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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, hoping someone can help.

I have an unusual issue with my oil temperaures which are showing about 55 degrees when fully warmed up, at idle. I'm monitoring them using the secret menu and the water (KTEMP) is showing 88 degrees - I'd expect the oil to be a few degrees less.
I've just replaced the oil sensor and am wondering whether the new sensor is the issue, it's OEM Hella, part number 6PR 00.868-031 (noted as compatible with part number 12617508003). Would an incompatible part display these symptoms? The OELTEMP does increase on the secret menu but only to 60 degrees C when pushing the car/engine.
Here's a link to the sensor I bought...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=262511417263&view=all&tid=1959352855016
 

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Hi all, hoping someone can help.

I have an unusual issue with my oil temperaures which are showing about 55 degrees when fully warmed up, at idle. I'm monitoring them using the secret menu and the water (KTEMP) is showing 88 degrees - I'd expect the oil to be a few degrees less.
I've just replaced the oil sensor and am wondering whether the new sensor is the issue, it's OEM Hella, part number 6PR 00.868-031 (noted as compatible with part number 12617508003). Would an incompatible part display these symptoms? The OELTEMP does increase on the secret menu but only to 60 degrees C when pushing the car/engine.
Here's a link to the sensor I bought...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=262511417263&view=all&tid=1959352855016
My water temps runs 6-8 degrees HIGHER than my water temps. Assuming previously no issues. Since you just changed the sensor, obvious place to start. The heat exchanger would keep the temps closer together than 33 degrees C. (55 vs. 88). Water temp looks about correct depending on ambient and driving conditions (79C t-stat).

I assume your oil temp gauge is also all of the sudden reading very low.

The link to the sensor doesn't work. But double check part numbers with real.oem as 1 pretty reliable source for part numbers.

Regards,
Jerry
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jerry. As usual I did check the part no.s carefully - I normally buy OEM not Stealer parts where appropriate and haven't had problems before. Perhaps this time it just hasn't worked out, bit of a shame to have to drop the oil again and buy a new sensor but we live and learn. The old sensor displayed normal temps most of the time and threw the usual 300 degree C / check oil level every few days, so I'm pretty happy that all is well with the car.
 

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It could be your plug. The measurement is resistance. Short story had an issue with check oil and a pinned gauge sometimes. Bought a new sensor etc. Then I unplugged the sensor something was weird sure enough there was crud in there. Cleaned it all out used contact cleaner too. Issue not completely gone because it appears every once and a while on the coldest days. Think one of the contacts might have been bent from the crud. Will look again next oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, it does seem strange as the Hella part no. checks out. The supplier is sending a replacement in case there's a fault with the sensor. We'll see how that goes, fingers crossed!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
By way of an update, the new sensor arrived and has been fitted but didn't resolve the issue. I have since replaced the water temperature sensor on the 'stat as the two values are linked - still no joy. The oil temp shows max of about 62 degrees on the secret menu, but if I shut off the engine and restart the oil gauge needle on the cluster does move up to the expected temp position (90ish degrees) before falling back to the wrong position.
Haven't cleaned or replaced the plug yet as Sailor24 suggested but if the plug we're faulty I doubt it would display these symptoms.
I have had the oil temps interrogated by diagnostics and of course oil is getting up to temperature just fine. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Any ideas guys? An important thing I didn't mention - the 'warm up' tacho lights don't fully go out. 4 or 5 stay on even when the car is up to temp but when I stop the engine and restart they all go out leaving the usual single orange tacho light. Perhaps I should fork out for a BMW oil level sensor from the dealer but given that the Hella ones I used have the correct part number it shouldn't be necessary....and I'm hoping my symptoms might have an obvious answer!
 

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What does the OBC secret menu say your oil temp is? If it looks normal then it could simply be your cluster or a bus problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What does the OBC secret menu say your oil temp is? If it looks normal then it could simply be your cluster or a bus problem.
The secret menu is showing 62-63 degrees max, my mechanic said his diagnostics showed the up to the correct temp (90+ degrees).
 

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Any ideas guys? An important thing I didn't mention - the 'warm up' tacho lights don't fully go out. 4 or 5 stay on even when the car is up to temp but when I stop the engine and restart they all go out leaving the usual single orange tacho light. Perhaps I should fork out for a BMW oil level sensor from the dealer but given that the Hella ones I used have the correct part number it shouldn't be necessary....and I'm hoping my symptoms might have an obvious answer!
I think you said the reason you changed the sensor in the first place was because of low oil temp reading. Unless you can verify that the old part was NOT a BMW supplied part, I don't think swapping again is the answer. If the BMW part is the same brand with the same part number, then you are basically paying for the packaging. I don't remember reading anywhere that BMW had a certain "spec' for the OE part.

The tach lights not working right seems to be a clue. Unfortunately I don't know what it means. But since you know the oil is the correct temp by outside diagnosis, it points to something electrical and not mechanical. Annoying, but not dangerous.

Maybe someone who knows how to read the electrical schematics can see where oil temp and tach lights tie in. We do know that the lights are connected to the oil temp and not water temp. Is a wire/input signal being "pinched"? Something on the IBUS?

Does your Peake show any codes?

Just as an off the wall thought, how is your outside temp indicator (located in the lower right front bumper area)? Given water temps are good, I doubt that has anything to do with it, but.....

Regards,
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Jerry, response to your questions below....

I think you said the reason you changed the sensor in the first place was because of low oil temp reading.
The gauge was maxing out and the cluster gave me the 'check engine oil' message (typical oil level sensor failure symptom).

Does your Peake show any codes?
Nothing out of the ordinary - secondary air flow and temperature implausibility. Actually I need to re-scan codes because I expect this to go away now I have a new stat coolant sensor fitted.

Just as an off the wall thought, how is your outside temp indicator...
Regards,
Jerry
I'll check my ambient temps, I think they are ok.
 

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Maybe someone who knows how to read the electrical schematics can see where oil temp and tach lights tie in. We do know that the lights are connected to the oil temp and not water temp. Is a wire/input signal being "pinched"? Something on the IBUS?



Regards,
Jerry
Not quite as easy as just looking at the diagrams. Weak analogy but similar. Normal wiring is like a bunch of tunnels, if it entered here it can only exit there. The bus is more like an 8 lane highway with many entrances and exits. Every signal knows what exit number it gets off at which will lead it to it's destination, and the destination has a code to check if the signal is the right one, and it is two way traffic with the sender and reciever talking to each other. It is computer communication, rather than the first telephone where the operator would plug you in.
Usually it is hit and miss or the better way use a computer to figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I checked my codes still have the 1b 69 temp implausibility code. As the coolant temp sensor and oil level sensor are both new the next step is the lower radiator hose sensor. I have one ready to put in so I'll do it this weekend, I don't think the ambient temp sensor affects this code, am I right? In any case the temps shown on on-board computer are correct.....
 

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I checked my codes still have the 1b 69 temp implausibility code. As the coolant temp sensor and oil level sensor are both new the next step is the lower radiator hose sensor. I have one ready to put in so I'll do it this weekend, I don't think the ambient temp sensor affects this code, am I right? In any case the temps shown on on-board computer are correct.....
My "69" code always referenced a bad tstat. I believe it just warms up too slowly. When I got the code, and cleared it, it would not come back unless the car sat overnight. So there has to be a minimum temp to start the cycle over.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I checked my codes still have the 1b 69 temp implausibility code. As the coolant temp sensor and oil level sensor are both new the next step is the lower radiator hose sensor. I have one ready to put in so I'll do it this weekend, I don't think the ambient temp sensor affects this code, am I right? In any case the temps shown on on-board computer are correct.....
My "69" code always referenced a bad tstat. I believe it just warms up too slowly. When I got the code, and cleared it, it would not come back unless the car sat overnight. So there has to be a minimum temp to start the cycle over.

Regards,
Jerry
There might be something in that. I have now replaced the lower coolant hose sensor and afterwards I took the car for a spin. I cleared the codes when the car was hot and '69' didn't come back in the next couple of miles before checking at home. It has since though, I'll read the codes at various engine temps and see what occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Maybe someone who knows how to read the electrical schematics can see where oil temp and tach lights tie in. We do know that the lights are connected to the oil temp and not water temp. Is a wire/input signal being "pinched"? Something on the IBUS?



Regards,
Jerry
Not quite as easy as just looking at the diagrams. Weak analogy but similar. Normal wiring is like a bunch of tunnels, if it entered here it can only exit there. The bus is more like an 8 lane highway with many entrances and exits. Every signal knows what exit number it gets off at which will lead it to it's destination, and the destination has a code to check if the signal is the right one, and it is two way traffic with the sender and reciever talking to each other. It is computer communication, rather than the first telephone where the operator would plug you in.
Usually it is hit and miss or the better way use a computer to figure it out.
I checked my codes still have the 1b 69 temp implausibility code. As the coolant temp sensor and oil level sensor are both new the next step is the lower radiator hose sensor. I have one ready to put in so I'll do it this weekend, I don't think the ambient temp sensor affects this code, am I right? In any case the temps shown on on-board computer are correct.....
My "69" code always referenced a bad tstat. I believe it just warms up too slowly. When I got the code, and cleared it, it would not come back unless the car sat overnight. So there has to be a minimum temp to start the cycle over.

Regards,
Jerry
Will a decent BMW independent garage be able to interrogate the IBUS effectively to troubleshoot my issue? Any pointers for them when I take it in Jerry?
 

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On the E60's, the oil temp comes from the oil level sensor (the thing in the bottom of the oil pan), not from an independent sensor. Any chance that's where the gauge cluster gets it on the E39's too? When I did my bearings on my E60, I didn't get this plug in all the way and had really odd oil temp readings.
 

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On the E60's, the oil temp comes from the oil level sensor (the thing in the bottom of the oil pan), not from an independent sensor. Any chance that's where the gauge cluster gets it on the E39's too? When I did my bearings on my E60, I didn't get this plug in all the way and had really odd oil temp readings.
I believe the E39 is set up the same way.
@Vee

Not sure about interrogating the IBUS. It seems like it is getting a false reading from somewhere.

If I recall, you replaced the oil pan level sensor because of low oil temps, so ASSUMING it was done correctly, that should not be the issue. Perhaps a wiring issue from the oil pan level sensor? Anything getting crimped or shorted?

If there is a good independent, tell him the problem, what repairs you have done, and then let him determine what the cause is. That is why you are going there in the first place!

Regards,
Jerry
 

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I don't understand why your mechanic would plug in diagnostics and see normal oil temperatures around 90 degrees, when the car is telling you it's 60 degrees. The car must be applying some sort of correction factor based on other information, whereas the diagnostic was reading just purely the temperature from the sensor. This is very odd indeed, hope you get it figured out!
 
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