BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I am having an issue when shifting between gears. There is a loud clicking noise coming from underneath the car when I shift between gears. Easily reproduceable:

Don't start Car
Drop the clutch
Shift between gears
Loud noise from underneath

The same holds true when driving.

Any ideas?

Shop says they need to drop the transmission to troubleshoot further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
Does it sound like linkage or internal to the box, or difficult to tell?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
The guys who've done the modified linkages will be able to give you all you need to know I'm sure, with RealOEM diags.

Any particular shifts? 3rd to 4th, or 1st to 3rd? As in, is it movement of the gear lever front to rear of the car or side to side. Just trying to prempt others questions, might save you some time.

Standard shift mech or aftermarket shifter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
Do you have stock shifter?

If the problem is the shift linkage, more than likely it can all be resolved from under the car without pulling the transmission.

I would not let anyone play with it if they do not know something about BMW's and 5 series manual transmissions.

From inside the car you can pull most of the parts and see part of what is happening and hear better to isolate the problem.

It can be a bit tricky, but if you take your time, not hard at all.

1. Pull shifter boot loose around the console, do not pull near the front left where the cut out is, pull fron the right side corner gently.
2. Unplug the connector for the lighted shifter knob.
3. Remove the shifter knob. This can be tricky without hitting yourself in the face or even possibly hitting the rear view mirror or windshield. The knob pull straight up, BUT, if the shifter cup is damaged, you may have issues. The shifter should not easily pull up and down in the shifter cup. Anyway, make sure your face is clear, you need to straight up sharply to remove the shift knob.
4. Once the shifter knob and boot is removed, remove the foam sound deadener piece.
5. Now you remove the rubber lower shifter boot. If the boot is a newer style, ther may be a green plastic ring that you can use to pull an edge up, usually the front edge. Be careful removing the boot and you may need to spray silicon to ease the boot over the shifter handle. If the boot is in bad shape, new boots are about $15 as I recall and are well worth replacing if there is any damage on the boot.

Once you have the knob, boot, sound deadener and the lower rubber boot out you can see the top of the shifter ball and you can also see the top of the shifter support. The shifter support should have some movement, there are 3 rubber bushings that support the shifter carrier and they do go bad contray to what anyone says. You should also see if there is anything broken or loose around the shifter ball. I have not see an OEM shifter, but I think there are plastic parts that can break?

You should be able to hear very well now and possibly see if something is not right. You can also take a small mirror and probably inspect the rear bushing. It snaps in the underbody of the car, I doubt it could have popped out, but anything is possible. The rear bushing should have a small amount of up and down play. If the shifter carrier moves side to side (rotates) much, then the front shifter carrier bushings are most likely dried out, hard and have shrunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
My understanding is the Dinan short shifter is a different OEM BMW shifter that is rubber dipped to reduce vibration.

I think this shifter uses all the "standard" shifter mounting parts?

However, it amazes me how easily some people can screw up a relatively simple installation. My car had a UCC EVO3 short shifter installed at a dealer and let me tell you, what a mess it was. Almost fell out of the car.

Last week I finally got it 100% sorted out with all new bushings and the UUC DSSR, this along with the ZHP knob and a fresh change of trans fluid and now I have a decent shifting car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
After further investigation I have been told more then likely I have an issue with synchros. They will have to drop the transmission to check it out further. Since they will be dropping the transmission and more then likely the extended warranty is going to take care of the repairs what are somethings I should get done while the transmission is out? I am thinking New Clutch and flywheel for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
After further investigation I have been told more then likely I have an issue with synchros. They will have to
drop the transmission to check it out further. Since they will be dropping the transmission and more then
likely the extended warranty is going to take care of the repairs what are somethings I should get done
while the transmission is out? I am thinking New Clutch and flywheel for sure.
Have them replace the rear main oil seal. Easily done and is relatively inexpensive, since the
flywheel is going to be replaced.

Regards,
Alan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
^+1 on the rear main oil seal. Fairly easy to do, flywheel comes off and then some additional bolts and the seal carrier comes off the rear of the engine.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top