For the Bleeding, this is what i did. I used a pressure bleeder, so i hooked it up to the master cylinder reservoir, and pumped it up to 20 psi. Next i did the normal process of right rear, left rear, right front left front. I also banged on calipers with rubber mallet just in case. Next i hooked up INPA, and did the same process, just with activating both presupply pump and abs pump. (im not sure activating presupply pump is needed though). So my steps with INPA are open bleed screw, activate pumps, pump pedal 5 times, close bleed screw. Do this for all 4 corners. Note that activating abs pump takes a second for the air bubbles to get from the pump to the rear calipers. I ended up using about 2 and a half of those little 12oz bmw brake fluid bottles from start to finish.Today I undid the mounting screws that mount the ABS assembly and using a mirror that has LED lights took a look underneath. Totally dry under there. I detached the hard lines and removed the assembly. The assembly is double boxed with bubble wrap and on it's way to BBA Remanufacturing for a full check out, cleaning and testing.
Will be sitting back while waiting for all the parts, etc... come in.
I am still looking for detailed procedure for the ABS reinstall and bleeding using ISTA+ and/or INPA software for the whole brake system. Seems that the software presents many items that can be activated, but no clue which to do/not do and in what order. I have read many posts but nothing very comprehensive (for dummies).
So, with INPA like on my picture it should be something like this: running the preload pump 1 & 2 and F5 ABS pump?I dont have each individual valve option in INPA, only running the presupply and abs pumps. So cycling the pumps essentially loosens the bubbles in the unit, i dont see how cycling the valves does anything, as the valves are normally open.
Sreten which version of INPA are you running? Don't think I have those valve options either.How did you go about cycling the ABS with INPA?
Do you have the same options as I do? If yes, which sequence do you follow to activate the valves - first intake RR, exhaust RR, then RL, etc... ?
My guess on the valves is simply that opening and closing may knock loose small bubbles that can stick to them. Probably not critical but good for the OCD crowd.I dont have each individual valve option in INPA, only running the presupply and abs pumps. So cycling the pumps essentially loosens the bubbles in the unit, i dont see how cycling the valves does anything, as the valves are normally open.
The BMW parts catalog shows different bleed screws for front and rear. Front is supposed to be 34116768018, #5 in pic of front and rear 34116758107, #5 in pic of rear. These two different sized bleed screws are used across a bucket load of BMW models/years. Interestingly, I just did a brake flush on my E90 M3 and E90 330i this weekend and thought about you while I was doing the work when I saw a couple of small bubbles come out the rear on the 330, lol. Anyway, the fronts on both cars were bigger than the rears as specified. The fronts took an 11mm wrench while the rears took a 9mm wrench. I just did a brake flush on the M5 before I sold it last summer, but I can't recall the specifics now, but these should be different from what I can see.Have to get Pelican Parts to send me rear bleed screws for the front calipers even though their web site shows different front and rear bleed screws.
Hello, I'm a new member here and have been reading this thread with great interest. I would like to suggest for others that when trying especially, to loosen, brake compression fittings a "flare" wrench must be used. This wrench has a slot that allows for the wrench to be fitted over the connected hose like a regular open-end wrench but grabs more flats on the fitting. It looks like the attached and will NOT round off the flats of the fitting.If you cut the short hose you should be able to get a deep socket on the leftover stub, tubing wrench on bottom, socket on top,