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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
Warning! Contents contain mild car porn!

It's done. I have the parts and will add more pictures of the bearings here and in the Bearings thread.

Here is the money shot. Even at a distance with a crappy camera picture, the copper glows like its an LED. I would say that I did this just on time, no? :| :eek They said that there were no metal particles etc...

20170623 M5 bearings 1.jpg

Here are requisite shots of the crankshaft and connecting rods - such as it his. I will just remark that the engine looks remarkably clean. Further, the master mechanic and the technician told me that there was absolutely no marking on any of the journals - that everything looked mechanically very clean.

20170623 M5 bearings 2.jpg
20170623 M5 bearings 3.jpg
20170623 M5 bearings 4.jpg

A shot of the oil pump with new guides in place. The old ones are yellow - I'll take a picture tomorrow.
20170623 M5 bearings 5.jpg

Here is the oil pan You can see the orange pan heater and the Fumoto short stem oil valve. I think that this was before they drilled the extra drain and relocated the bypass oil filter drain hose. Darn. Now I'll have to get under the car, remove the splash shield and maybe even the metal shield and see what they did.
20170623 M5 bearings 6.jpg


And finally, the comparison of the two oil squirters. For some reason they weren't comfortable with the fit of the new one and how close it was to moving parts. Since it doesn't have anything to do with oiling the bearings... I guess I shouldn't be too concerned, right?
20170623 M5 bearings 7.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
These are the best of the bearings that were removed. On the back at one end it says CL in a diamond shape and the number 113 (I think). At the other end, it looks like 288 / 289.

20170623 M5 Bearings best.jpg

These are the worst of the bunch. Stuff of nightmares, I think.
20170623 M5 bearings worst.jpg

Here are two side by side. Perhaps more knowledgeable people can chime in as to whether one would be the "top" and one the "bottom" because they have different curvature.
20170623 M5 bearings curvature.jpg
 

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Interesting to me that the wear is far worse on some of those bearings... You have been using liqumoly 10W60 since your ownership right? Any idea on what intervals the previous owner performed oil changes and what brand/weight of oil? Did you ever do a Blackstone? I'm curious what your lead and copper PPM would have been...

Also, post # 101, picture 2. Are those the (2) high pressure VANOS lines the mechanic was talking about? What's wrong with them?
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
Apparently the PO did regular oil changes once a year. On average he did about 6 - 7K m miles per year. I changed the oil after I got it with liquid moly and then went to 0W40 for the winter where it mainly sat. I have put about 1500 km on the car in the last year. I did a blackstone and posted it in this thread, IIRC.

No those aren't the two lines. There is only 1 high-pressure VANOS oil line that then splits into two to take oil to the two VANOS.

I misread on the invoice. They were talking about the VANOS line filters - apparently I only had one in the kit that I got. Given how clean the oil was, the mechanic doesn't think that there is a rush to change the other one. But I'll have to buy one and do it - probably next year when I take care of the VANOS solenoids.

As far as the uneven wear across bearings goes - that seems typical from everything that I've seen in the S85 bearing thread.
 

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The different 'curvature' happens when bearings are overheated and they loose their press-fit to the con rod. That's the beginning of a spun bearing (and engine overhaul required).
 

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There's one filter in the block that the FAMS kit includes. There's a filter screen/mesh in the vanos pump that is not available as a separate part. Then there's two more filters, one on each vanos unit, again not available separately. Wonder what other filter your mechanic was thinking of...
 

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Discussion Starter #107
There's one filter in the block that the FAMS kit includes. There's a filter screen/mesh in the vanos pump that is not available as a separate part. Then there's two more filters, one on each vanos unit, again not available separately. Wonder what other filter your mechanic was thinking of...
I'm clueless about the S85 little bits. Still learning a lot, and this information really helps. I have no idea. I was talking to the owner - who only consulted on this from time to time. I'll have to speak to the technician and ask him about this. I think that this may be a case of the kid's telephone game where you repeat a phrase through the chain of kids and it comes out bizarre at the other end.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
This is a picture of the oil pump chain guides. They are not brittle - but solid and strong. They have been discoloured by hot oil, I imagine. It looks like there is a very thin and small line down the face of one - but barely. I would say that they didn't need changing and are able to stand up to the environment that they're in.

Does anyone have an estimate on the actual real world life of these things. Given that there are E60 M5s around with 150K miles + with original bearings ( :eek how did they do it?), it seems likely that the chain guides' life is at least that long.

20170624 M5 oil pump guides.jpg
 

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There's one filter in the block that the FAMS kit includes. There's a filter screen/mesh in the vanos pump that is not available as a separate part. Then there's two more filters, one on each vanos unit, again not available separately. Wonder what other filter your mechanic was thinking of...
I'd love to know where the two on the vanos units are located ('06 E60 S85).....I can't find em. Got a pic or a diagram?

Nevah mind....I found them. As Troy sez a T-30 should take em out. That didn't work for mine....but a flat blade with some patience worked....and mine were clean. Surprisingly since my vanos granaded....no metal in the vanos lines.
 

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I'd love to know where the two on the vanos units are located ('06 E60 S85).....I can't find em. Got a pic or a diagram?

Nevah mind....I found them. As Troy sez a T-30 should take em out. That didn't work for mine....but a flat blade with some patience worked....and mine were clean. Surprisingly since my vanos granaded....no metal in the vanos lines.
Oh, then perhaps you can you post a pic of them? I knew about their existence, but haven't seen them either.
 

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This is a picture of the oil pump chain guides. They are not brittle - but solid and strong. They have been discoloured by hot oil, I imagine. It looks like there is a very thin and small line down the face of one - but barely. I would say that they didn't need changing and are able to stand up to the environment that they're in.

Does anyone have an estimate on the actual real world life of these things. Given that there are E60 M5s around with 150K miles + with original bearings ( :eek how did they do it?), it seems likely that the chain guides' life is at least that long.

View attachment 795801
Nothing wrong with them, but I would have replaced them if i was in there. Hit them with a hammer and you will see if they are brittle or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
I've been looking at my bearings, Clevite reports, and other postings on various forums. I'm pretty much convinced that my damage is due to oil starvation. Clevite says the number one reason is clearance, followed by blocked oil passages, followed by blocked oil pickup screen or oil filter. I'd like to add fuel dilution to that.

Fuel dilution, IMHO, occurs when the car is allowed to idle or is driven so that it takes a long time to reach operating temperature (if ever) or it is not driven very long at operating temperature. I think that if you drive the car hard for longer periods that any fuel dilution burns off. I also think that most oil samples are collected after driving the car and the fuel dilution number does not represent what may be going on in the oil with regular use. Just a theory, but driving the car for short periods at normal speeds / lower rpms might lead to fuel dilution which leads to thinner oil on the bearings at various times. For example, my report below was on an oil sample taken after the car had been sitting and idling for a bit. I suspect that if I had gone out for a vigourous drive for 20 - 30 minutes that the fuel dilution would be a lot lower. I'm also drawing on all those who race the car and experience NO or very little bearing wear. :dunno: But, this is just a hypothesis. We'll see the next time that I take an oil sample, right?

Perhaps it is the combination of bearing clearance and fuel dilution that is the big issue. I'm hoping that JColley will be working on that BE Bearing car, soon, and that we will get some insight into what the 'proper' clearance on bearings has led to in terms of wear.

Here is my only oil analysis report from this post #53 here

Here is the report which hi-lights that fuel dilution has reduced the viscosity (IMHO) quite a bit over several hundred kms.
I'm a novice to this sort of thing, and I'm wondering what leads to fuel dilution - i.e. is it a mechanical issue that can be resolved? Also, there is the titanium level which I have no clue as to what that really means, nor if it is a bad thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
We've registered for an HPDE Lapping course this Friday at Calabogie speedway. It will be my first time behind the wheel on a race track. We'll get 1.5 hours of class and then 2.5 hours total on the track with an instructor in the car. I'll be taking the M5. My wife will use the 540i. Should be interesting. Gulp.
 

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We've registered for an HPDE Lapping course this Friday at Calabogie speedway. It will be my first time behind the wheel on a race track. We'll get 1.5 hours of class and then 2.5 hours total on the track with an instructor in the car. I'll be taking the M5. My wife will use the 540i. Should be interesting. Gulp.
Nice! I don't know when will I ever take my M5 out to the track. There's still quite a lot of stuff that I want to get it fixed so that it's fully prepared for thundering around the track for as long as it can. :frown
 

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Discussion Starter #117
I just can't catch a break. I went and filled the M5 up with gas, getting ready for the drive tomorrow AM up to the Calabogie racetrack.. When I got back and parked the car, I started getting the "Engine Hot" messages and the oil temp started to creep up. I rev'd the engine a bit to increase circulation (who knew our water pumps were mechanical?) and got the "Shut the d*mn engine down NOW! message). So I did.

I don't think that my electric fan is coming on anymore. Looks like I can't take the M5 tomorrow for the race day. My wife will give me the E39 540i and she will take the E60 530xi.

What a disappointment.

I went in with INPA and ISTA and it seems that all there was were errors in every module. The kms were earlier, so I cleared them all. I started the engine after things had cooled down a bit - and the oil temp almost leapt to the halfway mark. I heard the fan come on and saw KTMP drop from 99 down to 92. Then it began to reverse (couldn't hear the fan) and I shut it down around 100C, only to see the temp climb to 105C with the engine off. F***.

This weekend, I guess I'll drive around the block and see what error codes show up and then follow through on that. *sigh*.
 

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Discussion Starter #119 (Edited)
Probably. She's the perfect b.itch :x

Just went out to move the M5 (give room for the garbage trucks to come through our little cut de sac tomorrow) and heard the electric fan come on and the temp dropped rapidly (while sitting) from the high nineties down to the low 80s (C).

I got out and lifted the hood. The fan was pulsing - i.e. it would start and go almost turbine loud then essentially stop and wind down from there. Then repeat again.

I'm going to get up even earlier and take it for a test drive tomorrow - but I don't think that I should take it to the track. Worst thing would be to be unable to drive it and have to rent one of the track's Mustangs at some ridiculous price.

I don't have time now - but I will take the metal covers off of the top of the radiator / bumper cover and check the fan connections. Apparently it's very easy to take out and then maybe I can check out the performance with a 12V battery.

EDIT: Or not. Apparently there is always 12V to the fan.. But, it needs a "pvm" signal to tell it to do its thing. With all the fans that have apparently died over the years, it's funny that there doesn't seem to be a DIY for this hob.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
I'm a little confused and wondering if this is a REALOEM error. It has the E60 M5 (well my car) with a mechanical water pump.

Waterpump - Thermostat

No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
01 Coolant pump, mechanical 1 11517838201 $392.22 +core
02 O-ring 68X5 1 11511711484 $3.44
03 Thermostat housing 1 11537834271 $234.47
04 Hollow bolt 2 11537834275 $5.32
05 Connector 2 11537834274 $12.72
 
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