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Lol I would hope the parts are inside!
 

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Looks pretty ;) I would leave it in the box just to keep it clean :hihi:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wonder how much this would cost with no warranty..
The total cost with no warranty is $29k (parts and labor according to the dealer). In order for them to approve the claim the dealership had to get the total cost below $25k and they got it down to $23,600. You have to remember that the warranty company (Hendrick Auto Group) owns the dealership...lol!
 

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That's a relatively great deal as my dealer quoted me $32K for new engine installed when my rod bearings went.
 
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I've seen the term 'long block' before in engine/descriptions. What exactly does that mean? I apologize in advance if this is deemed a stupid question but inquiring mind want to know.....:dunno:
 

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The total cost with no warranty is $29k (parts and labor according to the dealer). In order for them to approve the claim the dealership had to get the total cost below $25k and they got it down to $23,600. You have to remember that the warranty company (Hendrick Auto Group) owns the dealership...lol!
29K is for the long black fully assembled correct ? Or you mean assembled + cylinder head + labor + installation ?

Chris
 

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I've seen the term 'long block' before in engine/descriptions. What exactly does that mean? I apologize in advance if this is deemed a stupid question but inquiring mind want to know.....:dunno:
"long block" generally means that the heads are included with the block as opposed to a "short block" which is the bottom end only (block, crankshaft, rods, pistons, etc).

Easy way to think of it is:

short block = bottom only
long block + bottom and top

with either of the above, you remove the remaining needed parts from the old engine and install them on the new long or short block. Stuff such as intake manifolds, pulleys, brackets, hoses, etc, to make it complete.

Hope this helps.
 
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