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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This forum is amazing and inspiring! I am blown away form what I've seen you guys do.

Attached are some photos from my new (to me) 2003 M5 purchased from another M5board member a couple weeks ago. It is a great car and I am in love with it. She just had a bubble bath this morning. I tried to take detail shots of the finish, and areas that could use improvement.

Any critiques, process, and advice would be greatly appreciated. Here is a list of items that I have. Items with a ($) have not yet been purchased, but looks like I need to make this car shine.

Overall:
Zaino Z-7 Show Car Wash
Zaino Z-18 Clay Bar
Zaino Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish for Clear Coated Car Finishes
Zaino Z-5 PRO Show Car Polish for Swirl Marks and Fine Scratches
Zaino ZFX Flash Cure Accelerator Additive
Zaino Z-6 Ultra Clean Gloss Enhancer Spray
Meguiars Quick Mist Detailer
Chemical Guys Detailing Bucket Kit (two-bucket method)
($) Chemical Guys Porter Cable 7424XP Detailing Complete Detailing Kit with Pads, Backing Plate and Accessories

Wheels and exhaust:
P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner
Chemical Guys Wheel Guard Rim and Wheel Sealant
($) Red Devil Steel Wool, 0000 Super Fine

Engine bay:
Scrubbing Bubbles
Griot's Garage Engine Bay Dressing

Misc:
EZ Detail Brush
Griot's Garage Lug Nut Cleaning Brush
Hog hair bristle detailing brush
Zaino Custom Polish Applicator
303 Aerospace Protectant
Waffle Weave Microfiber Towels
Chemical Guys El Gordo Professional Extra Thick Supra Microfiber Towels
IPA 50/50 solution
($) Stoner 91154 Bug and Tarminator Bug/Tar/Sap/Grease Remover
($) Dr ColorChip for road rash/chips
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just picked up the Porter Cable 7424XP. Judging by what I've seen some of you guys do, it appears some of these scratches need a first pass at cutting/paint correction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Damn man all that hard work detailing and you left 121212121 lbs of carbon all in those exhaust tips!? for shame! HA...

also, the stance on this one is really nice...

last: Hardwire that radar detector up into the sunroof control area, so it can hang up high and won't be down in your line of view for the road.
 

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Your M5 is CLEAN man! Congrats on the pickup and cheers! I know an <a href=”https://www.frisco-auto-detailer.com”>auto detailer</a> if your lived in Texas I highly recommend.
 

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2008 E60 M5 Dinan S2+
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Zaino will make your car shine, but it is not meant for paint correction. Zaino is meant to layer to "cover" and "hide" paint imperfections. But wow - a multi layered Zaino car shines like the paint is dripping. For the at home - DIYers - without fussing with wet sanding, polishers, compounds, etc - Zaino is highly recommended.

But if you really want to get into paint correction for show or concours cars - you have to understand the medium you're working with and correct paint as needed. For example, a F40 has no clear coat, so you go at it with 3M cutting compound and a wool pad on a Makita polisher, and you'll burn right through that paint to the CF/Kevlar. But then you have your newer Mercedes that have ceramic clear coats where you won't even begin to correct minor swirls in the clearcoat unless you tackle it with a heavy cutting compound, a polisher and a wool pad.

For true paint correction, you'll need a polisher like a Dewalt or Makita for the actual paint correction, and a random orbital for the finishing polish. I was and am a Makita guy. You'll need a variety of pads for each device. Wool pads for the cutting, down to the fine foam pads for polishing. For compounds and polishes - 3M cutting compound is amazing at real bad paint correction, but for the rest Menzerna is the best stuff out there, its the stuff that MB, BMW and Audi use at the factory (Menzerna, Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, Menzerna FMJ, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish,). Once you've corrected the paint, then you find a protectant that fits best with your lifestyle.

The traditional Wax gives a really nice wet look and makes water bead in perfect...beads. But pure carnuba wax is actually so hard, you need to warm it up in your hands and literally apply it by hand. Zymol used to manufacture waxes that were near 70-80% carnuba - and those were amazing but a pain to apply. Another thing to remember, most "conventional" waxes contain some time of petroleum or cleaning agent. So the idea that you are "layering" wax is false for the most part, because you are doing some level of cleaning due to the ingredients in the wax. You want a high quality carnuba wax like P21S.

Synthetic sealants were hot for a while. Easy to apply, lasted 3-4 months. Water doesn't bead like wax, but the longer lasting properties made it very popular. A little secret from a former detailing business owner - Rejex sealant ($20 a bottle) is damn good stuff. RejeX Paint Sealant Bundle

Nowadays, you have the highly technical ceramic stuff. Amazing stuff, but you have to follow the directions to the T. But this stuff lasts and lasts. This can only be applied to modern cars with clear coats.

If you want long lasting and a "sharp" clean shine go with synthetics and ceramics. But, if you want that WET look - quality wax or layers of Zaino is hands down, still the recommended route. And of course, if you're working with old paint with no clear coat - only wax.
 
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