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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so i try to start the car last night after a week of not moving it and nothing, it would start for like half a second and just shut off, battery was kind of low so i left it slow charging over night, pulled the codes with my peak reader and got the following.

82 EWS signal, manipulation detected
9B Control unit self test, adaption EEPROM master
9C Control unit self test, adaption EEPROM slave

Now this morning battery fully charged gave it a try and nothing, same issue would start and shut right off immediately, cleared the codes and only got back the 82, i have no idea where to start looking so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just so you guys know i replaced the following with in the last month.
all 4 cps, crank cps, fuel pump with relay and all abs sensors, it might not be related but i replaced every single suspension related part also installed FK coilovers.

Thanks. Rafael.
 

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It sounds like the EWS is keeping it from starting. The EWS being the control module that verifies that the right key is in the car before it will start. The EWS and DME need to be "aligned" as BMW calls it. If they are not aligned then the car won't start. They can get out of alignment if you try to start the car more then about 5 times with a dead battery. The only way I know how to fix the alignment is to use a GT1 to realign the DME and EWS. Depending on where the car is I may be able to help you. PM me your Email address if want some help.
 

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Battery or cables, check them again. When I first got my car in 2007 I had the same codes and it ended up being a loose connection on the battery. Double and triple check them. Also hook up another car and try to jump it. Sometimes a deep cycled battery still doesn't have enough CCA amps to start our cars, ask me how I know :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Battery or cables, check them again. When I first got my car in 2007 I had the same codes and it ended up being a loose connection on the battery. Double and triple check them. Also hook up another car and try to jump it. Sometimes a deep cycled battery still doesn't have enough CCA amps to start our cars, ask me how I know :D
Tried jumping it with my truck this morning but no luck. I'll double check everything once I get home.
Thanks for the reply and forgot to thank you for the underpanel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It sounds like the EWS is keeping it from starting. The EWS being the control module that verifies that the right key is in the car before it will start. The EWS and DME need to be "aligned" as BMW calls it. If they are not aligned then the car won't start. They can get out of alignment if you try to start the car more then about 5 times with a dead battery. The only way I know how to fix the alignment is to use a GT1 to realign the DME and EWS. Depending on where the car is I may be able to help you. PM me your Email address if want some help.
I'm afraid that is what happened, reason is because when I was bleeding my brakes i was trying to start it with a dead battery couple of times.
So do I have to take her to the dealer to realign the dme?
 

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Its the EWS for sure. Dont bother trying to jump it or do anything else, it IS the EWS

Do you have other keys? My EWS went kaput and I used my gray (valet?) key to start it while my diamond key still locked/unlocked it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its the EWS for sure. Dont bother trying to jump it or do anything else, it IS the EWS

Do you have other keys? My EWS went kaput and I used my gray (valet?) key to start it while my diamond key still locked/unlocked it.
Ill have to wait till Monday, i dont have an extra set of keys. Thanks for the reply.
 

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you're saying the car starts, runs for a sec and then dies? usually with ews/key issues you have nothing, no crank. if the starter is turning then the ews is working correctly. sounds more like a bad fuel pump to me.
 

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EWS fault

you're saying the car starts, runs for a sec and then dies? usually with ews/key issues you have
nothing, no crank. if the starter is turning then the ews is working correctly. sounds more like a bad fuel pump to me.
A failed EWS (or not aligned with DME) does not inhibit the engine crank, but the DME will not allow fuel scheduling and ignition
due to a failed "hand-shake" between the two units. If it cranks, begins to start and then shuts down the EWS is indeed, the most
likely culprit.

Regards,
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you're saying the car starts, runs for a sec and then dies? usually with ews/key issues you have nothing, no crank. if the starter is turning then the ews is working correctly. sounds more like a bad fuel pump to me.
I don't think it's the fuel pump, as i replaced it about 3 weeks ago along with the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A failed EWS (or not aligned with DME) does not inhibit the engine crank, but the DME will not allow fuel scheduling and ignition
due to a failed "hand-shake" between the two units. If it cranks, begins to start and then shuts down the EWS is indeed, the most
likely culprit.

Regards,
Alan
I think that is my problem, Was running fine not a problem, but my battery drained while working on the car and i did try to "revive" it a couple of times with no luck, it was the following day when i pulled the codes and tried to jump start her that i realized it was something related to the DME.

So you guys think that with a new key it should start right up? i'm trying to avoiding taking her to the dealer, i don't feel comfortable at all leaving her there.
 

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I don't think it's the fuel pump, as i replaced it about 3 weeks ago along with the relay.
then its very doubtful its the pump. before buying a key i'd have someone try and align the ews/dme. unfortunately if you dont have access to dis or inpa then its a trip to the dealer or equipped indy.
 

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I think that is my problem, Was running fine not a problem, but my battery drained while working on the car
and i did try to "revive" it a couple of times with no luck, it was the following day when i pulled the codes and
tried to jump start her that i realized it was something related to the DME.

So you guys think that with a new key it should start right up? i'm trying to avoiding taking her to the dealer, i don't
feel comfortable at all leaving her there.
Given all your inputs regarding low battery, how old is your battery? If over 3-4 years, replace it now and take it
out of the mix for potential problem sources.

Regards,
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
then its very doubtful its the pump. before buying a key i'd have someone try and align the ews/dme. unfortunately if you dont have access to dis or inpa then its a trip to the dealer or equipped indy.
Just ordered a new set of keys from the dealer, should get them tomorrow, if that doesn't work then its off to the dealer. Unfortunately there is not one single indy here Bakersfield that has a GT1.


Given all your inputs regarding low battery, how old is your battery? If over 3-4 years, replace it now and take it
out of the mix for potential problem sources.

Regards,
Alan
Thanks for the reply, battery is about 2 months old.
 

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you would have been better off paying an hour diag at a dealer than rolling the dice on a new key, key is not your problem. this is how the ews works,

The starting sequence of the EWS III (3.3) is as follows:
• The key is inserted into the lock cylinder and switched “ON”. The EWS III (3.3) control
module is powered through KL R and sends a 125kHz AM signal to the ring
antenna. The AM signal induces voltage in the key coil and powers up the transponder.
• Powered up, the key transponder sends the key identification code to the EWS III
(3.3) module. The EWS III (3.3) module verifies the key identification code and
checks to see if the key is enabled. If the key is correct and enabled, a password is
sent to the transponder over the 125kHz AM signal through the ring antenna.
• When the transponders accepts the password, it releases the changing code which
it received from the EWS III (3.3) module during the last start-up operation to the
EWS III (3.3) module via the ring antenna.
• The EWS III (3.3) module compares the
changing code received from the transponder
with the code stored in its memory and if they
match the process is allowed to continue. The
EWS III (3.3) module looks at the other inputs
for correct status (e.g. Code function not
active, Transmission in P or N or clutch
depressed, engine speed below specified
RPM) and energizes the the internal relay to
begin starter operation.
• While energizing the internal starter relay, the EWS III (3.3) module calculates a
stored code from the “Rolling Code Table” and sends the calculated results to the
DME.
• On receipt of the “Rolling Code” from the EWS III (3.3) the DME calculates it’s own
stored code and compares its results with the code it received from the EWS III (3.3).
If the “Codes” match the drive away protection is released and injection and ignition
are enabled and the engine starts.
If the “Codes” do NOT match, the DME “rolls forward” to the next code according to
the “Rolling Code Table” and makes the same calculations. The DME continues this
“forward roll” up to a maximum of 200 times or until a match is found. Failure to find
a match will result in the engine cranking but not starting.
• When the ignition is switched off and no engine RPM is present in both the DME
and the EWS III (3.3) control module each module will automatically “roll forward” to
the next predetermined code based on the “Rolling Code Table”. This new code is
used for the next starting sequence.

the car is cranking so the part of the process which involves the key is working correctly. i'd say ews/dme out of sync or corrupted code table in either dme or ews.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Forgot to update. It was just as Nightkrawler and Vector57 suspected, DME and EWS needed to be aligned.
Thanks for all your knowledge, and Happy Holidays.

Tanks. Rafael.
 

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So I have a code 82 "EWS Signal manipulation detected". My car starts and runs fine, there is no issue there, I am trying to clear my SES light

NOTE: My car has a transplanted motor, done by a well versed M5 guy. Not sure if this has anything got do with it
 

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Yes that likely has everything to do with it. The EWS can be deleted by coding but it can also be by passed by wiring and tricks. My suggestion is to ask the mechanic first what he did because the can of worms might be large if you start messing with a system he tricked. In my book both ways are acceptable so I would just ignore the code.
 
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