recommendations for a machine shop in Texas or close who can modify the Luk flywheel for the Sach's performance clutch (also want it lightened). Any suggestions? thanks
I'll take a stab at the RMS.

If you are confident in your abilities to seat the RMS correctly (some people push it too far), then it is much cheaper. However, in a DIY job, sometimes cheaper means a little help and getting it done right the first time; the whole cover with the seal installed should prevent any error on seating the RMS later. Compare price of each, measure against your confidence level (and help on this board) and decide accordingly!

As to machine shops, you might check with tradin1, I believe he is in Texas and should be knowledgable about that.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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I wouldnt lighten the flywheel unless you like to hear CLACK CLACK CLACK

Really? I was under the impression that a lightened dual mass flywheel didn't rattle.
 

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Really? I was under the impression that a lightened dual mass flywheel didn't rattle.
Maybe, you could be right on that. I was just under the impression that it wasnt the design it was the weight that was making some of them chatter. But I suppose if its still dual mass you might not have the issue.
Im sure someone else will chime in with the answer...
 

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Really? I was under the impression that a lightened dual mass flywheel didn't rattle.
Dual mass rattles LESS, but will still give you some noise, particularly after some miles (76k in my case). Nothing like the folks that swap for lighter options. I've heard it's similar to constant diesel clatter at idle. Do a search - this topic is right up there with oil and tires . . .
 

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Drawing closer to clutch change and had a couple questions. First, on the rear seal is it best to buy the whole
cover with the seal already installed or just buy the seal. Second, anyone have any recommendations for a machine
shop in Texas or close who can modify the Luk flywheel for the Sach's performance clutch (also want it lightened).
Any suggestions? thanks
If you are lightening the flywheel along with the modification for the new clutch, do yourself a major favor and
start with a new flywheel. With all the springs, gears, bearings, etc. that are inside, all of this just plain wears
out. With lightening your old flywheel, the rollover noise due to this wear will be compounded. Per BMW, the
flywheel should be replaced with every other clutch replacement, because of this. In all likelihood, the flywheel
in there now has extensive burning/hot-spots on the friction disk.

More cost upfront, but the advantages outweigh the longer term consequences in my opinion.

Regards,
Alan
 

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If you are lightening the flywheel along with the modification for the new clutch, do yourself a major favor and
start with a new flywheel. With all the springs, gears, bearings, etc. that are inside, all of this just plain wears
out. With lightening your old flywheel, the rollover noise due to this wear will be compounded. Per BMW, the
flywheel should be replaced with every other clutch replacement, because of this. In all likelihood, the flywheel
in there now has extensive burning/hot-spots on the friction disk.

More cost upfront, but the advantages outweigh the longer term consequences in my opinion.

Regards,
Alan
Voice of sweet reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice guys. Definately going to start with a new flywheel and go from there. Trying to source the best price at the moment. Cant seem to find them cheaper than 560 on ebay.
 

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Is it safe to assume a new OEM flywheel will be balanced properly to match an engine? I suppose engineering tolerances are much better than some of the vintage cars I work on. Whenever I have an old V8 rebuilt, I have the rotating assembly spin balanced, which includes the flywheel on the manual trans cars.
 

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Maybe, you could be right on that. I was just under the impression that it wasnt the design it was the weight that was making some of them chatter. But I suppose if its still dual mass you might not have the issue.
Im sure someone else will chime in with the answer...
I wouldnt lighten the flywheel unless you like to hear CLACK CLACK CLACK
Posts like this burn my butt. You admit that have NO CLUE what you are talking about, yet make your first comment as if you do.......

"Silence is golden" Please do not make comments like this unless you KNOW it is true. You could be totally misleading someone.

Is it safe to assume a new OEM flywheel will be balanced properly to match an engine? I suppose engineering tolerances are much better than some of the vintage cars I work on. Whenever I have an old V8 rebuilt, I have the rotating assembly spin balanced, which includes the flywheel on the manual trans cars.
You do not have to do that with these cars.....

in before fast5 and Rufm5 aka CNS reps come in here spewing their CNS lingo.
OH LAWDS......
 
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