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Discussion Starter #1
If I have the belts, crank pulley, and harmonic damper off, is it possible to get the oil separator return pipe up out of the oil pan in order to change the o-ring on it, without resorting to removing the thermostat housing or messing with the lower rubber hoses? My hoses seem OK and I don't want scope creep to necessitate cracking open the coolant system on this one if possible; just want to go after the front main seal and perhaps this o-ring to hopefully stem my oil leak. I'm referring to the pipe #5 and o-ring #7. Thanks to anyone that knows whether this is or is not possible before I dive in!
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Only if you have small Hands and the tools to get at bolt 8. BTW it is hard to do the seal without removing the cover and putting it on a bench. You can do it but it is hard in the car, just depends on your experience and skills.
 

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Thanks Sailor, I got this great little seal puller that I think should lower the difficulty to just a moderate level. Once I get everything off I'll probably make a slow and careful attempt to see if I can work that pipe out of there, but if it seems like it won't work I'm prepared to give up quickly and just finish the seal. 2.5" diameter PVC pipe is what I need to press in the new seal, correct?
 

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A standard hook-style seal puller gets the front crank seal out, reaching up from below the car, in about 5 seconds. Driving it in requires anything that circumference.

I wonder the same thing about the breather pipe O-ring.
 

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Thanks Sailor, I got this great little seal puller that I think should lower the difficulty to just a moderate level. Once I get everything off I'll probably make a slow and careful attempt to see if I can work that pipe out of there, but if it seems like it won't work I'm prepared to give up quickly and just finish the seal. 2.5" diameter PVC pipe is what I need to press in the new seal, correct?

Which seal are you referring to? Talking about the t-stat seal in case you need to remove it?


I'm also leaking from that O-ring but it's not too bad yet. But eventually if I have to replace the water pump & t-stat, then I'll tackle it then, along with the lower oil separator hoses.
 

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Holy crap, so far, NOT a very fun job, but making good progress, think I have the old seal out and the new one in! Question though, what seals the oil out of the bolt passages? Whenever I'd pull the bolts out of the holes in the nose of the crank, they'd drag a little stream of oil out with them. I'm assuming this is normal, but I can't figure out what if anything keeps the oil from leaking out past the bolts in normal operation.
 

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Holy crap, so far, NOT a very fun job, but making good progress, think I have the old seal out and the new one in! Question though, what seals the oil out of the bolt passages? Whenever I'd pull the bolts out of the holes in the nose of the crank, they'd drag a little stream of oil out with them. I'm assuming this is normal, but I can't figure out what if anything keeps the oil from leaking out past the bolts in normal operation.
There is no oil to seal out. Maybe that wept into the bolt holes from the leaky crank seal over time(?) Don't forget to replace those 4 bolts and torque them with an angle gauge.
 

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There is no oil to seal out. Maybe that wept into the bolt holes from the leaky crank seal over time(?) Don't forget to replace those 4 bolts and torque them with an angle gauge.
My guess is that with all 4 bolts out, any oil sitting on the crankshaft can run into the seam between the bit of shaft on the end of the crankshaft with the timing and oil pump chainrings on it and the actual crankshaft itself where the threads are, apparently those are actually 2 different pieces. Anyway, not worrying about it. New bolts arrive today and although I don't have an angle gauge, it generally works quite well for me to mark the bolt head and surrounding part so that I can check how much angle I've actually achieved on the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whew, all done, but for the record no I couldn't figure out how to get the return pipe out, so that o-ring will need to wait until the thermostat housing comes off some time in the future! On the plus side, it does seem that the real leaks was from the main seal, and so far (about 100 miles), still dry down there!
 
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