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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, my M5 has gone down.

My mechanic says that I need a new timing belt hydralic tensioner, and he says its a big job to replace. He says that maybe the best thing is to buy a new engine because there is a possiblity that the valves are bent.

Did this ever happened to anyone.

I have a 2000 M5 with 125k on it.

Thanks for the response.
 

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It looks like you shoud change the... mechanic as in S62 engine there is no timing belt. There is timing chain.
How he know that it snaped?
Jan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Im sorry, he says the chain.

I was just driving and made a stop at the mall and the car just turned off, i tried to turn it on again and it started then it just turned off. After the 4th attempt, the engine made a rattling sound, so I turned it off quickly.

When the car was towed to the mechanic, the car did not start at all, just kept trying to start. No rattling noise after that. So I do not want to start the car at all until I find out what is the problem. When I opened the oil cover, the chain seems to be nice and tight, but what do i know.

Right now, the mechanic is charging me 46 hours to change the tension for the timing chain. I think thats too much. So, right now, Im not sure what to do. I dont want to go to the stealer, but Im looking for another mechanic in the Orlando, Florida area.

Thanks.
 

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if your mechanic is charging you 46 hours labor then I would rather take it to the dealer
I think Fields BMW is in the Orlando area
 

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Geez this guy is jerking you around. 46 hours :rofl the dealer at this point will cost you less.

And timing chains can break but it is VERY rare. and a doubt it your problem.
 

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but if the timing chain actually failed and the chain skipped a few teeth, you may have bent valves. More diagnostic work is needed. Easy to check valve timing by pulling off the cam covers. Then compression or a leakdown test to see if the valves are sealing or not. If ok, new chain and tensioner, if not, pull the heads and replace the valves. It's understandable to be hesitant on doing a top end overhaul on a 125k motor.
 

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Geez this guy is jerking you around. 46 hours :rofl the dealer at this point will cost you less.

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+1

You call the dealer a 'stealer' but 46 hours is OK for changing a tensioner?? Yikes.

You need a new mechanic. FInd some senior members on this board in your area and ask for recommendations via PM.
 

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It started a total of four times after the initial symptoms, then not again...doesn't sound like a timing chain break to me. If that was the case, I'd think that the car wouldn't start at all.
 

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...

Ask him if the flux capacitor also needs to be changed...

broken chain will not start the car...unless the chain was on its way out the first four times and eventually it broke and hence your car not starting.

get another opinion but try not to mention what this mechanic said or speculate on the issue to the new mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all your advice guys.

Im gonna take the car out of this mechanic and going to another mechanic.

I called bavauto.com and the parts are gonna be around 4.5k+/-.

This includes:

$42 chain
$171 each, 2 tensioners
$940 each, Intake & exhaust vanos gears
gaskets
$144.00 lower timing chain
$93 lower chain tensioner
Guide Rail $43
$93 Deflection rail

He says to check the teeth.
Buy a (bentley repair manual)

intake valves $22 each
exhaust valves $49 each
valve springs: $8 each i need 32 of them.

The search continues...

Back to my Ford Explorer. Its gonna feel wierd.

I will keep you guys posted.

Eddie
 

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odds are the timing chain did not break, they usually just stretch with age. IF the tensioner did actually fail (not something we've heard of on the board), it could have jumped a few teeth. Then yes, it could start, valves could hit pistons and bend them. Eventually, there would be no compression and the car would no longer start. It's not an unheard of event on the e34 board.

Still, first thing to do is check cam timing. If it's off, then do a leakdown test. If theres no compression, pull the heads.
 

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First of all, the chain can't snap just like that. It is not a timing belt. Before chain break the engine is becoming very noisy. And not at 125 thousand miles. It is too early. Also you mentioned that it is still tight. And in real world it is imposible to jump by a tooth or two. I was reparing the engines with broken guide rails and despite that the chain didn't jumped (been very loose).
The mechanic shoud do a compresion test and cylinder leak test. Ask him for the results of these tests. Did he code read the car? Any faults? I'm suspecting something fair more simple like cam position sensor.
Jan
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I dont believe the chain broker either, but when I try to start the car, it did not make any other noise, just tried to start but it did not. No valve noise.

It did make a valve noise, when I tried to start it when it went down. After that, no noise at all. Doesnt completely start.

Im gonna take it to another mechanic to do a diagnostic test.

Hopefully I will get a detailed problem.

Thanks again for your advice and help.

Eddie
 

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what ever happened with this? Did you get your motor problem solved
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just received my car back yesterday. The problem was that my intake hoses were shot, and some of the parts of the hoses went into the valves and in time, the valves could not close completely. So that is where loss of power occured, so the mechanic had to open up the engine and clean out all valves, and thank G-d the valves did not break. He charged me $2300.00 to do the job. I'm not sure if that was a good deal or not. He states he changed a lot of sensors in the engine. He also states he reseted the computer too. But now the cars runs faster. Still need to change my MAFS since when I first turn the car on, it does not level, up until I turn the car on the second time.
 

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He charged me $2300.00 to do the job. I'm not sure if that was a good deal or not.

Lets see $2300 or 46 hours worth of labor( not even including parts yet)...
The car is running good, count your blessings.
 

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Same mechanic as the beginning?

If so, you were definitely screwed.

In the future, you want an itemized list of all parts and sensors that were replaced- so when the car starts flaking out later, you have proof of what was and was not done. And you can get a warranty on the parts/labor that was alegedly completed.
 
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