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Figured I should make a thread here too on M5board since there's already an on-going thread made over at BF.c forum. Just want share my recent work/upgrades that I've been doing for a while to my 2001 M5 with my former 2003 530i headlights retrofitted. The original 2001 headlights were in pretty bad shape compared to the 2003 ones, but I then tinkered for a while about upgrading to something with better light output.

Here's the mod list -
  • G4 Bi-Xenon Projectors (thanks to Blackknight530i group buy)
  • Morimoto low beam D2S 5500K bulbs (TheRetroFitSource.com)
  • New high quality plastic and metal made adjusters (eBay)
  • New LED Angel Eyes ring kit (eBay)
  • New DJ Auto lens (ECS Tuning)
  • Morimoto High Beam H7 5500K bulbs (sadly not going to use these for now)
  • Currently running on LCM III B but I'm now on the lookout for an LCM IV module
I started work on the passenger side headlight first and finish it first before I tackle the driver side which will happen soon. The reason being that I drive my car everyday, so I can't be driving it with no headlights at all, but at least have one working headlight.

After pulling the headlight assembly out of the car and bringing it inside the house, I removed every bits and pieces that are held on by little screws, all of the bulbs got removed, the rubber boots and the four ventilating rubber plugs too. Since this is the non-bakeable headlight, there's no way of getting the lens off not without cutting it with a dremel tool that you can get for around $30 or so off of eBay. If you are about to embark on a similar upgrade as this I would highly advise you to use a steel cutting disc to cut the lens off. Also, make sure to cut about 1/2" away from the edge of the lens around the headlight. This way you won't cut too deep or too close to the main housing and not be able to grab and pull the remaining part of the lens with a plier that is still glued in. You have to thoroughly cut the epoxy bonding deep with a knife on both sides of the lens and only then can you pull it out. This was not an easy task and it took quite an effort and time to do this. Patience is the key. You also want to thoroughly clean the recess groove as much as possible before laying down a strip of butyl rubber tape when buttoning up with all the new upgrades in the end.















If you have broken adjusters now's the time to get the AE ring housing (which comes off pretty easily by hand) and the stock Xenon projector housing off by simply turning the adjuster screws anti-clockwise. This will unscrew and push the brittle plastic adjusters from inside to outside and become separated from the main frame of the headlight.









The Xenon projector is held on by four threaded studs on the back side. Use an 8mm 1/4" drive deep socket and a ratchet to remove the projector. Now you have two options after this point. Either swap in the new G4 Bi-Xenon projector back on, or you could remove the studs using an 8mm wrench and cut down the stand offs on the frame to reduce the gap between the new G4 projector to the frame. There are few members who have noted that while the stock OEM projector and its bowl shaped lens sits flushed against the housing, the G4 on the other hand sits far away back. Thus, creating a small gap after installing everything back together. There's no harm in putting it back together as it will work fine, but me being a bit particular about everything, I went ahead with few extra careful steps to reduce that gap down to almost flushed in like the stock projector. The key is to grind down the four stand offs evenly across each other, little by little, and it has to be dead level straight to ensure the projector's aim isn't positioned at an angle once screwed back on. I also had to cut the coarse part of the threads by about half of its original length; fearing that it might bottom out in the threaded hole and may potentially crack the frame with too much force while tightening it down.



Comparison shot of the stock Xenon to the G4 Xenon.













Quick fitting of the new G4 with unmodified stand offs and you can tell from this picture the lens doesn't protrude much more than that.



Some grinding was done to the projector itself to ensure flat surfaces after tightened down on the mounting studs.











After some grinding here and there, I managed this in the end. It now sits nearly flushed in with the frame.









If you notice there's a built-in solenoid in the new projector. There's a shutter that opens and closes as the solenoid gets energized. It acts as a high beam when you flash your lights. The two wires are tapped to your high beam wires. You can do this by using a 9005/9006 pigtail splitter wire (thanks to blackknight530i's advise) you can get off of Amazon. It's pretty cheap and usually ships within two days. One plug connects to your stock high beam bulb and the other plug is tapped to the shutter wires, and finally the other end of the wire connects to your stock harness.

After finishing the modifications to the projector and to the frame, I turned over to start working on installing the new LED Angel Eye rings to the AE frame. I had to slightly clearance the frame in order to fit the new AE rings in since it was binding a little bit and wouldn't seat in properly. After that I used clear silicone glue (thanks to an advise from another member) to attach/glue in the rings to the frame.









A quick test fitting and an overall view.





Here is the splitter wire I was talking about.



Now comes some electrical modification. My AE kit came with a separate wiring kit and a relay to power up these angel eyes. Each ring has a simple +ve and a -ve wire. However, each ring also has a voltage regulator and a resistor on the +ve side of the wires. After a couple of questions back and forth with Blackknight530i it was advised to keep those voltage regulators separate from each other but tap the +ve wires together and the -ve wires together, so that I can tap it and power the rings up from the main AE harness connector.





To keep all of the wiring clean and tidy, I had to cut and shorten the AE ring wires so as not to get all tangled up inside the headlight. Also, I had an LED Angel Eye bulb installed quite some time ago and was trying to come up with ways to route all the wires through the openings cleanly. I decided to open up the LED bulb and use its casing as a way to extract the shutter wires from the projector and the modified LED AE wires through one access hole of the headlight assembly. As you can see I had to enlarge the two holes in the casing by using a 4.5mm drill bit enough for the wires to fit through, and it worked like a charm. I then had the LED bulb connector cut, stripped, and then spliced in with the modified AE wires. This way it easily connects (and easily disconnect) to the main harness, and all the while the shutter wires are then tapped to the high beam wires using a posi lock twist style connectors. This keeps everything all tidy and clean while troubleshooting if a problem may arise.















A quick test results in everything working right.





Last modifications that I had to do was to cut the rubber boot for the low beam since the new projector is slightly bigger than the stock one. I had to cut about 1/2" or more ID of the boot from inside because there was no way I could plug in the igniter wire to the new Miromoto D2S bulb; not without trying to press hard on it, catch the bulb, and then lock twist it in place. Because the ID of the boot is the same OD of the igniter wire, there were no concerns about sealing the headlight and getting moisture inside. It fits well and seals really good. Next I tore four small pieces of scotch brite to use as headlight filters and placed them inside the four ventilating ports and the rubber plugs were put back on. And, finally, I used strips of butyl rubber tape that I got from Autozone and laid it down in the recess grooves where the new lens seats in. The lens was wiped with alcohol pads both from inside and outside before finally attaching it to the headlight.





And now some teaser shots and after some aim adjustments.















So now the passenger side is done. Soon I'm going to start working on the driver side headlight and will update this thread when the time comes.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to add two videos.

+ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9A1lFAbsHU" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9A1lFAbsHU"> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9A1lFAbsHU" /> ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn1yrB8KGXc" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn1yrB8KGXc"> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn1yrB8KGXc" /> ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
 

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Looks good, rotation seems a bit off on the projector though. Seems like it's dipping down on the left side. It's best to have perfect rotation so that you don't blind anything on the right side of you (pedestrians).
 

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I did rotate/turn the aim towards right and there's few more turns that I can do. Also, the ground wasn't level straight and if you look closer to the brick wall you can tell a slight downward slope towards the left. Overall, I'm actually happy with the results and these lights look awesome.
 

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This is amazing. Thank you for putting it together. The only think I did differently is cut the lens just outside of the black inside housing so as not to leave cut marks all over it. Then, I used a crappy metal knife from the kitchen and slid it between the lens and the housing in the areas I needed to cut so the dremel would hit the knife before messing up the housing. Then I cut the glue in the lip on both sides of the lens and eventually loosened it enough to pull it out by hand (with force).
 
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