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Hi guys

I was wondering if someone could advise - is a 3 Amperage wire sufficent or an 11 amperage?

many thanks for everything so far!
 

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Hi guys
Sorry to ask again
But was wondering if someone could advise if a 3 amp wire is ok to use or do I need the 11 amp 18-22awg
Am going to try and fit this today!!! Hopefully works well!!
Thank you
 

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Thank you Aswell Dan for your advice
I will be giving this a go tomorrow!!!
Big thanks to Everyone so far-- hopefully goes ok!!
Also that is a very helpful guide you have made on this topic aswell Dan
You guys are geniuses!!!
 

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Hi guys - Today i tried to install the blinker turn signals - i followed the below advice and the diagram.
But when i completed my circuits and plugged everything in - Nothing happend
The signal lights failed to even come on - What does that mean - is that my wiring is incorrect?

I then tried wiring up the connecter with diffrent wires in diffrent place - Still nothing came on

I then re inserted the old lights and they are working again so far.......
What do you guys think???? your help is greatfully appreciated
Also a trick i learnt today is that we dont actually need the hassle of removing the front bumper to take the turn signals out!
Also one diffrence in my cars wires from the instructions below was that on the right side connecter - insted of having a Red-Blue line
i have Blue and brown line - Every other wire was correct as stated in the instructions below - Would this make a huge diffrence
Please advise me guys of where you think i went wrong.Thank you in advance




STEPS

Remove the LMA module connector
Then...
Move the wire 68 Blue/Green-line on the position 1 (on US car, I think you must remove the wire there, and put the tape on it, perhaps you could use it for a future setup :haha:)
Move the wire 24 Red/Blue-line on the position 2
If you want to begin now with the front
On the left side, open the cover inside the wheel arch, disconnect the connector on the LED blinker
Cut the two OEM connector, you will have then...
1 wire Blue/White-line
1 wire Blue/Green-line
2 Brown wire (one won't be used)
On the right side, open the cover inside the wheel arch, disconnect the connector on the LED blinker
Cut the two OEM connector, you will have then
1 wire Blue/Grey-line
1 wire Red/Blue-line
2 Brown/Yellow-line wire (one won't be used)

So now connect like my join diagram
 

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It's a little difficult to troubleshoot the wiring based on your post. If the OEM lights work, then you haven't messed anything up. If you have a voltmeter, it would be helpful measuring the voltage at each pin when the new turns are connected, even though they do not light. That will give the clue where the wiring may be incorrect. The wire colors might be different than Mimi74 described them due to country differences perhaps?

I know his diagram works. You could also run 12v directly to the new turns just to see if they illuminate as a test
 

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Once again - Many thanks for your helpful advice Allan -
I never thought about actually using the voltmeter - Something so simple!!!!
My thoughts are the wiring must be incorrect as they were simply not lighting up. Even if it was incorrectly wired they would surely
come on and hyperflash maybe.
I have no doubt the lights work - I purchased direct from BMW here in the UK only two weeks ago - I bought both the turn signals
and tail lights - The tail lights i have already installed with no problem!
There was only one wire that was different from Mimis diagram - which was on the right connector - A blue and brown line insted of Red and blue line - I would imagine the wiring would be the same in both models due to both being european models - am not sure thou.
I will definatly give this another go tomorow - Hopefully get some better luck this time around!
Once again thanks for your wonderful help it is kindly appreciated.
 

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Hi all!!!

Well today I tried this wiring again.... This time the turn signals come on
When I put the hazards on they work perfectly
When I do each signal separately they start to hyper flash immediately
Is there some thing that I have done wrong? How can I solve this
Thanks in advance for the help
Much appreciated
 

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Just an idea. the hyper flashing could either be;
The diodes wired backwards (+/-)
A diode (unlikely both) is defective. Turns independently have a different signal through the diodes than hazard flashers

Are you getting any error messages? You could also try disconnecting one side completely and see if the turns work OK with one side disconnected. If they do, there is still something incorrectly wired.
 

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Hi Allan

Hope you are keeping well, Thnaks again for your helpful understanding and insight into this issue i am having
i really do appreciate it!
Today i tried again for several hours with serveral new Diodes .... But still the car is suffering from Hyperflashing
One thing i did notice was that the car dont show any errors ???? is this supposed to be correct
The lights still work perfectly with hazzards... just not as turn signals
i did notice for 5 seconds the turnsignals do start as they are supposd to then all of a sudden they will hyperflash
i just dont know how to solve this problem - I have followed the diagram exactly
Today i even tried to wire in a resistor on the circuit - 7w - 47R, This didnt even solve the hyperflash, maybe i needed more resistor!
im not too sure anymore --- both sides are producing the same problem -
any further advice is gratefully appreciated
Cheers
 

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Hi Allan

Hope you are keeping well, Thnaks again for your helpful understanding and insight into this issue i am having
i really do appreciate it!
Today i tried again for several hours with serveral new Diodes .... But still the car is suffering from Hyperflashing
One thing i did notice was that the car dont show any errors ???? is this supposed to be correct
The lights still work perfectly with hazzards... just not as turn signals
i did notice for 5 seconds the turnsignals do start as they are supposd to then all of a sudden they will hyperflash
i just dont know how to solve this problem - I have followed the diagram exactly
Today i even tried to wire in a resistor on the circuit - 7w - 47R, This didnt even solve the hyperflash, maybe i needed more resistor!
im not too sure anymore --- both sides are producing the same problem -
any further advice is gratefully appreciated
Cheers
This line in your post is the clue 'i did notice for 5 seconds the turnsignals do start as they are supposd to then all of a sudden they will hyperflash'. The reason they look OK during the first few seconds is because the LM Module has not reached the point that it is cold checking the bulb's resistance. (Cold checking meaning it is looking for filament resistance of a standard bulb). It's odd you do not get an error message, but let's leave that aside for the moment.

That tells me the resistor size you added in parallel to the 12v-ground side of the LED input is too high. I wasn't sure if your post meant a 7 ohm/47watt resistor or a 7watt/47 ohm resistor. I surmise the latter. 47 ohms may be a tad too high, telling the LM module the bulb does not check properly. What you need is a maximum 60 ohm (preferably 50watt) resistor, or perhaps a 50,25, or even a 10 ohm , 50 watt resistor. The 50 w size is important as they will heat up as the LED's flash normally. I'm pretty certain that's your problem now that you indicated the initial non hyper flash few seconds. This is a link to an example type of resistor you want. This is a 25 ohm example. Start with a higher resistance first; less heat to worry about.

The other way to resolve the problem is to code out the cold and warm testing of the front turns completely, but I don't think you have the cable/sw etc. to do that. So the proper size resistor is likely faster for you.

Ohmite - 850F25RE - Passive Components - Resistors - Allied Electronics

I just checked with someone who makes these. 6 ohm 25-50 watt will do it. They are commercially available
 

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Hi Allan & Mimi

Hope you are both well!! many thanks for all of your help on this matter, your assitance is worth a million dollars!!
Both of you are geniuses!!!

Well at the moment i have left the lights in they are currently hyper flashing - Allan thanks for the above link - I have ordered
resistors as they are not available locally - I have also ordered a cable for coding the car!
I have never done coding - But I have seen your DIY Allan on Coding - So I am going to give it a go hopefully next week
If the coding fails I will try and install resistors!
Many thanks guys for all your help!!!!
 

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Gents- I'm finally getting around to installing my CIC w/COMBOX. I'm working the COMBOX install now but in order to properly wire the connector I need to know if I have the MULF. If I have it where would it be? The documentation I received with my system details an E70 install so it doesn't do me much good. I've got the back seat out and have removed the TCU....

So far the new screen and CIC are in. They boot up and I can get the menu but when I scroll I only get Settings and CD- the cursor skips over everything else. I'm guessing it's because no coding has been done yet?

Thanks for the MULF help!
 

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Correct on the you haven't coded yet, so the menu should be as you describe for now. The MULF is not a factor for you. It's another module that does not come into play when you replace your TCU with the Combox. (actually they are one in the same on your MY as is mine). You'll be removing the TCU and replacing it with the Combox. I assume you have the wiring changes required. Some wires will no longer be used and will hang free (in case you're wondering). The TCU is located behind the rear seat on the drivers side. The rear headrests come out with an upwards strong lift which will push the headrest rod through a thick hairpin like spring that latches them in an indent on the headrest rod itself. (cab only instruction).
 

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Correct on the you haven't coded yet, so the menu should be as you describe for now. The MULF is not a factor for you. It's another module that does not come into play when you replace your TCU with the Combox. (actually they are one in the same on your MY as is mine). You'll be removing the TCU and replacing it with the Combox. I assume you have the wiring changes required. Some wires will no longer be used and will hang free (in case you're wondering). The TCU is located behind the rear seat on the drivers side. The rear headrests come out with an upwards strong lift which will push the headrest rod through a thick hairpin like spring that latches them in an indent on the headrest rod itself. (cab only instruction).
Thanks! I've gotten everything out and have the wires from the new center console Aux in the connector. Was just waiting on conformation that the MULF wasn't an issue for me. I've been scouring this and a couple other posts at each step. At this point I just need to get the center console out to put the new piece in the armrest.
 

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I'm trying to wrap up the CIC install and have a couple (hopefully) last questions...

1. What is the black antenna connector on the back of the CIC? I don't have anything to connect to it- I dug around inside the dash thinking the cable might have snuck away but there is nothing to be found.
2. COMBOX- The TCU had 3 connections on the bottom- white, black, purple (ish). The bottom of the COMBOX get the BLACK USB connection from the cubby. I see from photos on this thread that there is also another connection made. None of the cables from my TCU will make a connection to the COMBOX.

See the pics below- the beige connector on the COMBOX I believe needs to be connected. Based on pic I saw of ZEROCKS1- it appears the white connector from the TCU should go here but mine won't mate due to different connection types...Thoughts?
 

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