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Discussion Starter #61
Did you get a VANOS error of any sort though? I am literally not getting any other error except a misfire of the cylinders. I even ran VANOS tests in DIS and they all came back clean.
 

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Nope there was no evidence (at least in the error memory) of any VANOS issues and that was still the first thing they went to - I just checked my paperwork and they replaced both the exhaust and inlet valves. I have no idea why they jumped straight to that, presumably they know something I don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Very interesting. Anything VANOS related sounds like a big job. Unfortunately I do not have a warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
7 pages later, and I had enough, so last night I traded in the M6 for a new 435i xdrive. Thanks to everyone who tried helping me to diagnose this issue. Hope to be back in an M soon.
 

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I have a 2009 m6 S85 exact same problem except its on bank one. was driving along on the freeway car started to miss then the cel light came on checked fault codes had misfire faults for all cylinders on bank one. have replaced ionic control module, spark plugs coils and air flow meters so far. not trying to hijack the post just seems we have the same problem.
I have a 2006 M5 S85 SMG with this same problem. Now at dealership after a flatbed truck ride yesterday. From my BlueDriver App I retrieved the following:
• P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
• P0307: Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
• P0308: Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
• P0309: Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
• P0310: Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
• P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

When finally parked I smelled an electrical burning smell from under the hood which became worse after repeated attempts to start the engine. After about 3 tries the starter no longer "clicked" or tried to perform a start cycle. Dealer drained oil at filter and inspected both for debris. None found. I passed along possible left side ionic control module failure and/or Integrated Supply Module from postings on this site. Dealer says they can't manually rotate engine but they didn't remove the spark plugs yet. Thoughts?
 

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Remove plugs and boroscope cylinder walls.

Remove injectors from throttle bodies, lay them in a towel and turn ignition on to check for one stuck open.

No other codes at all? None for fuel pressure?
 

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Remove plugs and boroscope cylinder walls.

Remove injectors from throttle bodies, lay them in a towel and turn ignition on to check for one stuck open.

No other codes at all? None for fuel pressure?
Attachment is from the dealer diagnostics. I'm guessing this means low fuel pressure?
 

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Would a stuck injector cease the engine? The dealership just called again and said the tech is checking the plugs but wanted to know what I wanted him to do after that. I smelled a burning electrical smell when I first got out of the car so it makes sense to me to first locate the burned up device/part. I'm kind of getting the feeling that they're really wanting to just put a new engine in it. :frown

Here is the latest info sent to me from the dealer. I still don't have the code from them related to the other pic I posted.
 

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If they can't turn the motor over, it is hydro locked. Or seized. Possibly a bent rod, hopefully not
 

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If they can't turn the motor over, it is hydro locked. Or seized. Possibly a bent rod, hopefully not
I met with the Tech and SA this morning. All the did was to remove/inspect the oil filter and take oil sample from filter housing. They didn't get around to pulling the plugs but they did try to turn the engine without pulling the plugs and said it would not turn.

Hydrolocked/petrolocked does make sense since I don't believe the injectors has ever been serviced. The car has 167000 since new and has really performed quite well up to this point. I've always had the dealership change oil every 7500 miles with filter inspection and oil analysis by Blackstone. After the 150000 mile mark I went to every 5000 miles. Reports have always been normal.

Jcolloy recommends pulling and testing injectors which I plan to do myself once I get it transferred to my home/garage.
 

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In Process Update

Update - pulled all plugs. Bank 1 (Passenger Side) all nicely burned tips with white/beige tint. Bnak 2 (Driver's Side) all black/fouled. Gained access to the throttle bodies. Bank 1 nice and dry. Bank 2 TB#s 10/9/8/6 full of fuel. The intake valves in cylinder#7 are open along with cylinder #3 in bank 1. Cylinders not full of fuel. Will test injectors today.
 

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Look for fuel in the oil too. Drain the crankcase. Measure how much drains.
 

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Getting deeper

The #10 cylinder fuel injector is, in fact, stuck open. All others remain sealed as the rails are pressurized. I just can't figure out how the bank 2 throttle bodies 9, 8, 6 filled with fuel given only cylinder 10 injector is stuck open. Obviously with #7 intake valves open the fuel went into the #7 cylinder.

Pulled the fan & housing to gain access to main crankshaft pulley. Put a 32MM socket with a long extension and a pipe onto it an cannot get the engine to move in either direction.

Not sure yet if when starter engaged for last time during failed start if it might be jammed into the flywheel or something else.

Does anyone else have any experience with a direction to head now? Looks like starter bolts have to come out from flywheel housing side - not from the top rear of the engine inside the engine compartment. :frown
 

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The #10 cylinder fuel injector is, in fact, stuck open. All others remain sealed as the rails are pressurized. I just can't figure out how the bank 2 throttle bodies 9, 8, 6 filled with fuel given only cylinder 10 injector is stuck open. Obviously with #7 intake valves open the fuel went into the #7 cylinder.

Pulled the fan & housing to gain access to main crankshaft pulley. Put a 32MM socket with a long extension and a pipe onto it an cannot get the engine to move in either direction.

Not sure yet if when starter engaged for last time during failed start if it might be jammed into the flywheel or something else.

Does anyone else have any experience with a direction to head now? Looks like starter bolts have to come out from flywheel housing side - not from the top rear of the engine inside the engine compartment. :frown

I linked my experience above. I was very careful how I proceeded and did not take any chances the bottom end was damaged. My starter clutch failed on mine as well, not discovered until done rebuilding.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60-m5-e61-m5-touring-discussion/313026-boom-goes-dynamite-stuck-open-injector-hydro-locked-s85.html

I doubt they all flooded, just the one. The DME shuts down the entire bank in that scenario and alters cam timing to minimize compression drag on the crank.
 

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