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Discussion Starter #82
pin 1 on the pre-lci harness should have been empty.... you would be taking pin 1 from the halo harness crimping the proper terminal then inserting it into pin 1 on the main headlight harness

i think your telling me you

1 you did the above modification
2 you measure resistance between your newly insert pin 1 and pin 4 (which is pre-existing on the main headlight harness) with a result of 0 ohms ie shorted / tied together?? is that correct??

IF>>>> pin 4 is a brown wire (i don't remember) zgermans use brown as earth ground resulting in you halo being shorted to ground (not good)
ACTION>>> find and fix short
 

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Thanks... On the pair of headlights themselves with bother connected pin 1 and 4 appear shorted on both - if there is a ground to pin 4 would you recommend disconnecting it?
 

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how can I change the pins on the harness it is almost impossible to take the pins out of it, I was swapping pin 8 and while I was trying to take it off, I cut the cable and I dont know what to do now?!
Thanks.
 

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so I tried to find this pin removal tool thing and I can't find an exact one for the headlight, all I can find is the one for the radio harness and it doesn't look like it will fit in the harness, and it's also around $60 so I think its way overpriced.
any ideas what to do?
Thanks, Seif.
 

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Hi guys bit of an update and more help reqd...

Took the bumper off today as I had ordered a pair of those 10 w led h8 bulbs dxdenis02 mentions. I took the lights out again to triple check the wiring .... Which was sound, I even have the ahl wire in pin 11 despite not have ahl.

So after checking for shorts there appears to be none not sure how I found that before. So I put it all back together and before powering on I tested the ground of the ae socket was going to ground, then I checked that the live was not going to ground. It wasn't it obviously had no power as it was off.
I then fired it up and sadly nothing works still :( I have now eliminated the xenon element. What's strange is after turning on the live to the aes goes to ground? Wtf,?

Any ideas as I'm really stuck now ... Remember going from prelci ahl to lci non ahl...

Thanks in advance...

Dan


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Just an update on my problems then:

AEs not working at all and after car is switched on the live on the bulb turns to a ground? All as per dxdenis instructions.

The lci turns work fine for about 20 flashes then stop working connections are good and as per mimis diagram.

If I put the old indicator bulbs back in the front bulb functions as expected but the rear is permanently on until I start the car the it comes on when barking (on the front when driving)

Also side note my rear red tails flash with the orange LEDs when turning?

Have followed the two diagrams to the point. The only different is I am going from per lci with adaptive to lci without adaptive...

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Dan


::EDIT:: New problem after putting it all back together after it rained they had both steamed up - this never happened before any ideas?

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On this again I am going to be bold and say the three phases:

Lm1 to lm2
Pre lci to lci front turns
Pre lci to lci rear turns
Pre lci to lci headlights

Has only been been undertaken by me. As such I could really do with comparing the .man file from my lm2 unit to someone who has a factory lci e63 or e64 to double check the coding is correct. Would anyone be able to provide for me?

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Pyro, without digging back to every change you made, I recall that at one point you lost power to your AE wires under all conditions. I believe at you drew too much current by having a high wattage bulb under a less than 12v conditions. If that is true, its very possible, and more likely than not, that an internal fuse (not user replaceable), may have blown within the LM2 module itself, in order to protect the balance of the circuitry. Internal to multifunctional circuits, particularly a circuit as large and diverse as the Light Module, manufacturers design very thin wires at small wire gauges that act as internal fuses so only a portion of the circuit drawing more than normal current will purposely open, saving the remaining circuitry from heat and damage.

Its possible this is what happened to your LM2. You can use BMW Planets wiring of that module to attempt to find the exact location of that fuse, tracing the AE wire output backwards to the internal circuitry attempting to locate this on board fuse (wire). It would take computer soldering to fix it, so if this is your culprit, its unlikely you will be able to repair it.

Many members have performed the three same light upgrades successfully, so it can be done. I think your many changes/wiring/coding has caused multiple issues.

For whatever help it may be, attached is a stock LM2 module (Cabrio) so you can compare your coding vs stock using NCSDummy

Good luck
 

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Thanks Al,

I still have my lm1 module could I use that to test? Or will it not work due to the new headlights needing the flash to pass option? The only thing that seems weird is the fact that the polarity changes on the wire when the car is switched on as mentioned - would this still be a possible culprit?

Dan
 

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If you mean the polarity of the AE wires, the polarity cannot change. The reading you may be getting is ground through the AE bulb you now have in it. If you remove the bulb you will probably not get 0 ohms from one of the wires and 0 from the other. Flash to pass has nothing to do with your issue. Thats one line of coding that can be changed.

I think that LM2 is blown.
 

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Sorry I mean would I be able to put my lm1 back in to test even though I use flash to pass? Also would dis tell me it's blown?
 

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Yes, the LM1 will work regardless of the flash to pass option set

No, there's no program that will indicate a failed module in one portion of the circuit unfortunately.
 

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Al, you're a genius, now I'm pissed that I took so long to realise its out of warranty oh well will stick with this for now... Everything working except my turn signals go double speed for two clicks then settle down I get a bulb fault despite coding out... It is ok though after the first two flashes. Also I am now getting adaptive lights fault. I have set the three smc options to nicht aktiv still same problem any ideas?

Finally separate issue but being the genius you are, one of my lights flash to pass is only working intermittently any idea where to start fixing?

Cheers


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Thanks Al,

The turn signals maybe wiring will double check as it doesnt always do it - i only stuck the wires in tape for testing so will secure at the weekend, the smc however not sure? no fault with the lm2. With regard to the problem of flash to pass ive seen some e46/90 threads thats say the wire to the solenoid can come loose - have you heard of this ? is it easy to get to? thanks
 

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Ref: Your file

You have every Cold/Warm bulb check nicht_aktiv. I assume you did that on purpose? However, EXCEPT the one bulb that is causing your error issues. The front turns. here is a paste of your current lines of code. Make these nicht_aktiv and a cold/warm/error display bulb check will cease.

KALTUEBERW_BLK_V_L_2
aktiv
KALTUEBERW_BLK_V_R_2
aktiv
WARMUEBERW_BLK_V_L_2
aktiv
WARMUEBERW_BLK_V_R_2
aktiv
FEHLERMELD_CC_BLK_V_L_2
aktiv
FEHLERMELD_CC_BLK_V_R_2
aktiv

Rear turns are coded nicht_aktiv and you shouldn't be getting an error message. If they are hyper flashing, you have a wiring problem and likely an incorrect sized resistor/diode, or incorrectly connected

Flash to pass: Your line of code for flash to pass, being the low beam (outers), at a brighter level should be working, or you have a wiring problem
bi_xenon_bei_lh >aktiv. That is the correct setting for LCI headlights.

So the only help I can give is the front turns error/bulb checking. Anything else causing an issue is a wiring problem or incorrectly sized resistor/diode combo.

I assume you have your LM(1) back in, which as you know has limited capability than the LM2 has.

Not sure what your reference to the SMC module was all about. SMC is the Stepper Motor Controller for adaptive headlights. If the headlights are not moving as they should, its likely an incorrect ZUSB (winkfp) as a result of your swap, or a wiring issue as well. Or just try a blank.man file to the left and right independently (It's OK to write a blank man file to these modules)

Thats about all I can offer as assistance

Disclaimer: You are on your own with any changes you make. This post is being offered as advice only. The magnitude of changes made via previous posts cannot guarantee results you desire. Just letting you know...
 
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