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That is a common issue, but easily fixed! We have found that it's possible to replace all of the parts while leaving the injector rail in place; however, it is much easier to switch to regular hose clamps when doing the job like this. I don't think you can properly clamp the OE-style Oetiker pinch clamp with everything else still assembled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I disassemble the stuff today and well... Brittle is the word here.
The small one was already broken as I said but the other one broke as soon as I pulled on it, and when I tried to remove what was left stuck on the engine, everything just shattered...
950295


I was contemplating the idea to cap off the system for now and drive without brake booster but that is probably a bad idea... :ROFLMAO:
So I have to wait for my hose kit now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Got my kit from HPSI Motorsport.
Those are silicone hose, supposedly more durable and specifically developed for vacuum applications (so they won't collapse).
The kit provides all diameters and you have to cut them to length, there is an instruction sheet that basically tells where to fit what, it is pretty straightforward and quickly done.

As a result, my engine is back to life again! (y)
I think my idle is even a bit better than before (a tad lower rpms and smoother) so I am glad with the whole operation.

Howeve I was expecting some improvement on my brake pedal feel but it is still hard as it has always been, so the problem is elsewhere. The T-connector on the brake booster seemed very flimsy to me, it all moving around not sure if it really seals anything, I will try to change that next (and incidently it is part of the angry *** kit, beating myself not having checked that before ordering the silicone kit).
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
So yesterday, engine temperature started running high when idling at a light, I put the heater on and when driving the temperature decreased a bit, I could eventually reach home with a needle dangerously close to the red zone...
After a quick overview, I realized that the fan does not activate, and that I did not hear it in a while actually (weather was pretty cold until now). I tried and realize I can even stop it by hand despite having the engine running super hot... So I will start by replacing the fan visco clutch and see if that improves... Otherwise I will go down the line and go for thermostat and water pump...
 

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You might want to check the electric fan switch first. Can bridge the terminals in the plug and see whether the fan comes on in either speed. The switch is on the side of the radiator.

The electric fans do seize, but it's all a simple check before you invest in the viscous fan.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
You mean the fan for the condenser?
When is it supposed to start by the way? Not sure I ever heard it at all...
I am not sure how to proceed with what you said though, do i need to plug the fan somewhere on a 12V? I don't have any source :-/
 

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That's right... Also comes on for A/C (so that's a useful check for if the fan turns), but there is also a temp switch on the rad that runs it at two speeds.

No need for 12v, it's all in the plug... Disconnect it, and simply bridge the terminals in the connector... You can't go wrong, it'll make sense once you are doing it.

If the fan comes on when you bridge the connector, with a bit of wire, you know that side of it works. Then next check is if the fan comes on when hot. If it doesn't then it is the switch, which is a cheap part you can change with a spanner. Obviously you need to top the coolant up if you do change it.

It may well be that the viscous needs changing, but this being a simple check it is worth checking the auxiliary fan. It does supplement the engine cooling.
 

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There's a cover behind the headlight (coolant expansion bottle side), the switch sits behind that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
There's a cover behind the headlight (coolant expansion bottle side), the switch sits behind that.
Thanks!
I found it, and it works.

I forced it to activate when the engine is hot but it does not prevent the temperature to climb... Which led me to realize that this side of the radiator is totally cold, so is the hose at the bottom of it...
So either the radiator is clogged, or the water pump is dead... Do you know how I could diagnose that?
 

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I would guess that you next need to look at the thermostat housing. Rationale:
A) you cooled the engine with the heater circuit - pump must have been working
B) pumps can fail pretty catastrophically, you would have noticed whilst checking the viscous fan (belt drive ok, no squeals etc)

The top hose is the hot one, the bottom hose is supposed to be cooler, but how much cooler depends on the flow rate to the rad. This depends on how much the stat has opened... Or (and this is my guess) whether the O-ring in the housing has gone hard and isn't sealing bypass flow very well.

Once the housing is open you can check the thermostat by putting it in hot water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
And the culprit was simply the thermostat.
I put a new one (OEM Behr) yesterday and everything is back to normal! The teflon ring in the thermostat housing was in good shape, so I did not change it, and everything was quite clean inside, I am happy.
Now the fan viscous clutch behaves normally, so does the electric fan. After bringing it up to température, I let the car heat up in my garage idling for 15min with the air conditioning and the needle did not move from the middle. So I believe I am out of the woods for now :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Just for the pleasure of the eyes, went to some car meet last week end, the car handled perfectly the stop and go traffic in 100°F++
Pictures are a bit burnt by the sun but she looks good doesn't she?
951754

951755


I am thinking of selling it to be honest, it's a nice machine to drive around but I miss track days and I need something a bit more purposeful for that...
 

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It does look very good!

I just finished my third HPDE weekend with my 3.8. I plan to do more. Especially with all of the maintenance we are both doing, the cars hold up! Better than modern metal, honestly...
 
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