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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting a progress thread on the tidy up of my UK-based E39 M5 over the coming few weeks. I've managed to find someone to take on this rot, the main problem being a collapsed jack point on the rear.

All four jack points had been refurbished in the past, but the repair was only really temporary by the looks of it. I'm having the car taken in by a local automotive welder and his mechanic to strip the car down and rebuild these jacking points and arches, cutting out the rot and rebuilding using new plated steel. The whole car will be checked over and the most urgent parts refurbed to keep the body sound for as long as possible. Looking to underseal the car to keep the elements at bay.

While the tank and propshaft are down, I'm also taking the opportunity to change the clutch, flywheel and other small associated parts 'while we're in there'. While the flywheel is off I'll get the rear main seal checked and if it's leaking have that changed. As well as clutch kit and flywheel I'm also changing the following:

Driveshaft guibo - 26112228781
Clutch fork lever - 21511223302
Clutch ballpin spring clip - 21517570284
Throwout Bearing guide bush - 23111222722
Flywheel spigot bearing - 11211720310
Clutch pressure plate screws (x6) - 07119906045
Pivot ball pin (stainless OEM part) - 21511223281

Here's some of the before shots, hopefully get the underneath looking good and sealed from the elements very soon. Also nice to have a quiet clutch!

Split/rust on front wing




Front drivers side sill



Rear driver side jack point and arch rust







Passenger side rear arch and jack point



 

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Discussion Starter #2
Passenger side rear jack point





Bootlid rust starting around number plate lights. Also not pictured is the seam along the bottom of the boot lid getting between the layers. I'll probably source a good bootlid and have it painted and placement badges bought in the near future.



A bit starting on the fuel filler cap lip inside

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think it'll be worth putting a bit of money and effort into this car, they're a rare beast on the roads these days and enjoying it so far.

Got these two being fitted, and a couple of images of the full car. From a distance hides it's flaws quite well I feel!



Awaiting dropping off for minor surgery





 

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Good work! (To be done) I'm doing something very similar on mine soon when it gets a bit warmer. I've got a bit on the fuel filler bay, a piece on the rear number plate mount and a touch on the driver's side skirt. Out of interest how old is your beast? Mine is early 2002 but doesn't show signs of rusting jack points..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks! Mine's a mid-1999 but suspect it's been a daily in some harsh winters and lived outside. Best to keep a check on the jack points and underneath on the sills fairly regularly especially if it's a year round daily like mine.
 

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Good effort there!

I have something similar in mind, if I don't this year then the surface rust will prove a much bigger task to tackle into the future.

Let me know please who you are trusting the work to, and I will get mine booked in also.

Meet would be good, perhaps at the Cars & Coffee meet in Liverpool next time? Details usually on Pistonheads.

Work at Pier Head, Liverpool and live on the Wirral :biggrinbounce:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was recommend a local welder from a member on the board, who's friend is restoring a MK1 Clio Williams. His work is very good I've seen it myself. He's got a mechanic who he uses doing the strip down work. All he does is welding and is very good at it I've heard. He runs Dickinson restorations in Lancashire and restores classics. I'm going over Tuesday to see the progress and update this thread :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes that's right Jamie it's Mike. I went for a visit recently as my neighbour works with him and mentioned he had an M5. Two carbon blacks within a few miles :)
 

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Looks good so far Jon, deffo worth the effort, as you say from a few feet away the car looks a million bucks. Your taking the right approach, don't cover anything up get it sorted at source, you are only adding value to the vehicle which is increasing in value year on year. Oh and I'd deffo be getting the train to work more often as well.......

J, if you want to come over and have look at Phil's Williams Clio he is restoring just let me know, he's also got a 205 GTi to restore, I've not seen that yet but proper retro classics, and the fabrication work is top draw.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Progress update today. Went down this morning for a look at the car stripped down, fair bit of work to be done. Ordered some replacement sill sections which will be box sectioned at the jacking point so there's no hole for the jack pads and fully sealed. Before it's reassembled It'll be undersealed everywhere using some epoxy mastic 121 as recommended by Chris from Dickinson Restorations.

Buy Epoxy Mastic

Going to require an rear interior strip down, the rot cot out from the rear floor and boot area and welding in new metal then red-oxide/undersealed. The sills are in a pretty bad way as you can see from the pics below.














 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quick update: looks like a few panels under the boot floor were quite rotted, and that replacement panels from BMW weren't too expensive. So I've ordered the following underfloor panels to have welded in and sealed over.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Parts 9, 10 and 11 in the above RealOEM diagram.

Also 'while we're in there' I ordered some replacement hand brake cables as the passenger side hadn't been working so easier to replace both now, and my fuel tank straps were in a very bad way so came across some stainless replacements someone was selling. Shouldn't be an issue going forward now, especially with an extra coat or two of epoxy mastic 121 :)
 

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starting to get the same bubbling on the front rockers like you have. for 280,000 i figured i got away with it for a good amount of time.
 

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DatV8 do you have rust under your doors?
All 4 of my jack points have rust, 3 of my doors are rusting at the bottom and I have one small bubble on a quarter panel. I am in Virginia but the car came from Boston Mass. After seeing this thread my car looks great compared to DatV8.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DatV8 do you have rust under your doors?
Yes there's some paint bubbling starting at the bottom edges on one of the rear doors but when it goes in for paint I'll see to that. Yes underneath looking quite scary in places right now, but should be nice and solid once it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Quick update, dropped some parts off today mentioned in post #14 and underneath has had one side rear floor beam section rebuilt along with starting on the boot floor. I'll be picking up replacement sills on Saturday morning and dropping them off, then I'll proceed to underseal the entire rear end where required and ready for re-assembly to get it off the ramp in the workshop. Another order of underseal Epoxy Mastic 121 going in so I've got 15m2 of coverage ready. You can see in the pics below the rebuild which will be coated with red oxide before going over with a good helping of underseal.



 

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Wow, epic project there. Out of curiosity how much were you quoted for this lot? I don't think mines quite this bad, but it's definitely on its way.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not been quoted a set in stone figure as it's a case of stripping it down and seeing what needs doing. Mine was fairly bad in parts so I'm suspecting with all labour to strip it down, weld it all up and replace parts while you're there will be easily about £2K. Upshot is it should be solid for many years with proper sealing and regular check ups underneath
 
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