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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

I am a bit puzzled with a knocking sound seemingly coming from around the top drivers side area of my engine (passengers side US). I have just replaced the timing chain, tensioners, and chain guides, as well as the big end bearing shells and conrod bolts, all with brand new BMW parts. The knocking sound has decreased compared to before I changed the above but it is still clearly audible. I have uploaded a video of the noise below. What could it be? It doesn't sound to me like a vanos noise, but who knows?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3TnLI2qNNOo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thank you in advance.
 

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I had the same noise on bank 1. Cam timing on the exhaust cam was way off. How long has the engine been running since the repairs? Can also be dry lifters if the tick sound doesn't dissapear with revs. There is a tensioner that sits between the cams also which could be this noise.

Do a vanos test using GT1, my guess is timing is off.
 

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Does the sound go away after driving it for a while? If it does, it is typical lifter noise after the car has been sitting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had the same noise on bank 1. Cam timing on the exhaust cam was way off. How long has the engine been running since the repairs? Can also be dry lifters if the tick sound doesn't dissapear with revs. There is a tensioner that sits between the cams also which could be this noise.

Do a vanos test using GT1, my guess is timing is off.
Thank you for your reply. Engine has not been running really, only on idle for an hour or 2. I am taking it out for a low RPM drive now. Any suggestions on how to drive it? Tick sound doesn't disappear with revs, the frequency just increases with the revs. Will try and get a vanos test done.

Does the sound go away after driving it for a while? If it does, it is typical lifter noise after the car has been sitting.
No it doesn't go away. Will take it for a gentle drive today.
 

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I had the same noise on bank 1. Cam timing on the exhaust cam was way off. How long has the engine been running since the repairs? Can also be dry lifters if the tick sound doesn't dissapear with revs. There is a tensioner that sits between the cams also which could be this noise.

Do a vanos test using GT1, my guess is timing is off.

+1
Sound is lower pitch than lifter tick imo. Sounds more like chain noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I warmed the car up and took it for a long cruise on the motorway for around 45mins the ticking noise was present and ticking speed increased with rpm. On my way back home i pulled off the motor way and gave some short burts of acceleration. I then drove it normally all the way home and to my amazment the ticking had gone, i revved her up a few times all the way to 4-5k rpm and no noise at all.

To test it further i took it around the block and all seemed nice and quiet with no ticking. I floored the car all up to 4500rpm and back to idle and the engine seemed to start choking up and running lumpy followed by the ticking noise returning.

What are your thoughts on this?
 

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read out any codes in the dme, then do a vanos test. report results. doesn't sound like vanos noise to me, i can hear the vanos noise in the clip and its normal. sounds like lifter tick or even rod bearing tap but you said you did them. had a 11' 335xi a while back with a ticking noise, was a rod bearing but it sounded like it was coming from under the valve cover even though it wasn't. doesn't make sense that the noise went away then came back and the running condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
read out any codes in the dme, then do a vanos test. report results. doesn't sound like vanos noise to me, i can hear the vanos noise in the clip and its normal. sounds like lifter tick or even rod bearing tap but you said you did them. had a 11' 335xi a while back with a ticking noise, was a rod bearing but it sounded like it was coming from under the valve cover even though it wasn't. doesn't make sense that the noise went away then came back and the running condition.
Yes I will try and get a vanos test done tomorrow. That's what I was thinking that it isn't a vanos noise, but I will still get the test done. It can't be rod bearings as I changed them under 100 miles ago using all genuine BMW parts and exactly according to TIS and the various DIY threads. So even after the complete timing chain and conrod replacement, the noise remains, really baffling! Also FYI I made sure we measured the old big end bearings and new big end bearings with plastigauge and they were all within BMW tolerences.
 

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yeah do the vanos test as it will at least tell you if the timing is way off. the part about it going away and coming back is rather odd. usually on these cars once you pump up the lifters with oil they stay quiet. i have seen persistent lifter tick but only on NG6 engines, N52/51/54 etc, not on an S62. could be a bearing, know they are new but anything is possible, hope not though. get the codes and do a vanos test.
 

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Also do the Vanos diagnosis request in GT1. It will display the actual value vs DME requested. You will probably see that some values on Bank 1 are way off what the DME is calling for. The tick is probably one or both of the Vanos pistons trying to adjust the timing to the position the DME is wanting, and at idle this is the noise you're hearing. You can see in the pic my Bank 1 exhaust value was way off.

Did you mesh the vanos units with the first available helical gear upon insertion, and did you check the static timing several times before closing up the engine?

This is a great guide for this :

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/201209-diy-vanos-spring-plate-renewal.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Finally, I've managed to perform the vanos test:





Also, I have some fault codes:



Could these faults be caused by my vanos bank 1 tolerances being out?

And do any of you think that the peculiar engine ticking sound I have is as a result of this?
 

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Always a good idea to run the vanos test before putting the plenum back on after doing this sort of work. That way you have less to remove if you need to go back in.

Your other fault codes are not related. Check you havn't unplugged the knock sensors from the loom when you would've had to wrestle with the coil pack wiring. Engine temp implausible will either be the Thermostat or the temp sensor. Ebox fan lives underneath the DME.
 

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I just did the vanos diagnosis request and it seems as though my vanos values are very close to what is specified by the DME?

yeah but bank1 wont even finish the test so you have something going on there. as i said, pull the cover and check the timing. if the timing is ok then you probably have a solenoid or cps problem, assuming the vanos is installed correctly. if all that turns out ok then maybe it is a stuck lifter but that wouldn't explain the driveability problem. if it is a lifter also i'd add some motor flush ie kerosene and maybe a bit of atf run it and get the oil nice and hot, let idle for a while, then drain and refill with fresh oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So, I re-timed my engine about 4 times the other night, bank 1 was ever so slightly out. Took me about 3-4 hours to re-time and get the timing bang on. I then performed 4 vanos tests. Twice I got the "vanos inlet leaking" message, however the other 2 tests both banks passed and conformed to the specified vanos values. After reading a few posts on the vanos inlet leaking message, I didn't think too much of it seeing as I was able to pass the vanos tests on both banks. The knocking sound was also gone after retiming.

So I took it out last night for a long 85 mile drive. I put my foot down a few times to which there was still no knocking sound. As I got back near my home, I accelerated twice to 4000 RPM and there was no sound. Then, suddenly, as I was decelerating and came to a stop at a red light, I heard a weird fast clicking sound. Then, seconds later, the dreaded mystery knocking sound returned, this time at a faster pace and slightly more louder!

I went straight to my garage, performed a couple of vanos tests and both banks passed no problem, along with the vanos diagnosis.

I am absolutely perplexed. What do I do next?
 
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