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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p><o:p> </o:p>
My car is in need of some repairs/maintenance and with the repair budget being limited I am trying to prioritize repairs.<o:p></o:p>
I can spend about $1000 in the first half of the year on repairs based on my budget. I am hoping you guys can help me prioritize based on importance and long term damage avoidance etc.<o:p></o:p>
I was up for DIY until I had to get under the car for SSK install, very unnerving for someone like me who has been repairing/maintaining motorcycles all my life. Being under the car was a very uncomfortable feeling.<o:p></o:p>
For now I am only factoring the fluid changes as DIY and the rest getting done at Indy (M Performance in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on">Cary</st1:City> <st1:State w:st="on">NC</st1:State> or Shady Tree in <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Raleigh</st1:place></st1:City>)<o:p></o:p>
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The car needs the following:<o:p></o:p>
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- Center link and both Tie rods (mentioned in PPI, steering has ½”-3/4” play-dead zone)<o:p></o:p>
- Front rotors/Pads: Rotors have a Lip and the steering has slight shake under hard braking at higher speeds<o:p></o:p>
- All 3 rear differential Seals are weeping. Only 1 bad enough to leave a drop if car is parked 2 nights in a row<o:p></o:p>
- Rear Differential fluid and trans fluid needs to be replaced.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Thank you<o:p></o:p>
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You can do all of the things on your list for the $1000 price, if you can do the work yourself. I dont want to harp on you or anything, but you MAY want to consider either DIY work or to sell the car if you are on a $1000 annual budget.
 

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If you cant do the work yourself I would start with the brakes. Then your tie rods. Reasoning is: safety and tire wear.
 

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Grab a side job and have it all done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You can do all of the things on your list for the $1000 price, if you can do the work yourself. I dont want to harp on you or anything, but you MAY want to consider either DIY work or to sell the car if you are on a $1000 annual budget.

I dont mean to Harp on you but I THINK I said my budget was $1000 for the first half of the year
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you cant do the work yourself I would start with the brakes. Then your tie rods. Reasoning is: safety and tire wear.

I see your point, I didn't even think about the extra tire wear.
 

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If you've ever replaced an air filter on a modern supersport, you can do your own brakes lol. Trust me, the M5 is no different than anyother car in terms of brakes, and actually almost everything.

Brakes are easy, theres even a write up here. The tie rods and center link arent bad, but honestly, id probably pay a shop with an alignment rack to do it, reason being, if you do it yourself, you'll end up driving it there to get an alignment anyways, they may give you a good deal if you get it all done at once. Tie rods and center links are not hard to replace.

The diff seal is the only one that a DIY may have a bit of trouble with. But i would keep an eye on the level and just make sure it doesnt get low, untill you can afford to fix it.

Are you sure its not the thrust arms causing the shake at higher speed?
 

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If you've ever replaced an air filter on a modern supersport, you can do your own brakes lol. Trust me, the M5 is no different than anyother car in terms of brakes, and actually almost everything.

Brakes are easy, theres even a write up here. The tie rods and center link arent bad, but honestly, id probably pay a shop with an alignment rack to do it, reason being, if you do it yourself, you'll end up driving it there to get an alignment anyways, they may give you a good deal if you get it all done at once. Tie rods and center links are not hard to replace.

The diff seal is the only one that a DIY may have a bit of trouble with. But i would keep an eye on the level and just make sure it doesnt get low, untill you can afford to fix it.

Are you sure its not the thrust arms causing the shake at higher speed?
 

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1) fresh fluids all around. Cheap and needs to be done.
2) brakes. ONLY IF you are really sure they need replacing. Maybe do just the front, then the rears later in the year if they have life for it. Shaking is most likely not an issue with the rotors IMO, but lower control arms. The fact that there is play in the steering means there are loose componets and those may be causing the shaking.
3) If the brakes look like they have at least 10K miles left on them, I would look into replacing the tie rods and center link as this may make the shaking issue worse, and if yu know these are worn, its a good place to start.

Use the board and DIY. This board will help you get past any issues you come across.
 

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I had to do pads and rotors on the 540iT last summer, I'd never done pads and rotors save for my '76 MG midget about 25 years ago, and they were a PITA. However, after doing the Touring's, I WILL NEVER PAY ANYONE TO DO PADS AND ROTORS AGAIN!

Here's what I used for a guide... Doug's Domain :: BMW Brake Replacement DIY just have the right tools, some card board for under each wheel when you change them to catch all the brake fluid & dust and some anti-seize to coat the wheel hub before putting the new rotor on. You can put each end of the car on blocks or simply do each wheel with a jack lifting the wheel up.

It is a dirty job [all the brake dust] but after the first wheel is done, subsequent wheels will be easier and faster. It really is a simple straight forward job. Just be very careful about the brake sensors or you will break it when pulling it off. Use needle nose pliers *carefully* and if you do break it, just order in another one, you can run the car without it installed. Bet you can do the job on all four wheel for under $350.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2) brakes. ONLY IF you are really sure they need replacing. Maybe do just the front, then the rears later in the year if they have life for it. Shaking is most likely not an issue with the rotors IMO, but lower control arms. The fact that there is play in the steering means there are loose componets and those may be causing the shaking.
3) If the brakes look like they have at least 10K miles left on them, I would look into replacing the tie rods and center link as this may make the shaking issue worse, and if yu know these are worn, its a good place to start.

quote]

Thats a good idea. I was planning on doing the same, waiting for the front end to get sorted before changing rotors.

The diff/trans oil I will either replace in the very near future or wait till March/april when I can get the seals done at the same time. I drive about 500 miles a month so I am hoping the 1-2 month delay wont hurt too much
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I had to do pads and rotors on the 540iT last summer, I'd never done pads and rotors save for my '76 MG midget about 25 years ago, and they were a PITA. However, after doing the Touring's, I WILL NEVER PAY ANYONE TO DO PADS AND ROTORS AGAIN!

Here's what I used for a guide... Doug's Domain :: BMW Brake Replacement DIY just have the right tools, some card board for under each wheel when you change them to catch all the brake fluid & dust and some anti-seize to coat the wheel hub before putting the new rotor on. You can put each end of the car on blocks or simply do each wheel with a jack lifting the wheel up.

It is a dirty job [all the brake dust] but after the first wheel is done, subsequent wheels will be easier and faster. It really is a simple straight forward job. Just be very careful about the brake sensors or you will break it when pulling it off. Use needle nose pliers *carefully* and if you do break it, just order in another one, you can run the car without it installed. Bet you can do the job on all four wheel for under $350.
Thank you for the link.

I did the rotors/Pads on my Audi A6 and am hoping its about the same. It was an easy DIY even for a goon like me
 

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The tie rods and center link arent bad, but honestly, id probably pay a shop with an alignment rack to do it, reason being, if you do it yourself, you'll end up driving it there to get an alignment anyways, they may give you a good deal if you get it all done at once. Tie rods and center links are not hard to replace.
Your knowledge and advice is always spot on brother, but I respectfully disagree with this. The shop will WAY overcharge for that work. It is a simple enough DIY that there is no need to pay anyone to do it. The 5-10 miles driven to the shop on a terrible alignment won't hurt anything. I take my car to Firestone to have the alignment done, taking advantage of their lifetime alignment. I paid $130 and can take my car there as many times as I want to get it aligned for free. They know me well enough that I can name my specs, and they set them. Find a shop and form a relationship with them. Makes life easier.

The diff seal is the only one that a DIY may have a bit of trouble with. But i would keep an eye on the level and just make sure it doesnt get low, untill you can afford to fix it.

Are you sure its not the thrust arms causing the shake at higher speed?
EXCELLENT advice here. Fixing the suspension might make the shimmy go away. I couldn't believe the difference after changing my thrust arm bushings.

You could also ask for help from local members, I know there are a few in the area. Be clear what you want to accomplish, invite them over to help, buy some pizza, add some icy cold adult beverages, and you have yourself a mini meet my friend. Good times for all.
 
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