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Having become obsessed with exterior lighting on an 07 Cab, I was determined to maximize those little blank spots on the headlight switch. (Which is part number 61316925259 on the pre 08's)

View attachment 116460 (Exceeded pictures for one thread). This was a picture of our OEM headlight switch


Switch with blank covers removed. ** Note: The best way to remove the blanks is not from the front, where even a thin razor blade can scratch the plastic, as you can see by my first attempt, but rather from the rear by removing 4 torx screws allowing you to open the switch assembly, pop out the small circuit board, and squeeze the tabs that hold the blanks in place. Note** When opening the switch, do not spin the dimmer wheels. If you do the dimmer will not dim, or remain in a low lighted condition.

View attachment 116465 This was a picture of our OEM switch with the blanks removed


Since we don't have fog lights (or so I thought; I'll get to that in a moment), I decided to mirror the Hella LED DRL's that Dan, Whatheheck, shared with the board

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e63-bmw-m6-forum-bmw-m6-convertible-m6board-com/161731-daytime-running-lamps-led-drl.html

After considerable research, removal of the switch, disassembly of the switch, removal of the Light Control Module, (LCM) disassembly of the LCM, voltage testing under numerous conditions, I uncovered the following facts:
- The LCM part number is exactly the same for all M5-M6, U.S and European models. There have been updated part numbers over time, but the part number is the same for all. Some older part numbers have been discontinued, but it is consistent across the M5-M6 models worldwide.
- The headlight switch itself comes in a variety of flavors. Each with its own part number from the 3 Series-5 Series and 6 series, including the M's.
- The real difference in the switch is the quantity of usable buttons and the circuit board embedded within. I won't go into too much detail. Suffice to say I did document what part number and circuit board number is associated with each model
- So, in order to make use of the blank spots, this is what I did

Ordered switch part # 613116925257. This is a EU switch with HUD and Xenon=yes

View attachment 116464 This was a picture of the switch (number xxx257) that has the HUD on/off in the lower right position and a new fog light switch in the upper right position. Lower left is the instrument panel lighting dimmer, and upper left is blank


I wanted to use all the spots as I will describe later, so I ordered part # 61316925254 used from Ebay as well as 61316925252 from eBay UK, each has the upper left fog switch from various models. Here is my collection

View attachment 116466 This was a picture of switches that have a fog light switch in the upper left position. Picture of a light aiming down

My goal was threefold:
1. Ability to control the Hella DRL's, my modded AE's that I've wired as DRL's (previous post you can search for; and I've solved the temperature problem using a 1000ma puck LED driver, which is another topic altogether), the OEM DRL's, which in the pre 08's are H7 Halogens, and maintain the ability to maintain the HUD on and off at will. Each light having the ability to be controlled separately or all on at the same time (not that I would ever do that)
2. Match the light output (Kelvin color) as close as possible to all of the above bulbs/LED's
3. Enable rear fogs. Oh yes, we have rear fogs (thought they were rear reflectors before I started this mission)

So let me cut to the chase...

First I modded the new switch, part # 61316925257, by opening the back (torx screws), popping out the one upper left blank, replacing it with the front fog button, which has a button and receptor, from the eBay purchases. Button gets pushed in the front, receptor gets pushed in the back, and a plastic nubbed snap in assembly that is actually two small contacts that make the electrical contact when the momentary button is pushed. So three items from one of the eBay switches inserted in the xxxxx257 switch.

Now that the new switch has the upper left blank area replaced with what is the front fog switch (picture of a light aiming slightly down vs, the rear fog, which is a picture of a light aiming straight), you simply replace the existing switch with the modded one xxxxxxx257.

new switch illuminated.jpg

In order to remove the existing switch assembly, these are the instructions (Remember I have an 07 Cab, may be different on the Coupe, but I don't think so)

Remove the left air vent connector that feeds air through the door for the window defog

side air vent dr side II.jpg

Use a plastic trim removal tool. There are three tabs in order to remove it

side air vent dr side.jpg

Next you must remove one Phillips head screw holding the switch assembly and the vent above it. Don't drop the screw. I unscrewed it and used a needle nose to remove it without letting it fall.

side air vent where phillips screw is.jpg

Next, use the plastic trim removal tool to remove the switch assy along with the connected left vent. There are three tabs

vent and switch removed.jpg
air vent showing clips.jpg

Now replace the OEM switch with the modded one described above. There are four very small torx screws that hold the switch to the plastic vent assy. When removing the single wiring harness, simply press the tab that locks the lever holding the harness, then lift the lever completely and the harness will detach

You can stop here if you like, because what you've just done is enable the rear fog lights. The HUD switch you will note, is now in the lower right location. The new switch is wired so the HUD will still turn on and off as it did with the OEM switch in the upper right position. In order to turn the rear fogs on, the headlights must be on (either in the auto mode position or the headlights on position, (not the parking light position). And here they are:

Rear Fog on.jpg
Raer Fog on II.jpg

and you will even get an indicator in the instrument cluster

Rear Fog indicator.jpg

So what did I do with that upper left switch that was blank? I used it to control the Hella LED DRL's. Here's how. You will need one more item. That item is known as a Pulse Latching Relay Controller (a flip/flop for those of you more electronically inclined). I picked up a pre programmed one from bakerelectronix.com. eBay is the easiest.

<table style="width: 943px; height: 680px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td colspan="2">PLRC - Pulse Latching Relay Controller




</td></tr><tr><td class="ipics-cell"><form name="ssFrm" action="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=220589956468" target="ssFrmWin" method="post"><input name="ssr" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="iurls" value="0#http://i.ebayimg.com/04#!BkE364gB2k~$(KGrHqUH-EMEsnBYd+,JBLWF(HZEq!~~_14.JPG#!BkE364gB2k~$(KGrHqUH-EMEsnBYd+,JBLWF(HZEq!~~_12.JPG" type="hidden"><input name="dtid" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="vs" value="1" type="hidden"><input name="sh" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="title" value="PLRC - Pulse Latching Relay Controller" type="hidden"></form><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="vs_w-a"><center></center>
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</form></td></tr></tbody></table>If you look at the wiring diagram you will note a number of options to have the upper left switch enable this circuit. To keep this simple, the upper left (front fog light switch you just installed) actually controls a 5v signal from the LCM and passes it back to the LCM to enable the front fog light circuit, (if we had front fog lights). In order to trigger the Pulse Latching Relay Controller (PLRC), you have to feed the 5v to the purple wire (although it shows a 12v input, the device can be triggered with 5v and above. You do not use the red or gray wires at all. The black wire goes to car ground. I used a brown wire behind the drivers side footwell cover that is used for the OBDI socket. There are two ground wires available there.

The white wire from the PLRC is a ground wire that becomes active when the new front fog light switch is pressed. The momentary press enables the PLRC so the state changes to white wire=ground. Push again and white wire= nothing. As you can see by the schematic, the white wire is used with a standard 12v relay (I used the Hella relay that came with the LED DRL's). The schematic is self explanatory using a relay. The relay controls either the 12v input to the Hella DRL's or in my case I hooked the Hella DRL's to an ignition on 12v wire (there is one at the OBDI connector as well) and the gray Hella wire to the parking light wire, which was unused as I have the LCI turn signal upgrades. I used the relay contacts (#30 and # 87 in the schematic) to break the ground to the Hella's. The reason for the parking light connection is to allow the Hella DRL's to dim when the headlights are active.

So basically the new front fog light switch enables/disables the ground connection to the Hella's and you can choose (from bakerelectronix), the state you want the PLRC to remain in after its pressed and the car is shut off. I opted for 'last state it was in". that's the way the HUD on/off switch works, so I mirrored that.

There is one more thing required. The wiring harness that plugs into the light switch has two pins (AMP connectors) blank. They are position #'s 6 ans #7. Position #6 is used for non Xenon cars and position #7 is used for front fogs, (if we had them). Rather than disassemble the connector, I took a piece of 18 ga stranded wire and inserted it into the blank AMP connector location pin #7. It's at the end so it was easy to push it in and it easily mated with pin #7 from the switch. This is the wire that will pass the 5v from the switch to the PLRC.

pin 7 wire add.jpg

As if that weren't enough, My quest to match the Kelvin color of all the forward position lights was done as follows:
- Since the Hella DRL's are fixed LED's, I used that color to my eye as the basis to match as closely as possible
- The headlights are D2S bulbs at 6000K. An almost perfect match
- The OEM H7 DRL's are 6500K Blue Halogens. The reason I chose 6500K is due to the reduced voltage present at the H7 bulb when used as a DRL. I tried various Kelvin Colors, this was the closest match to the low beams and the Hella DRL's
- The AE's are Seuol Z-LED-N's at 5500K. I replaced the Angel iBright LED's with these along with a 1000ma driver and 16 ga wiring to keep the heat down. There is a thread on this if you search.

There is a very good wiring diagram for our cars on
BMW Planet WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - 6 E63 E64

I think that's it. The rear fogs are the easiest of all written

Enjoy....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, what a work. So it enables the rear fogs?
Yes it does. Enables the U.S. based M6 rear fogs (at least on the Cab). I aways thought these were rear reflectors next to the reverse lights. Nice gift as I was performing the mods for the Hella DRL's. Only required the EU switch Gus. Still learning little secrets.
 

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I didn't Know that US specs come with fog lights been canceled !!
here's a pic for my M6 with the fog lights , i took it since a year ago .

P1020498.JPG
 

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:cheers: Thank you, zerocks1! I'm new here (this is my first post), and I am so excited that someone finally figured out how to do this. I have been wanting to wire my Laser Interceptors to those buttons for a long time. I have an '09 M3 sedan. Would you have any interest in helping me troubleshoot to get this going in my car? Please :1zhelp: .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
:cheers: Thank you, zerocks1! I'm new here (this is my first post), and I am so excited that someone finally figured out how to do this. I have been wanting to wire my Laser Interceptors to those buttons for a long time. I have an '09 M3 sedan. Would you have any interest in helping me troubleshoot to get this going in my car? Please :1zhelp: .
Hi Budge, So first, I'm not as familiar with the M3 as I am with the M5 and M6. If I understand what you're trying to do is use a blank spot on your light switch to turn your LI on and off at will? If so, it may be somewhat the same as my post for the added LED DRL's. Add a button from an extra switch assembly that contains the switch in the spot you wish to use, find the output of that new switch so that when you press it, it sends a 5v signal to a relay/relay pulse controller, then you find a live 12v wire under your footwell panel which feeds your LI.

If you could post a picture of your switch I'll try and help. I don't usually mingle at the M3 side, but I suggest you post over there and, give me a link to your post, I'll follow you, and answer in that thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Very cool mod! How long did it take to do?
Once I figured everything out, maybe 2 hours tops. Thats after a week of figuring everything out. The short answer is if you want to enable rear fogs, you only need a Euro switch to replace your existing switch. Nothing more. Assuming you have HUD display so the part number would be the same as post #1
 

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OK, I've posted a new thread outlining the project. It turns out I don't need to buy a new headlight controller. The one in my M3 already has functioning buttons and a control board. BMW disabled the buttons, but there was an easy fix. So now I just need to find out if there is a lead we can use that is activated by the front fog button. Please let me know if where I might be able to find a wiring diagram. I'll post pics of my controller in the new thread.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e90-m3-sedan-e92-m3-coupe-e93-m3-convertible-e46-m3-e36-m3-z4-m-z4-m-coupe/173023-stealth-switch-laser-interceptor-install-bonus.html#post2018104
 

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Zerocks1, can you do a tutorial on how you use your Screen Splitter app with the Nav system. I just installed front and rear cameras, and I have another AV input. I tried using my iphone, but the video only works in the iPod application. So once you jailbreak your iphone and get the app, how are your using it? Sorry to threadjack you. :D
 

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Zerocks1, can you do a tutorial on how you use your Screen Splitter app with the Nav system. I just installed front and rear cameras, and I have another AV input. I tried using my iphone, but the video only works in the iPod application. So once you jailbreak your iphone and get the app, how are your using it? Sorry to threadjack you. :D
Budge, there really isn't any secret trick to getting anything that appears on your iPhone to appear on the iDrive Screen. The key is the jailbreak (which at this moment requires an older version of Op SW. current version on iPhone4 is 4.2.1 about to be upgraded any day now. You need an older version that has been jailbroken (until these newer versions are). (Actually 4.2.1 has, and a search will yield that process). Then you d/l Cydia where jailbreak program resides and 'Screen Splitter' is one of many apps that can share whats on the iPhone screen and output same to the video cable.

If you have an available video input on your A/V interface, it should be nothing more than connecting to it and having the iDrive Screen in that input mode. I use a Dension 500, because it allows both the OEM CD player and an iPhone/iPOD to input by switching the fibre optic MOST cabling in the vehicle. That Dension feeds my A/V interface (TVNAVTOGO) in my case and displays anything seen on the iPhone

Hope that helps
 

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Having become obsessed with exterior lighting on an 07 Cab, I was determined to maximize those little blank spots on the headlight switch. (Which is part number 61316925259 on the pre 08's)

View attachment 116460 (Exceeded pictures for one thread). This was a picture of our OEM headlight switch


Switch with blank covers removed. ** Note: The best way to remove the blanks is not from the front, where even a thin razor blade can scratch the plastic, as you can see by my first attempt, but rather from the rear by removing 4 torx screws allowing you to open the switch assembly, pop out the small circuit board, and squeeze the tabs that hold the blanks in place. Note** When opening the switch, do not spin the dimmer wheels. If you do the dimmer will not dim, or remain in a low lighted condition.

View attachment 116465 This was a picture of our OEM switch with the blanks removed


Since we don't have fog lights (or so I thought; I'll get to that in a moment), I decided to mirror the Hella LED DRL's that Dan, Whatheheck, shared with the board

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e63-bmw-m6-forum-bmw-m6-convertible-m6board-com/161731-daytime-running-lamps-led-drl.html

After considerable research, removal of the switch, disassembly of the switch, removal of the Light Control Module, (LCM) disassembly of the LCM, voltage testing under numerous conditions, I uncovered the following facts:
- The LCM part number is exactly the same for all M5-M6, U.S and European models. There have been updated part numbers over time, but the part number is the same for all. Some older part numbers have been discontinued, but it is consistent across the M5-M6 models worldwide.
- The headlight switch itself comes in a variety of flavors. Each with its own part number from the 3 Series-5 Series and 6 series, including the M's.
- The real difference in the switch is the quantity of usable buttons and the circuit board embedded within. I won't go into too much detail. Suffice to say I did document what part number and circuit board number is associated with each model
- So, in order to make use of the blank spots, this is what I did

Ordered switch part # 613116925257. This is a EU switch with HUD and Xenon=yes

View attachment 116464 This was a picture of the switch (number xxx257) that has the HUD on/off in the lower right position and a new fog light switch in the upper right position. Lower left is the instrument panel lighting dimmer, and upper left is blank


I wanted to use all the spots as I will describe later, so I ordered part # 61316925254 used from Ebay as well as 61316925252 from eBay UK, each has the upper left fog switch from various models. Here is my collection

View attachment 116466 This was a picture of switches that have a fog light switch in the upper left position. Picture of a light aiming down

My goal was threefold:
1. Ability to control the Hella DRL's, my modded AE's that I've wired as DRL's (previous post you can search for; and I've solved the temperature problem using a 1000ma puck LED driver, which is another topic altogether), the OEM DRL's, which in the pre 08's are H7 Halogens, and maintain the ability to maintain the HUD on and off at will. Each light having the ability to be controlled separately or all on at the same time (not that I would ever do that)
2. Match the light output (Kelvin color) as close as possible to all of the above bulbs/LED's
3. Enable rear fogs. Oh yes, we have rear fogs (thought they were rear reflectors before I started this mission)

So let me cut to the chase...

First I modded the new switch, part # 61316925257, by opening the back (torx screws), popping out the one upper left blank, replacing it with the front fog button, which has a button and receptor, from the eBay purchases. Button gets pushed in the front, receptor gets pushed in the back, and a plastic nubbed snap in assembly that is actually two small contacts that make the electrical contact when the momentary button is pushed. So three items from one of the eBay switches inserted in the xxxxx257 switch.

Now that the new switch has the upper left blank area replaced with what is the front fog switch (picture of a light aiming slightly down vs, the rear fog, which is a picture of a light aiming straight), you simply replace the existing switch with the modded one xxxxxxx257.

View attachment 116467

In order to remove the existing switch assembly, these are the instructions (Remember I have an 07 Cab, may be different on the Coupe, but I don't think so)

Remove the left air vent connector that feeds air through the door for the window defog

View attachment 116468

Use a plastic trim removal tool. There are three tabs in order to remove it

View attachment 116469

Next you must remove one Phillips head screw holding the switch assembly and the vent above it. Don't drop the screw. I unscrewed it and used a needle nose to remove it without letting it fall.

View attachment 116471

Next, use the plastic trim removal tool to remove the switch assy along with the connected left vent. There are three tabs

View attachment 116477
View attachment 116482

Now replace the OEM switch with the modded one described above. There are four very small torx screws that hold the switch to the plastic vent assy. When removing the single wiring harness, simply press the tab that locks the lever holding the harness, then lift the lever completely and the harness will detach

You can stop here if you like, because what you've just done is enable the rear fog lights. The HUD switch you will note, is now in the lower right location. The new switch is wired so the HUD will still turn on and off as it did with the OEM switch in the upper right position. In order to turn the rear fogs on, the headlights must be on (either in the auto mode position or the headlights on position, (not the parking light position). And here they are:

View attachment 116479
View attachment 116480

and you will even get an indicator in the instrument cluster

View attachment 116481

So what did I do with that upper left switch that was blank? I used it to control the Hella LED DRL's. Here's how. You will need one more item. That item is known as a Pulse Latching Relay Controller (a flip/flop for those of you more electronically inclined). I picked up a pre programmed one from bakerelectronix.com. eBay is the easiest.

<table style="width: 943px; height: 680px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td colspan="2">PLRC - Pulse Latching Relay Controller




</td></tr><tr><td class="ipics-cell"><form name="ssFrm" action="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=220589956468" target="ssFrmWin" method="post"><input name="ssr" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="iurls" value="0#http://i.ebayimg.com/04#!BkE364gB2k~$(KGrHqUH-EMEsnBYd+,JBLWF(HZEq!~~_14.JPG#!BkE364gB2k~$(KGrHqUH-EMEsnBYd+,JBLWF(HZEq!~~_12.JPG" type="hidden"><input name="dtid" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="vs" value="1" type="hidden"><input name="sh" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="title" value="PLRC - Pulse Latching Relay Controller" type="hidden"></form><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="vs_w-a"><center></center>
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</form></td></tr></tbody></table>If you look at the wiring diagram you will note a number of options to have the upper left switch enable this circuit. To keep this simple, the upper left (front fog light switch you just installed) actually controls a 5v signal from the LCM and passes it back to the LCM to enable the front fog light circuit, (if we had front fog lights). In order to trigger the Pulse Latching Relay Controller (PLRC), you have to feed the 5v to the purple wire (although it shows a 12v input, the device can be triggered with 5v and above. You do not use the red or gray wires at all. The black wire goes to car ground. I used a brown wire behind the drivers side footwell cover that is used for the OBDI socket. There are two ground wires available there.

The white wire from the PLRC is a ground wire that becomes active when the new front fog light switch is pressed. The momentary press enables the PLRC so the state changes to white wire=ground. Push again and white wire= nothing. As you can see by the schematic, the white wire is used with a standard 12v relay (I used the Hella relay that came with the LED DRL's). The schematic is self explanatory using a relay. The relay controls either the 12v input to the Hella DRL's or in my case I hooked the Hella DRL's to an ignition on 12v wire (there is one at the OBDI connector as well) and the gray Hella wire to the parking light wire, which was unused as I have the LCI turn signal upgrades. I used the relay contacts (#30 and # 87 in the schematic) to break the ground to the Hella's. The reason for the parking light connection is to allow the Hella DRL's to dim when the headlights are active.

So basically the new front fog light switch enables/disables the ground connection to the Hella's and you can choose (from bakerelectronix), the state you want the PLRC to remain in after its pressed and the car is shut off. I opted for 'last state it was in". that's the way the HUD on/off switch works, so I mirrored that.

There is one more thing required. The wiring harness that plugs into the light switch has two pins (AMP connectors) blank. They are position #'s 6 ans #7. Position #6 is used for non Xenon cars and position #7 is used for front fogs, (if we had them). Rather than disassemble the connector, I took a piece of 18 ga stranded wire and inserted it into the blank AMP connector location pin #7. It's at the end so it was easy to push it in and it easily mated with pin #7 from the switch. This is the wire that will pass the 5v from the switch to the PLRC.

View attachment 116483

As if that weren't enough, My quest to match the Kelvin color of all the forward position lights was done as follows:
- Since the Hella DRL's are fixed LED's, I used that color to my eye as the basis to match as closely as possible
- The headlights are D2S bulbs at 6000K. An almost perfect match
- The OEM H7 DRL's are 6500K Blue Halogens. The reason I chose 6500K is due to the reduced voltage present at the H7 bulb when used as a DRL. I tried various Kelvin Colors, this was the closest match to the low beams and the Hella DRL's
- The AE's are Seuol Z-LED-N's at 5500K. I replaced the Angel iBright LED's with these along with a 1000ma driver and 16 ga wiring to keep the heat down. There is a thread on this if you search.

There is a very good wiring diagram for our cars on
BMW Planet WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - 6 E63 E64

I think that's it. The rear fogs are the easiest of all written

Enjoy....
Do you have a part number for the switch/vent assembly? I do not have HUD so my switch/vent does not have room on the right of the central knob to accomodate the euro switch. Thanks for the help.
 

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Carbon Fiber Inlays in Dash

Hey I was wondering where/how you got the carbon fiber in the instrument gauge cluster?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mark, the part # I used was # 61316925257. That is with HUD and has four locations for switches. If your car only has two switch location, which is what i think you were describing (A picture would help); is only one of the two switches active now and the other spot blank? Or are they both in use and your trying to modify not just the switch itself, but the switch and surrounding plastic vent assy?

That info will help answer your part # question. A quick way to fins the part # may be via realoem.com, using your vin #. It may show the switch WITH other configurations. When I looked for the plastic vent assay surrounding my switch, I could not find that part as an independent part #, yet it is a separate detachable item

So a picture of yours, and exactly what you want to accomplish will help us help you
 

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Discussion Starter #20
MrBigLV, The CF in the instrument cluster is a combination of stick on CF for the left, right and lower cluster covering. The upper CF covering is a separate part from an E60. All available at one of our sponsors, JLevi Streetworks and/or Bimmian.com

Bimmian Snap-In Gauge Ring Inserts for BMW - JleviSW

The above rings are covered with Di-Noc CF (although I have since had them actually covered with CF overlay)

Below are the stick on CF coverings

Bimmian AutoCarbon Carbon Fiber Cluster Trim for BMW 6 Series and M6 - 2005+ E63
 
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