Thanks, I'll check them out. I was wondering about clearance issues with a tool of this style. I see it also measures torque. that's nice to have to verify against your torque wrench.I use a FACOM E.506-200S, in the US this made by branded as Proto, not sure what the model number is. Mine goes up to 200 nm since it has a 1/2" drive. There are different drive sizes but many of the chassis faster's are pretty high torque so 3/8" won't cut it. FACOM/Proto is equivalent grade to Snap-On with all the NIST/ISO traceability. It's an attachment that you put on your breaker bar or ratchet, so very versatile, and a very nice price point.
the only drawback is that it sometimes will not fit in the tight spaces that a dedicated torque wrench would, but that only happens like 5% of the time that I've had to use TTY on the M5. Basically the front lower ball joint nut with the wheel on.
I was looking at those Gearwrench, have had good experience with their other tools. Seem to be quality stuff. Rod bearings is what scares me the most for accuracy.I bought a 3/8 drive Gearwrench digital wrench on amazon to diy my rod bearings, worked well enough for me. Maxes at 135 nm I believe, and measures angle too if you get the flex head one like I did. Otherwise, they sell torque angle gauges at autozone for like $25 but you need something to prop the arm up against because they aren’t electronic.
was just looking at their torque wrenches, man, they are as pricey as snap-on!I have multiple torque wrenches, probably too many, but only this one does torque and angle, I specifically bought this one for that. I don't think you can find something as accurate for the price as one of these since you're not paying for the wrench part of things, just the piezo electric part.
For other stuff I have the more conventional clicker types as well as a Torque-O meter style from Strap-On. Some stuff requires the claw foot style ends which generally are never TTY (like brake line fittings)
The flex head was actually helpful when tightening the bolts on cylinder 1, I didn’t remove either of the pumps so the main oil pump was a bit of a clearance problem and the flex head helped with that. Like gmt said, I would go for the arp bolts. Thats what I did, they are just one and done, torque to 50 ft lbs and that’s it. No angle, no multiple undo and redo’s, nada. Less room for error imo, but decently more expensive than oem bolts. Gearwrench makes a similar none flex head digital wrench that doesn’t do angle which you could use if you’re using arp rod bolts, but I got the angle one because I wanted the flex head and will probably need the angle function sooner or later. It also keeps the angle when you ratchet if you can’t get it in one sweep, and records the final values. If you’re using torque, it will show the final value in whatever unit you selected after it alerts you you’ve reached it and if you’re in angle, it will show the final angle you reached and whatever torque that is in your previously selected unit. In addition the screen is a live display so you know how close you are to your desired angle/torque, or you can just let the vibrating handle and the flashing lights alert you when you’re at set value. Common features on most digital angle wrenches I think, but I found it very useful. A good digital angle wrench/adapter is well worth the money imo.I was looking at those Gearwrench, have had good experience with their other tools. Seem to be quality stuff. Rod bearings is what scares me the most for accuracy.
I noticed all they have is flex head. does that give you any trouble?
Which suspension torques? Anything I had to undo I was able to re-torque to the spec indicated by newTIS no problem with 3/8 drive. Highest I found was 100 nm + 90 deg, but I'd love to find out if I was wrong before I go drive any more lolJust know that 3/8” drive won’t cut it for the torque required on the suspension, it makes sense to do the suspension links yourself also, since you have to touch them when doing rod bearing job.
lol, thats what I tell my wife! Then she says why do you need more cars? I say, cause I got the tools, now all I need is the parts!The money you save by DIY easily covers the cost of these tools (maybe not a Tech Angel tho). You then also have the tool still, so you really have to think about if you’ll ever need something like this again.
I’m one of those tool dorks, so i always talk myself in to buying a quality tool. With something like a Tech Angle you could sell it back and recover 90%of your cost, there a very liquid market for Strap-On. Just know that 3/8” drive won’t cut it for the torque required on the suspension, it makes sense to do the suspension links yourself also, since you have to touch them when doing rod bearing job.
Depends on what you are doing. There are a few that get up there.Which suspension torques? Anything I had to undo I was able to re-torque to the spec indicated by newTIS no problem with 3/8 drive. Highest I found was 100 nm + 90 deg, but I'd love to find out if I was wrong before I go drive any more lol
Yeah, the high ones seem to be from arms to knuckle. I left everything except the steering attached to the knuckle and swung it out of the way. Only disconnected the arms from the subframeDepends on what you are doing. There are a few that get up there.